A great quantity of gold has been, and is, obtained from the province; not that the province yields it, but the Igorrotes bring it down from the mountains. They are light-complexioned Indians, but more unconquerable than what we have said of Zambales and Negrillos. When peaceful they bring down gold, which they extract there from their mines; and they exchange it for cattle, which those along the coast own. They trade also for abnormally large and completely white swine—never have I seen them of such size in España. They also take away blankets, which the people in Ilocos make of excellent quality, from cotton, which is produced in abundance. But when the Igorrotes are hostile, the same is suffered as at Pampanga, and even more. For then those mountaineers come down to hunt heads, in which they take great pride. This is a remarkable inclination of all these Indians, for they are all bloodthirsty. Ours labored much in this province, as will be seen.
The father provincial established religious for the second time in the districts near Passi in Bisayas. We have said enough of this in its place, and I refer to that.
Likewise the fathers of the definitorio established resident fathers in Malate. This is only one short half-legua from Manila, and consists of but one street, along which are three parish churches. The first is Santiago[120] and is built of stone. It is excellent, and was ordered to be built by Don Juan de Silva, governor of these islands. All the Spaniards who live outside the city of Manila—who, I believe, number more than those who live within—attend this church. These Spaniards are all poor folk, and married to native, mestiza, or negro women. Many are sailors; and some are in the islands only temporarily, engaged in their petty trading, and because they can live more comfortably in this country, and there is less heat, as it is open and free. This suburb contains some stone houses, and some summer gardens. Farther on is Ermita, which ministers to Tagál Indians, who number about four hundred.[121] It has a stone church and the house of the beneficed priest. It belonged to us first; but some time ago it was given to the bishops of Manila, in order that they might have a house outside the city, where they might refresh and recreate themselves.[122] It is called Nuestra Señora de Guia. It has an image to which great devotion is paid. When the ships from Castilla fail to come, and are delayed, then they take out the image and carry it to the cathedral, and a novena is performed in order that the Virgin may bring these ships. Thus many times the ships have arrived at that time. At other times it has happened that, after the novena, they have no news of the vessels and they wish to return the Virgin, but the weather has been such that it was impossible; but at that time news of the vessels would arrive, which is the most joyful news for all the islands. For if the vessels fail to come, in even one year, all are left without help or shelter.[123]
Further on in the same street is this convent of ours at Malate. It has a stone church and house, sufficient for one religious, who lives there and has in charge two hundred Indians.[124] The image, “Nuestra Señora de los Remedios,” has been highly reverenced. All the Indians of these towns are traders, and their chief source of wealth is in the voyages to Cavite. For there, at any time, they find a boat all ready, which takes them to Cavite in a very short time. Very rarely is any of these boats ever lost; for the Indians understand them perfectly, and are wont to venture on the sea even with the waves running sky-high.
Religious were established in Tanauan, situated in the lake of Taal. It was a very fine town, rich and densely populated, but now it is thoroughly impoverished. It has a wooden house and church, and Ours minister to about seven hundred Indians.[125] The people are Tagáls. As one goes thither from Manila, he descends a truly frightful hill for more than one legua. The convent lies on the lake shore, and on the brow of the same land or slope. Tanauan lies eleven or twelve leguas from Manila, and belongs to the latter’s bishopric. In it is Comintan, where many cotton hose are made. The inhabitants are healthier and more clever than the others. Champans (which are Sangley boats) enter this lake through the Taal River, by which the lake empties into the sea; for the Chinese go everywhere, and there is no islet, however devoid of profit it be, where they do not go. If they can obtain nothing else at any islet they get wood; and if that is lacking, yet they find on the coast material from which they make lime. This they take to Manila, and it is not the least expensive thing.
A convent and religious were established in Lipa, which is located on this lake, four leguas from the convent of Tanauan, of which I have just spoken. This convent has at present about four hundred Indians. It has one religious, and the place formerly was densely populated. But already I have mentioned how this lake region has retrograded. Many Indians have been taken thence to Cavite, and but very few return; for they remain in that neighborhood, fleeing from work. There are a very fine new house and church there, which are built of wood and better than those of Tanauan.
Religious were established in San Pablo in the mountains,[126] which is fourteen leguas from Manila by way of Laguna de Bay—ten to the Bay, and four to this convent. It was nothing until father Fray Hernando Cabrera[127]—of the province of Andalucía, and a son of the house at Cordova—went there, who was prior in that convent for many years. Although neither its house nor its churches of stone, yet they are of wood, and the best and finest in the province—particularly the church, with its reredoses and paintings of the saints of the order, so handsomely made that there is nothing finer in the islands. It is feared, and with good reason, that since it is built of wood, it will last but a short time, and that all that expense and beauty will be wasted. The Indians were settled as if they were Spaniards, and their village was laid out with its squares and so excellent houses that it was good only to behold it. But as soon as the father left there, all that order vanished; for all which does not tend to keep the Indians in their fields and in the mountains makes them dissatisfied. The father established so good a stock farm that the Manila convent had to go there, and obtain from it five hundred head of cattle; these were placed on the old stock farm, which no longer had any cattle. He adorned the sacristy of the said village with so much silver that no cathedral in España had an equal amount, for it had abundance of every kind. As soon as this religious left there, the convent of Manila took a notable ornament from it, which cost it more than eight hundred granos. With this the house at Manila is adorned during the most solemn feasts, both within and without the house. The father did many things in other places, until his death at sea, during a voyage to España in 1629. The province will always mourn the death of this religious, for, besides his having done most to increase it, he was the best Tagál interpreter. This, together with his exceeding great renown in secular affairs, and his not less observance in matters affecting his order, was a quality that would make him esteemed in any community. He left this province to go to take shelter in España. There was no provincial who would restrain him; for of these religious there are some who had to be restrained, since out of many crews not many men excel. He died at sea; and it was well understood that God did not choose to leave him here, but without doubt would take him to give him the reward of his many labors and of his devotion. This convent has more than one thousand Indians, and three religious—a very small number. Sometimes there are two religious, the number depending upon the poverty or ease of the time. A quantity of fruit grows in this place. The water is bad, and therefore the religious are looking for better. Cattle draw the fruit from here to Bay, where small Sangley and Japanese champans are found. These buy the fruit to resell it in Manila; for all the fruit and buyo used in the city of Manila comes from this Laguna, as I believe I have already mentioned. Amid these heights are many fresh-water lakes, and others of salt water, one-half legua in circuit or more. Others are less but so deep that bottom cannot be found. They are secrets of the Author of nature.
Chapter XXVII
Which treats of the chapter of this province in which father Fray Diego Muñóz[128] was elected