Before proceeding with our relation, it will not be out of place to tell our readers, although in few words, something about the island of Luzòn and the city of Manila, as it is the metropolis of the kingdoms that the crown of Castilla has there. It was given that name, then, since the Spaniards have owned it, from a chief village so named, distant two leguas from Manavilis, which is corruptly called Marivelez. It was also called Nueva Castilla. It is the largest island in the Philippinas, and extends farthest north of all those islands. It is the most populous in nations and tribes, who exceed the others, both in bravery and in the light of reason, with well-known advantages. Its least altitude is scant thirteen degrees, and its greatest ten or nine and one-half. Its circuit, without taking into account certain bays, comprehends four hundred and twelve leguas. Those who make it three hundred are in error, for they do not consider its position. It is all very fertile, and has many large rivers, that of Cagayan or Nueva Segovia being more swollen than the others. They are all navigable, more or less. Ships enter that of Manila at full tide with one-half their cargo, but the galleys enter it generally without any trouble. It furnishes a location for the aforesaid city, on a certain very pleasant and beautiful site on the shores of the sea. It is a point made by the Pasig River in sight of the bay. That bay is affirmed to be one of the largest and best that men can see in all the world, for it is thirty leguas in circumference, and has an island of six miles at its mouth, where a sentinel is always stationed. It sustains more than one hundred thousand persons daily with fish, counting the Sangleys and Japanese, and the villages that are settled on its shores. When Adelantado Miguel Lopez de Legaspi took it by force of arms, May nineteen, one thousand five hundred and seventy, ten thousand houses beautified it, and it was the court of the king, Ladya [sic] Solìmàn, a follower in part of the religion of Mahomet. The same general rebuilt the city, and left it its former name of Manila—also the proper name of the island—in the following year of seventy-one. He made it the capital of the rest of the archipelago, as it was very suitable for the concourse and commerce of China. Its streets are pleasant and spacious, and without crossways or turns; for they are all straight, and have beautiful buildings of stone, which vie with those of España that are considered well made. It is strong by art and by nature, because of the many creeks and swamps that surround it, together with the great wall of stone built according to the style of the moderns, with not a few ramparts. It is well defended with artillery, and has an excellent and important fortress, supplied with all that is necessary, even as the most noted forts that are renowned in Europa. Finally, it is now the finest and richest city of all those of its class that are known in the world. It enjoys a cathedral with its archbishop, a royal Chancillerìa, a presidio with numerous soldiers, and in short, all the products that the regions of the Orient yield for the pleasure, health, and comfort of this life, without having to envy anyone for anything. That city alone makes the name of España very glorious and formidable there; and what is more, it is that city which maintains the Catholic religion in those very remote and out-of-the-way hemispheres.

Writing this brief relation in order to give a beginning to the entrance of Ours, we shall go after them immediately, and shall find them safe at the gates of Manila, after a journey of four thousand eight hundred leguas by the course that they pursued from España. That country was then very joyful over the good news of the success that their governor, Don Pedro de Acuña, had had in the capture of Terrenàte, one of the enviable islands of Malùco. They were sheltered in a small house, until they found better accommodations; and although the whole city, upon hearing of their arrival, came in throngs to visit them and offer them more suitable lodging, as also did the holy orders already settled there, with singular affection, they refused to accept it—except the infirmary, which they consented to take for some [sick men], in the convent of the most exemplary Dominican fathers, who immediately gave it with the greatest charity. At this juncture the victorious governor arrived, and amid all his victories and triumphs, as soon as he heard of Ours, he went to visit them and to regale them, as he was so Catholic and devout a gentleman. Time was wanting to present the royal despatches to him, for while he was in the height of his glories, sudden death assaulted him, brought him to his feet, and cast him into the gloom of a sepulcher. For that reason the recognition of the decrees and orders was suspended for some time. But at last, having been examined and ordered by the royal Audiencia and other officials to be observed, permission was freely given to father Fray Joan de San Geronimo to erect the establishments that he wished.

Foundation of the first convent of Manila

The announcement made by father Fray Andres de San Nicolas while on his deathbed to his brethren was fulfilled without any failure—namely, that they should not despair, for divine Providence was already arranging a house for them, which would give great pleasure to all. The fact was that, in verification of his words, on the same day on which the despatches for their voyage were made in España, the deceased governor began to build a very fine summer-house, which had its garden and its ponds, in a site called Bagunbaìàn, only three hundred paces from the walls. It was just being finished when he returned from his conquest, and when he ended the pleasures and joys of this life. The retreat and pleasantness of this place were very welcome to Ours; consequently they tried to buy it, and did so—having collected the alms in two afternoons. During that time two religious went through the city, accompanied by certain influential persons, [and collected] more than three thousand pesos, with which they paid the sum asked, a great portion of what they should have given having been forgiven to them. Accordingly, they immediately took possession of their convent on the day of St. Nicolàs de Tolentino, to whom they dedicated it by a special vow, which all took at the beginning of their navigation from the shores and coasts of España. Under such good horoscope was born the happy province of the Philipinas Islands. And thus we should not wonder at the great luster that it has cast, shedding its rays by its zeal through the darkest and most forgotten districts, where a notable number of pagans, who were living like wild beasts in a blind barbarism, received the truth of the faith which we profess.

The apostolic men first settled the firm foundation of their house—not in the material of it but in the direction of their solid virtues. They lived in the greatest poverty and contempt of [earthly] things, without other end than the seeking of God in prayer, and in making Him known and loved in their talks and examples. There was some opposition on the part of our calced fathers in regard to the title that they gave to the new church, that of the miraculous Father San Nicolàs de Tolentino; for his devotion was practiced in a chapel of the principal convent and was very popular, and they thought that it would be lessened or be done away with altogether. Ours, being so good men, disapproved greatly of litigation; and, although with great grief, they talked of consenting to change the title, commending the matter to our Lord very earnestly, with the intervention of peculiar penances and exercises. The matter was left to be decided by lot, in which many saints took part, not excluding their own dear one. He, then, was chosen, the first, second, and third time; and the will of God was thus made plain. Not only did they confirm what was already done, but they also placed under his protection the province which was now in its beginning, and gave it his name. In accordance with this a very solemn feast was made, that venerable prelate and bishop of bishops Don Fray Pedro de Agurto saying the first mass. He had come to Manila from Zibù to be the rainbow [Iris] that announced peace and true brotherhood to calced and discalced, whom we ought to hold as sons of a good father. Father Fray Pedro Solier—a chosen shoot of the convent of Salamanca, and afterward provincial of those islands, bishop of Puerto Rico, and lastly archbishop of Santo Domingo and primate of the Indias—preached in glowing terms in praise of the Reform, in the presence of the royal Audiencia, the ecclesiastical and secular cabildos, the orders, the nobility, and all the people of Manila—who from that time made greater progress in the veneration and worship of that saint. The good-will that the city began to have for the new evangelical ministers was vast. Consequently, the city desired to shelter them within the girdle of its walls, on noting the discomfort that they were suffering; and that was done by moving the convent of San Nicolas, as we shall see.

It seemed hard for the religious to leave their first foundation, not so much for the material of the house as for the service that they were performing for our Lord in that suburb, in administering the holy sacraments to the not few persons who were living there. Those people, especially at night, were deprived of spiritual aid, for it was necessary that the gates of the city be tightly shut and the necessary guards posted. It was a true inspiration from heaven not to abandon that convent (now that of San Joan Baptista), since—as was within a very short time made evident, through the care and presence of Ours—so great a number of Christians came so frequently from all parts to confession and to holy communion that four ministers daily have not been sufficient. They numbered some Spaniards and many negroes, both free and slave, and more Indians of different nations, who came to seek in that refuge relief from their sins and failings. They found that convent always open day and night and the religious ever ready to give them the health and life of their souls. After several years the province determined that that house should be made a college, and accordingly that was carried out. The arts and theology were studied there, for, although instruction and piety join hands, it was not advisable that the college and the house be in one place. In that place rest three incorruptible bodies of the first founders, and no one knows who they are. All are surprised that they can remain so well preserved in a country so damp and hot, and it is regarded by all as a miracle. That college, besides the aforesaid, possessed a great treasure in the image of our Lady of Health. On bringing it from Mexico, that image gave proofs of her favors not a few times on the sea, and perfecting and increasing them in the islands through her mercy. Her installation was celebrated with great pomp and ostentation in the presence of the royal Audiencia and the city, which made very Catholic and pious demonstrations in the feast. The church was filled in a short time with vows and memorials which the faithful offered. A brotherhood was founded under the title of Transito de Nuestra Señora [i.e., “Transit of our Lady”], whose chief procession may be seen and is solemnized on the third Friday of Lent, with the greatest ostentation and display that one could express in writing or in speech. The members of the confraternity march clad in very neat white tunics with blue escapulars, bearing the attributes of the queen of the skies on pendants of the same color and embroidered at a great cost—with a numerous accompaniment of children dressed as angels, who at intervals march along singing praises to the Virgin. It is not an easy task to count the large tapers and lighted candles; for, as is said, it is one of the best functions that are seen in the Philippinas. Then follows the bed of the always glorious and most pure Virgin, which the most devout and most noble women adorn with the wealth of the city. The bed is surrounded with a group of children, also dressed as angels, which is a cause for surprise every year. Lastly, go about one thousand bleeding penitents; and there many votive images, which move innumerable persons to compunction, who come from the neighboring provinces to enjoy that day without fear of any trouble. Thus has the fitting reverence of that image increased until it is one of the greatest in the Philippinas; as has been experienced on various occasions, especially when they put it within the city (for fear of the Sangleys who revolted) in order to make a novena, in which took part the royal Chancillería, the archbishop, and the cabildos, for the health of the Catholic army which was very sick. From that prayer resulted not only the attaining of the convalescence of the soldiers, but also the peace and quiet that was sought. That college suffered a great blow in the time of a certain governor, whose name, in order not to cast infamy on him purposely, we suppress. He, under pretext that its building was a great obstacle to the wall, rigidly made them demolish it, driving our religious thence, contrary to justice and the permission of the city and cabildo; they opposed him until they could do no more, as they saw that he did that, being desirous of not conducting himself well, for it is said that such was his custom. But when the end of his office came, the church and cabildo brought suit for the injury received from that illegal act; and they sentenced him to twenty-five thousand pesos, notwithstanding that it is said that the damage exceeded fifty. Thereupon the college was rebuilt, and the image again placed there.

Preaching of Ours in the province of Zambales and of Tugui

Eagerly had the apostolic men left España in search of misguided and lost souls whom they might lead to the knowledge of God and into the flock of His Church. When once they had set foot on the destined land they could not be kept from turning their eyes and their desire to all parts. The first task was to learn some one of the many languages which are spoken among so many and so barbarous nations, in order to have the means to convert the people that should happen to fall to their lot. Accordingly, after well considering the matter, they determined to study Tagál, as it was the most general tongue, and the one that was talked as native in Manila and its environs. All immediately applied themselves to one language with no little desire and diligence. He who learned it first was father Fray Miguel de Santa Maria, who was called Bombàu. Discussing with him in what part it would be better to begin their missions, they thought that it was not advisable to go far from Manila, since they were so few. At that juncture a very good opportunity came to their hands in the shape of a village quite near by, now called Marivelez.[11] Its inhabitants had no ministers, no one of them wishing, although many were at its very doors, to abide in it—both because of the insalubrious climate of its location, and because of the bad disposition of the Indians, who were like brutes in their intercourse and in their customs. The vicar-provincial stumbled over none of these obstacles, because of his firm zeal. Accordingly, he sent the said father, Fray Miguel de Santa Maria, accompanied by father Fray Pedro de San Joseph—who, although of the Observance, had discalced himself—together with a lay-brother, named Fray Francisco de Santa Monica, who also went with both of the former, all of them being skilled in the aforesaid language. They invoked in common the grace of the Holy Spirit, and, after a fervent prayer, they took their farewells—these anxious to accomplish their desires, and the others sick at heart at seeing themselves left behind them. They were not long in arriving at the lairs of the wild beasts, who lived eight leguas from Manila, and were desirous to subdue and soften them, together with the rest of the coast of Zambàles and of Tugui, which extends for a little more than thirty leguas to Bolinào.

The customs and ceremonies of those people must be touched upon briefly, not so much for the diversion that they may afford as that we may certify to the labor of Ours in changing them according to law and reason, and putting them into a suitable condition. The worship with which they then reverenced their false deities they were wont to perform not in the villages, but outside them in the mountains, or the part nearest to their fields. They had certain little houses there like chapels, in which they all assembled. But that did not prevent them from having gods—penates, or idols, which they called anìtos. The priesthood was exercised by certain old men, ceremonious in the extreme, and not less by old women called catalònas—witches, superstitious creatures, diviners, and casters of lots—who were esteemed and so thoroughly believed that whatever they said, although lies, was taken as an infallible oracle. The manner of their sacrifices (which they called by the name maganìtos), on meeting to make them in the place that we have spoken of above, was none other than that, having prepared an unclean animal, very well grown—or for lack of it, a large cock—they offered it to the devil by means of one of those witches, with peculiar and curious ceremonies. For, dancing to the sound of a bell, she took in her hands a small idol, made to imitate the form in which the father of deceit was wont to appear to them at times; it was of human form, with very ugly features, and a long beard. She spoke certain words to it, invoking its presence, whereupon the iniquitous spirit came, and entered into her miserable body in order to dictate to her the deceits that are its custom in such acts. After having declared their false notions to those present, they ate the animal or bird, and they drank to intoxication, whereupon the wicked sacrifice was brought to an end. Besides that adoration which they gave to the devil, they revered several false gods—one, in especial, called bathala mey capal, whose false genealogies and fabulous deeds they celebrated in certain tunes and verses like hymns. Their whole religion was based on those songs, and they were passed on from generation to generation, and were sung in their feasts and most solemn assemblies. Those who were ignorant of the teachings of Mahomet adored not less the sun, the moon, the rainbow, birds, and animals—but especially the cayman or crocodile; a blue bird closely resembling the thrush; the crow; rocks placed on the shores of the sea, and those that they see in the sea, such as sunken rocks and shoals.[12]

Their ancestors also enjoyed that worship, and more especially those who had been famous in arms, and in the virtues native to their mode of belief; and they believed that reward was the lot of the good, and punishment that of the wicked. From this arose among them the knowledge of the immortality of the soul. Accordingly, when anyone died, they bathed the body and buried it with benzoin, storax, and other aromatic substances, and clothed it then in the best of its possessions. Before burying the body, they bewailed it for the space of three days. They anointed the bodies of those of high rank with certain confections, which kept it from corruption better than do our unguents of Europa. They did not bury them except in the lower part of their houses, having placed and deposited them in a coffin of incorruptible wood. They placed some bits of gold in the mouth, and on the body the best jewels that they had. To that preparation they added a box of clothing, which they placed near them, and every day they carried them food and drink. They did not take especial pains that, if the dead had possessed more property, everything should be left to him; but slaves, both men and women, were presented to them to serve them in the other life (which they no doubt imagined to be similar to the present life). The custom that they observed with those slaves was, to behead them immediately after having fed them sumptuously, so that they might not fail the service and company of such influential men, since the latter needed them, as they said. In confirmation of that, it happened that, on the death of a chief of that race, they killed all the sailors necessary for a boat’s crew, in order that servants, and rowers befitting his station might not be lacking to him in the life that they ignorantly imagined for such a person. After the conclusion of those honors, they gave themselves up to extensive revelry and feasting, which they interspersed with their mourning, observing a notable silence in the nearest houses and in the streets. No one worked, just as during a festal occasion; nor did he have to navigate under any consideration. He who opposed the aforesaid usage did not escape death, which was inflicted on him with rigor and without recourse.