Training. See Training.
Planting. The best time to plant is as soon as most of the leaves have fallen, which is generally about the end of October. The roots being then in an active state, and the ground still retaining a certain amount of heat, they will form new roots before winter, which is a material advantage. Where it is impossible to plant at this time, it may be done in suitable weather any time during the winter, but it is best not deferred till spring. It is important in planting that the soil should be moderately dry and free from frost; this condition cannot always be obtained during winter. The effects of soil and situation have a very important bearing on the Apple, specimens of the same sort from different places being often hardly recognisable. Although not over fastidious in the matter of soil as far as growing is concerned, the best results are obtained where it is of a rich loamy character and well drained. Dry, sandy soils invariably produce canker, while the trees are often overgrown with lichens in undrained land. The addition of heavier loam, or sometimes trenching and mixing the sub-soil with that at the top, will convert light soils into those suitable for Apple culture; while, on the other hand, heavy soils may be improved by drainage, the addition of lime, vegetable refuse, burnt earth, and other matters. Rank manure should on no account be used anywhere near the roots, but a little well-decayed manure, mixed with the soil or used as a mulching, is beneficial. The site best suited is an open, though not exposed one, with a south, south-east, or south-west aspect. Shelter from north-east winds in spring, which destroys the bloom, and from west and south-west winds in autumn, which blow down the fruit, should be the aim of cultivators. Planting in a valley should be avoided on account of spring frosts. In Planting, care must be taken to make the bottom of the hole tolerably firm, and slightly raised under the base or bole of the tree. The roots should then be carefully spread out all round, and if any have been ruptured in transplanting, cut them clean off on the upper side, thus inducing new roots to be formed near the surface. The soil should be trodden firmly after a quantity has been filled in, if it is in a dry, suitable condition, as previously recommended. Secure with stakes in proportion to the size of tree, or injury will be caused by the wind. The distance at which Apple trees are planted varies considerably. Standards in orchards may be planted in good soil, from 20ft. to 40ft. apart, especially if they are strong-growing culinary sorts. Pyramids may be planted from 5ft. to 15ft., according to size; and similar distances will suit Bush trees. The oblique Cordon system of training admits of a large number of varieties being cultivated in a small space, as they may be planted as close as 18in. or 2ft. apart. Horizontal Cordons should be planted about 5ft. asunder, and one branch trained each way. Watering will be necessary after planting in most cases, especially should the winter and following season be at all dry. Thinning the fruit is sometimes advisable for obtaining good specimens, but it is not generally necessary, at least with many of the shy-setting sorts. If, however, the crop should be exceptionally heavy, it is best to thin the fruit, or the tree may be unable to make and ripen its wood for the crop of the succeeding year.
Gathering. The three following tests are sure indications of the gathering period: (1) The apples will begin to fall of their own accord; (2) their seeds will be plump and brown in colour; and (3) the fruit will separate with a mere touch from the trees; the second test may be said to be infallible. All Apples should be gathered before the end of October, for none will bear frost with impunity. They must be gathered in dry weather, and handled with the greatest care, laid gently in baskets and trays, in single file only, and conveyed to the store room.
Storing. The simplest and best method is in choosing or forming some room or place free from extremes of heat and cold, dryness or damp, where a temperature of about 45deg. is maintained. A current of air is not necessary. The shelves should be made of poplar, sycamore, lime, or other white wood. Deal, oak, ash, elm, and almost all other woods, give a bad taste to the fruit. One sheet of paper—and paper only—should be placed under the fruit. They ripen best, and are of the highest flavour when left fully exposed to the free atmosphere of the fruit room, and in order to preserve a more even temperature the light should be shut out. Early and late ripening varieties must be stored in separate places, as well as all inferior or injured fruit. The plan of isolating each fruit by packing in tissue paper, sand, burnt earth, or other substances, often destroys the flavour of the fruit, and possesses no material benefit otherwise.
Diseases. [Apple Mussel Scale], [Apple or Codlin Grub], [Canker], Mildew, [American Blight], Scale, and Insect Pests, such as Caterpillars, Maggots, and Weevils, see under their separate headings.
The following are some of the best varieties in cultivation:—
Adams' Pearmain. Dessert. Fruit medium, very handsome; flavour juicy and sugary. December to March.
Alexander. Kitchen. Very large, showy, and good. September to December.
Alfriston. Kitchen. Very fine, large, white flesh. November to April.
Ashmead's Kernel, or Cockle Pippin. Dessert. Fruit below medium; flavour very rich and sugary. This variety is, according to Mr. Rivers, much esteemed in Gloucestershire. November to January.
Bedfordshire Foundling. Kitchen. Fruit large. One of the finest and most useful sorts, a great bearer. February to May.
Bess Pool. Kitchen. Fruit large. Good late cooking apple. December to May.
Betty Geeson. Kitchen. Fruit large, produced in great abundance. February to May. A valuable sort.
Blenheim Pippin. One of the best kitchen sorts. November to February.
Boston Russet. Dessert. Fruit medium; flavour very sugary and rich, similar to the Ribston Pippin. An excellent American variety. January to May.
Brabant Bellefleur. Kitchen. Fruit large, round, pale yellow, red-streaked. A most useful cooking variety, also useful for dessert. November to April.
FIG. 123. APPLE, CALVILLE BLANCHE.
Calville Blanche. Dessert. Fruit large; flavour first-class. October to December. See Fig. 123.
Cellini. Kitchen. Fruit perfect in form, size, colour, and quality. October to January.
Claygate Pearmain. Dessert. Fruit medium; flavour rich, aromatic, excellent, same as Ribston Pippin. January to May.
Coe's Golden Drop. Dessert. Fruit small, with a crisp and juicy flavour. November to January. A delicious variety.
Cornish Aromatic. Dessert. Fruit medium; flavour rich, juicy, and aromatic. October to December.
Cornish Gillyflower. Dessert. Fruit medium; flavour very rich, quite aromatic. October, November to January. An excellent variety, thriving best in a warm situation.
Court of Wick. Dessert. Fruit medium, very handsome; flavour somewhat similar to Golden Pippin. December to March.