2. The archipelago of Calamianes consists of an infinity and indeterminate number of islands, large and small, and most of them very fertile.[13] Those best known and best supplied with the products of commerce which might make them rich are [here] set down. But their lack of attention [to these products] reduces the natives to a wretched and unhappy state. The first island, and that which is first encountered from the course of Mindoro, about fifty leguas across from Luban, is Calamian the great, which gives name to the whole province. It is commonly called Busuagan, taking that name from a principal village or settlement. It is a large and pleasant island in the form of an oblong, eight long leguas in length and about four wide. Its rivers are of great volume; there are sufficient mountains; and from that nature [of the land], there is an abundant yield of wax of superior quality, which is produced naturally, and without [human] labor, by the vast multitude of industrious bees. The only work in it is the gathering of the honeycomb in its season (which is very securely fastened in the large, high, and leafy branches of the trees), by the sole effort of making fires with thick smoke, which compels those little animals, which defend their property at the cost of their lives, to flee in confusion.

3. A more profitable product is the nest made by certain small black birds, which are mistakenly called swallows. The material of which the nest is made, in order to lay and hatch their eggs, is yet unknown. It is regarded as sure that its manufacture takes place in the breast or crop, whence issues a long filament. Those filaments stick together because of their viscous nature, and at their extremities adhere to the rock. Those nests are usually located in very overhanging and rough places, in such a way that the continual rains do not unfasten or destroy them, although the birds always endeavor to place them under shelter. The shape of the nest is similar to that of the regular swallow, although smaller. It is known that that filament is produced with difficulty. It is like fine vermicelli, which is sometimes accompanied with drops of blood. It is white and somewhat transparent, like ice. It is prepared in various ways, but a soup resembling that of vermicelli, but of better taste, and incomparably more nourishing, is made with the broth from a substantial olio, or stew. It is very useful for those who suffer from evacuations and dysentery; it corrects those ailments and is good as a mild and dissolvent food. The Chinese esteem it highly, and generally pay, according to its scarcity or abundance, eight, nine, and sixteen pesos per cate, which contains twenty-one onzas. They are very difficult to gather, for the birds always build them in craggy locations, in whose tortuous and precipitous caverns they are only obtained by descending a rope. Some are obtained by climbing up bamboos, finding a rest for the feet on the knots, which are left with large projections for that purpose. So dangerous evolutions cost even broken arms and legs, and sometimes even cause death. The taking of the nests is repeated three times during the calm months of the year. The latter part of December, those to whom are assigned crags—in which it is not right for one to meddle with those of another, a rule that is observed with much fidelity—go out. They gather the old nests, which are sufficiently blackened by the preceding rains; however, they do not lose much of their nourishment. Thus do they force the little bird to make a new nest, as it cannot make use of the old one for breeding. As the desire to breed is excited by its nature, the industrious little bird strives to build its nest before breeding. All the month of January is spent in its costly labors. The destroyers come and tear them down. Sometimes they are found with eggs, and sometimes even imperfect; but nothing restrains their greed, and they tear down all indifferently. The disconsolate birds again begin to build their nest, and at the end of February or the beginning of March the Indians repeat their robbery. The saddened bird, forced to build its shelter at the behest of nature in the multiplication of the species repeats its anxious labors. Either because there is not enough material for so many labors, or because the season has passed in their periods, the bird does not possess the same inclination in its formation; the nest is finished later, and is less juicy, as experience has shown, for at that time the rainy season generally sets in. That, and the Moros who infest these seas cause the harvest of nests involuntarily to be abandoned. However, if the above circumstances do not prevent, the third excursion is not lacking. All the crags are not accessible, and where those furtive assaults cannot be made, the number of those industrious little birds is prodigious.”[14]

4. The beaches are protracted into very extensive shoals and reefs. There the excellent balate is very abundant. This is a shellfish,[15] which when cooked and dried in the smoke is preserved dry. This product is highly relished by the Chinese or Sangleys. They lade as much as possible into their boats, paying thirty and even thirty-eight pesos per pico (which is equivalent to five arrobas twelve and one-half libras), according to the season. The flesh is very wholesome, and tastes like shrimp. The fisheries of fine-shelled turtles are also abundant, and they also form a conspicuous product. Some of the shells have markings as deep red as a fine garnet; and the four principal shells are of an extraordinary size. From the shells are made very neat boxes, trays, and other pretty things. They are given a jasper finish, which makes their colors shine out strongly. The island has abundance of deer, wild boars, and wild hogs, and monkeys and birds of singular rarity. There are many pagans of good appearance and better disposition. The frequent raids of the Moros hold that most fertile island in the greatest abandonment. A narrow channel separates the island of Coron[16] from it. The latter is a rocky crag about three leguas in circumference. The only entrance to it is by a narrow tongue of land, which forms, as it were, a small port. But it is so easy of defense that a few men can prevent any entrance there without danger. Because of the strength and independence of its location many natives of savage inclination, and most warlike, live there. Calamian the little follows, where the capital is at present located.[17] There is a fort there, well armed. The men in their capacity as soldiers, with their corresponding officers, defend from the natives. It is also fertile in the same products, although less abundantly than Calamian the great, but it is so overrun with rats or moles that no seed plant can live, for they destroy everything. The natives are forced to engage in the trade of jars and salt, although they are much interested in the nest business, and in that of wax; the one being their own occupation and the other the exchange.

5. Passing without comment other innumerable islands, comes the famous one of Paragua,[18] about eighty leguas long and from ten to twenty in its greatest width. It is a rich and fertile island. Besides the common articles of commerce, such as wax (of which the harvest is more abundant than in any other district), nests, fine shell, and balate, it has various fisheries for fine pearls of beautiful luster, some of them found at a depth of three or four brazas. Shells, or madres abiertas, of excellent mother-of-pearl, of various beautiful colors, are found on its coasts. The matrix-shell of these pearls has been seen of one and one-half ordinary palmos in length and almost one palmo in its narrowest part—whose pearl could not be obtained, because the valve opened on drawing it from the sea, and the sensitive fleshy part that contained the pearl fell into the water. According to its appearance, it must have contained pearls of many grains and carats in size. The island has various exquisite and useful woods which distil special gums. There is one which is an effective remedy for cancers; it is so powerful a caustic that it burns out the cancer even when it is deep, although the wounds caused by its burning are dangerous. However, those wounds have their suitable remedy. There is a quantity of nutmeg of two varieties—the long and the round. The latter is valued more because it is more fragrant. It is easily destroyed by grubs, because the precautions useful for its preservation are unknown. There are bejucos or Indian canes for walking-sticks, with their branches as much as five and one-half palmos long; they are of better luster and of greater toughness than are those gathered by the Dutch in the islands of the Sonda. I am sure that camphor would be found, if one looked for it, just as good as that of Borney; for the resemblance of Paragua’s productions to those of that great island is very marked, and the latter is not very far from its southern point.

6. There are but few quadrupeds[19] that are not found in the other islands: porcupines, armadillos, tezones, leopards, colcobos, and certain very beautiful foxes, but of the same species as the stink-foxes of Peru, and very pestilent. They come to the houses in their greed for fowls, among which they cause considerable havoc. But whether it is due to their urine or some other posterior evacuation, such is their stench that is necessary to abandon the house for a time, as it is unendurable. There are many and rare birds. Royal peacocks are very common; they are but slightly larger than a hen, though without any difference from the large peacocks of India in the vividness of their colors. Several efforts have been made to domesticate them, but in vain; they become greatly depressed, and soon die. There are nightingales that sing harmoniously near the coolness of the small streamlets, repeating their melodious trills, and gifted with most nimble throats. There are many varieties of parrots of brilliant colors; green, white, and vari-colored pigeons; squirrels or paniquesas, of several distinct species—some are white with a black ring which sets them off well; there are some with wings and some with membranes that facilitate their flight, although that is but short. It is known that the land is one continuous mineral district. Extensions of pure iron jut from the shores laid bare by the breaking of the waves, as rocky shoals. There are others of vitriol or verdigris, in very rich veins. It must be that the centers of the mountains are like this. The island abounds in exquisite and healthful waters, now in the springs, now in the large rivers—so many in number that sixty-seven are counted from Catbuli to the bay of Ypolote, on the side and coast of the east. Numerous tribes live there. In the roughest locations the Aetas or black Cimarrones are gathered. Along the rivers and level farm lands the natives are of a lighter complexion, and less ugly in feature. This island is peculiar in what we have already mentioned, namely, that earthquakes are not experienced there. But there are stormy clouds that emit vivid lightnings and terrifying thunder. But we have not heard that the fury of the thunderbolts is in those clouds, or results from them, for the inhabitants of Paragua have experienced none of those ravages. Consequently, they do not have any words or terms peculiar to their language, for these or for earthquakes, which is a very convincing proof....

7. The coasts, bays, and rivers of that large island abound plentifully in divers and savory fish. In the bay of Malampaya, opposite Taytay, in the same district as Manila, although with a clear and deep bottom, there are many islands, which beautify the bay with their foliage. A vast multitude of vicudas enter the great rivers at the spawning season—a fine cod-fish that differs in no wise from that of Terranova [i.e., Newfoundland], and when fresh they are of delicious taste. The Indians catch them (although with danger from the Moros), and without other appliances than certain hooks, and as many as they wish. For lack of salt, they smoke-dry them, which always leaves an unpleasant taste, and the fish spoil easily. Paragua has its own near-by islands scattered along its coast, some of which are inhabited by pigeons, various species of parrots, peacocks, and aquatic birds; others in which sailors get as many eggs and squabs, or the young of such birds, as they wish. The largest and most fertile [of these islands] is that of Dumaran, which is separated from Paragua by a narrow strait. It is a fertile island, in which there is a most abundant harvest of rice, which as a general rule yields more than a hundred-fold.

8. The island of Alutaya belongs to that province. It is a rocky and arid land. However, it has plenty of domestic and useful animals, [the rearing of which forms], the careful industry of its natives. It is about thirty leguas across the open sea from the islands of Calamianes. About six leguas away is the island of Cuyo, which is small, being about three leguas in circuit, and low, but very fertile. It contains whatever is fitting and desirable for the sustenance of human life. Its natives, being for the most part descendants of Sangleys, are industrious and shrewd in trade. In exchange for the edible and potable products of their island, and the textiles of Yloylo, and tobacco, they lade fine products in Calamianes, an exchange that causes anger to the alcaldes-mayor. The latter endeavor to prevent that trade, which injures their interests; but those people by their shrewdness deceive them easily, and frustrate the efforts of the alcaldes. The natives were on the whole very savage, and had even more barbarous customs and greater stupidity than the inhabitants of the other islands. They have a knowledge of herbs. In Paragua especially, there are some very poisonous ones. They use them to bewitch their fellows and deprive them of life. There is one of so uncommon deadliness, that if it be chewed in the mouth, and if the exhalations from it be directed in a gentle current toward any person whom it is wished to destroy, his life is quickly taken away. I heard that from some who have intercourse with the Negroes of Dapit, who know more about it and use it mere easily. The way to overcome those fatal effects is to carry the effective remedy with one—another herb or root. Thus the evil breath loses all its force, and the [aforesaid] herb or root is a sure antidote for its deadliness.

9. This Recollect province set itself to conquer those savage monsters. They had but little religion, and that an idolatry so barbarous and stupid that no light of reason was visible in it. Their knowledge of the first cause was very erroneous and confused. They admitted another life, but through certain very confused transmigrations. They revered their dead greatly, for they prepared food for their resting-places. They had certain little idols—one who presided over the fields, one over wars, one over illnesses—and they offered ridiculous sacrifices to all. They revered the moon greatly, as the mistress of death, and celebrated their funeral rites only at the full moon. Their priests had high honor among them, and still more the priestesses, who arrogated despotic power to themselves. They had no civil body, but were scattered, and had communication only in their families. They were timid and cowardly, and avenged their grievances only by treachery. Five religious were assigned for that difficult undertaking, their director and superior being father Fray Juan de Santo Thomas, a missionary of proved spirit and a man of resolute mind. They left Manila provided with the necessary supplies. They put in first at the island of Cuyo, whose natives, being of excellent disposition, were hoping to have Spaniards in their island—although this was against the will of their priests, who were losing their profits (which their offices made easy) by admitting them. The missionaries were received with affection by the others, who had no such interests. They first reduced those people to a social life and united them, settling quarrels among the families, and forming a goodly village; and, urging their obligation, they built a church and house. They continued gently to insinuate themselves in the natives’ hearts and succeeded in reducing them to the bosom of the Catholic church. Thence they went to Alutaya. They preached the gospel, and, in the same manner, established a town, church, and house, for the people received the instruction with docility.

10. After those so fortunate beginnings, they determined to send two of the said religious and one lay brother to Paragua. They entered the bay of Taytay, where they experienced greater resistance. The people were opposed to living congregated in one settlement, and that was the gravest hindrance; but the fathers were able to attain in part, by dint of patience and constancy. The greatest annoyance arose from the Moros, who infested those coasts, and the natives were unwilling to expose themselves to their injuries by establishing themselves on the beach. The religious hoped that the Spaniards would defend them with their arms, and that with their reduction they would become established there. By that method and other effective efforts they attained the erection of a large village. Thence the religious informed the superior government of their progress, and that for its continuation and the defense of the natives—both those already reduced, and those whom they expected to reduce—the construction of a fort was necessary for the reduction of the island of Paragua, in which a Spanish garrison might be stationed. By that means the reduction of all that large island was certain. Accordingly, that determination was taken in a meeting of the royal treasury tribunal; and two companies were detached for the garrison, one Spanish and the other Pampanga. The title and pay of royal chaplain was given and conceded to the minister of that village. The fort mounted on its ramparts some excellent artillery. The conquests were carried farther along that coast, and inland. The Spaniards were also received, and without any repugnance the natives accommodated themselves to the fitting homage, even the infidels recognizing the tribute. Villages were established on the river of Barbacan, Aborlan, and as far as Ypolote. They also reduced the island of Dumaran, and spread to the Calamianes Islands, where they founded reductions in Linacapan, Culiong, or Calamian the lesser, and in the greater [Oalamian] at Busuagan. To the above, which they regarded as capitals, they added other near-by villages; and as their ministrations spread so extraordinarily, it became necessary for a greater number of religious to go there. That was made possible by the second arrival from España of father Fray Rodrigo de San Miguel,[20] who had been sent to make various efforts in their interests, and who returned with eight religious.