French braid, whether made of linen or of cotton, is laid on the pattern with stitches taken across it, from one edge to the other. This mode of putting on braid prevents it from stretching, as, from the nature of the plait, it would otherwise do. In forming angles, each edge should be sewn down to the paper, and then the braid turned over. Circles are made by laying the braid on the design, and forming it into the proper shape with the fingers, before tacking it down.
We give a diagram showing the manner in which lines of braid cross and intersect each other, to form the pattern; and we would observe, en passant, that each line is done with a separate piece of braid, that from A to B being one piece, and from C to D another.
Italian braid, being so much wider, requires to be tacked down at both edges; and in forming circles and scrolls, one edge has, not unfrequently, to be gathered in slightly. When thread is used as an outline, a second, and much finer thread is used to tack it down. The coarse thread is laid on the outlines, and the needle is brought up on one side of it, and down, in the same hole, on the other. The stitches are taken at the rate of five or six to an inch, one being always placed at the point of each angle, so as to keep the outlines as accurate as possible. To fasten on a thread, run the needle along the braid a little way, taking a button-hole stitch to secure it. Fasten off in the same manner. If the outlines are in thread, you can twist the needle round it two or three times, and then take a tight button-hole stitch.
The chief stitch in all Point Lace is that known as the common button-hole or overcast stitch. This stitch, worked as closely as possible, or at regular intervals, drawn tightly, or the reverse, forms almost all the stitches, or more properly laces, used. We will begin by describing the simplest of all, which is known as
BRUSSELS EDGE
BRUSSELS EDGE (No. 1). This is a continuous line of button-hole stitches, not drawn tightly, and taken at equal distances of about the fourteenth part of an inch. When worked on braid, care should be taken that the needle is inserted at a little distance from the edge of the braid, which would otherwise be apt to fray.
LITTLE VENETIAN EDGING (No. 2). In working this stitch, do one Brussels, and in the loop of that work a tight stitch.
VENETIAN EDGING (No. 3). Do four stitches instead of one in the loop of the Brussels stitch.
SORRENTO EDGING (No. 4). Do a stitch exactly like little Venetian, the eighth of an inch long, and then one-half that length in the same manner. Continue to work these alternately.