ASKALLON (the Eschallot). See [Allium ascalonicum.]
ASPALATHUS (from a, not, and spao, to extract; in reference to the difficulty of extracting its thorns from a wound). Including Sarcophyllus. ORD. Leguminosæ. Shrubs or sub-shrubs, natives, with one exception, of the Cape of Good Hope. Flowers usually yellow, furnished with three bracteoles, or a leaf comprised of three leaflets. Leaves of three to five leaflets, disposed palmately, rarely pinnately, having scarcely any or very short petioles. All the species are pretty when in flower, and thrive in a mixture of loam, peat, and sand. Young cuttings of half-ripened wood will strike in April, in sand, under bell glasses, which must be wiped dry occasionally. But little water is needed. Over a hundred species are known; those introduced are very rarely seen in cultivation.
ASPARAGUS (from a, intensive, and sparasso, to tear; in reference to the strong prickles of some species). ORD. Liliaceæ. Erect or climbing herbs or shrubs, with very small scale-like leaves, and a profusion of numerous slender fascicled-needle, rather spiny branchlets. Flowers axillary, inconspicuous. Fruit baccate. The indoor species will all thrive well in a warm greenhouse temperature, provided they have partial shade, a good supply of moisture at the roots, and are not kept too close, in a moderately rich sandy compost. The hardy species are propagated chiefly by seeds and divisions of the roots. Rich sandy loam is necessary, and otherwise they may be treated as ordinary perennials. Some of the species belonging to this genus are among the most elegant of foliage plants for cutting purposes. A. decumbens and A. scandens make excellent plants for Wardian cases, and may be cut in freely if they exceed their limits.
ASPARAGUS (A. officinalis) AS A VEGETABLE. The value and importance of this plant as a vegetable cannot be over-estimated; it is extensively grown, and, when properly managed, produces a fairly lucrative crop.
Soil and Bed. The first thing to be done in the preparation of an Asparagus bed to stand for any length of time, is to secure an efficient drainage; and on wet soils this is best effected by placing a layer of brick rubbish over the whole of the bottom, and connecting this with a drain. On gravelly or other soils which are drained naturally, of course, this is not needed; but if really good crops are a desideratum, water should not stand within 3ft. of the surface. In all cases, the ground must be dug to a depth of 18in., and, if stiff, a goodly amount of road sweepings, or other gritty materials, should be well mixed with the staple soil. Asparagus requires a good soil, neither too heavy nor too light.
Manuring. After the soil has been well trenched, and has lain long enough to settle down, a good dressing of manure—thoroughly rotted, and not too rank, at the rate of from twenty to thirty tons to the acre, dug into the surface of the beds—will be found very beneficial. If possible, this should be introduced in January; and then, if the weather permits, the beds should be forked two or three times by the end of March, so as to render the soil as friable as possible. A very good manure, and one that is easily obtained, is common garden salt. This may be given annually to established beds. A moderate dressing should be applied just before growth commences in spring, but a little will do no harm at other times during the summer. It is best scattered on with the hand, and a showery day should be selected, as it will then soon disappear. Salt, besides acting as a manure, has also the properties of keeping the beds cool and moist in hot weather, and of preventing the growth of weeds.
Planting. Asparagus can be planted during March and April, the latter month being the best time for the work. The soil having been thoroughly prepared, the next point is to decide on the size of the beds; this depends on the size of garden, and the class of "grass" desired. When very large and fine stocks are the object in view, the best results will accrue if the plants are fully a yard apart each way; but this means a comparatively small crop. A good plan is to make the beds 3ft. wide, planting two rows, at a distance of 1ft. from each other, and allowing 18in. between each plant, placing them in alternate order. An 18in. alley should be allowed between the beds. The roots used for making the beds should be one year old, and fresh from the ground. In planting, pull out a wide drill with a hoe, or other tool, to the depth of about 3in. or 4in., and spread out the roots all round. Carefully shake the soil in amongst the roots, and, if dry, apply some water through a coarse-rosed watering pot, to settle the earth around them. At intervals, as necessary, give other waterings till September, when they should be discontinued. At all times, keep the beds free from weeds, removing them by the hand to prevent injury to the crowns of the plants. If the ground is good, no liquid manure will be needed the first year. As soon as the foliage turns yellow, cut it off, cleanly rake over the beds, and leave till about January, when a top-dressing of from 1in. to 3in. of thoroughly rotted manure may be applied with advantage. At the end of February, rake off the bed all loose straw or other debris, and throw on them a little of the soil from the alleys, raking down, and finishing off the edges squarely and neatly. During this and succeeding years, apply liquid manure and clear water, from time to time, as required; and, provided the manure is not of too great strength, there is scarcely any limit to its application; but, in many instances, beds which have only received an annual dressing have given a good return. Each year they must be cut over and dressed as before described, but care must be taken to keep them flat on the surface, otherwise the plants will die out for want of moisture. When the produce appears, the beds should be kept cut over until the 20th of June, after which, cutting should cease, or they will be rendered comparatively unproductive. Cutting can commence the second or third year, or as soon as there is any "grass" worth taking. Several methods of growing these plants could be cited, but that which we have recommended will be found most satisfactory.
FIG. 160. ASPARAGUS, Crown for Lifting.
Seeds. Plants are raised by sowing seeds in rows across the kitchen garden, or selected quarter, about the month of April. The seedlings make a growth, and form good plants during the first season. In March or April of the following year, or the year after, they may be removed, and planted out permanently, as already alluded to. Many cultivators prefer growing their own plants from seed; because during the transit of the roots from any distance to where they are to be grown, a frequent and injurious exhaustion takes place, and particularly so when they are carelessly packed.