Rare varieties of ornamental deciduous trees are largely propagated in this way; for instance, many of the Acers, Elms, Horse Chestnuts, &c. Evergreen shrubs, such as Rhododendrons and Hollies, are also rapidly increased in some establishments by this means.
In the case of fruit-frees, plump wood Buds must be selected, from medium-sized branches. On some sorts these are scarce, the majority being Flower-buds, and it is rather difficult to distinguish between them at the Budding season. The best time for the operation is from June to the end of August; but surrounding influences, condition of Buds, stocks, &c., must be taken into account. Clean cuts, with gentle and skilful handling, are even more important in the Budding of stone fruits than of Roses or other plants, and the ties should be lightly but firmly made. In all cases, the operation must be performed as quickly as possible, as both Bud and bark are injured if exposed to the air for any length of time.
FIG. 287. FIG. 288.
To proceed with the ordinary system of Shield-budding, the stock (see Fig. 287 a) should first have a longitudinal and a transverse incision made in the bark, the former about 1in. long. Next, the Bud should be prepared, removing half the leaf (see Fig. 288). Hold the branch with the left hand, and pass the knife from about ½in. below, gradually upwards and inwards under the Bud, bringing it out in a similar way at a somewhat shorter distance above. A portion of wood will also be taken out, and this is generally removed the opposite way to that in which the Bud has been cut. By skilful Budders, it is removed by a sort of twitch from either end. Great care must be taken not to pull out the base or root of the Bud at the same time, as this would render it useless. Should the whole come out together, leaving a hollow place under the eye of the Bud, it must be thrown away, and another prepared. The Bud being ready, loosen the bark at the point where the incisions meet, with the ivory knife handle, and insert it by means of the piece of leaf attached. It must then be tied in with soft matting or bast, to exclude air, but not tight enough to injure the bark. Shading from bright sun is advisable for a few days afterwards, and, as soon as the union takes place, the ties must be frequently examined, and loosened if necessary. Some prefer Budding late in the season, in order that the Bud may remain dormant during the winter, and breaking stronger the following spring. Occasionally, they are inserted in spring, just at the commencement of growth. The stocks of the Summer-budded trees should only be allowed a moderate amount of foliage during the autumn, and should be cut back to the established Bud before growth commences in spring.
Square and Circular Shield-budding consists in cutting out a piece of bark of either shape from the stock, and inserting another piece of exactly the same size, containing a Bud, and covering with a bandage, or piece of sticking plaster, all except the eye. This mode is seldom made use of. Inverted T or Shield-budding is preferred in the south of France for propagating Orange-trees, but is not otherwise much used. The only difference is that the transverse incision is made below, instead of above, the other, and the Bud inserted upwards, making it fit with the bark at the point where the stock is cut across.
FIG. 289.
Flute-budding is sometimes used, and answers well for some trees (see Fig. 289). A cylinder of bark is removed from the stock, and one of a similar size from the scion. containing Buds, is fitted in its place, being carefully made air-tight by means of a bandage or grafting wax. Some prefer splitting the hark, as shown in the illustration. and laying it over the tube or cylinder; but the parts cannot be fitted so well as when it is removed.
Ring Budding. By this mode, it is not necessary to cut off the top of the stock. A ring of bark may be removed from any convenient part (see Fig. 290 b) and replaced with one containing eyes (see Fig. 290 a). The latter should be taken from a little larger branch than the stock, as the bark could then be made to fit better. As in Flute-budding, air must be excluded by means of adhesive paper and bandages or grafting wax.