It was very strange, that in all this Voyage we did not see one Fish, not so much as a Flying-Fish, nor any sort of Fowl; but at one time, when we were by my account 4975 miles West from Cape Corrientes, then we saw a great number of Boobies, which we supposed came from some Rocks not far from us, which were mentioned in some of our Sea-Charts, but we did not see them.
After we had run the 1900 Leagues by our reckoning, which made the English account to Guam, the Men began to murmur against Captain Swan, for perswading them to come on this Voyage; but he gave them fair words, and told them that the Spanish account might probably be the truest, and seeing the Gale was likely to continue, a short time longer would end our troubles.
As we drew nigh the Island, we met with some small Rain, and the Clouds settling in the West, were an apparent token that we were not far from Land; for in these Climates, betwixt or near the Tropicks, where the Trade-wind blows constantly, the Clouds which fly swift over head, yet seem near the Limb of the Horizon to hang without much motion or alteration, where the Land is near. I have often taken notice of it, especially if it is high Land, for you shall then have the Clouds hang about it without any visible motion.
The 20th day of May, our Bark being about 3 Leagues a-head of our Ship, sailed over a rocky Shole, on which there was but 4 fathom water, and abundance of Fish swimming about the Rocks. They imagin’d by this that the Land was not far off; so they clap’d on a Wind with the Barks Head to the North, and being past the Shole lay by for us. When we came up with them, Captain Teat came aboard us, and related what he had seen. We were then in lat. 12. d. 55 m. steering West. The Island Guam is laid down in Lat. 13. d. N. by the Spaniards,[5] who are Masters of it, keeping it as a baiting-place as they go to the Philippine Islands. Therefore we clap’d on a Wind and stood to Northward, being somewhat troubled and doubtful whether we were right, because there is no Shole laid down, in the Spanish Drafts about the Island Guam. At 4 a Clock, to our great Joy, we saw the Island Guam, at about 8 Leagues distance.
It was well for Captain Swan that we got sight of it before our Provision was spent, of which we had but enough for 3 days more; for, as I was afterwards informed, the Men had contrived, first to kill Captain Swan and eat him when the Victuals was gone, and after him all of us who were accessary in promoting the undertaking this Voyage. This made Captain Swan say to me after our arrival at Guam, Ah! Dampier, you would have made them but a poor Meal; for I was as lean as the Captain was lusty and fleshy. The Wind was at E.N.E. and the Land bore at N.N.E. therefore we stood to the Northward, till we brought the Island to bear East, and then we turned to get in to an anchor.
[Here follows a table with entries from March 31 to May 21 showing the daily runs made by the ships. This table shows the course to have been almost due west after April 17. The variation in the needle is disregarded as it was so slight. Dampier declares that the sea-distances have been incorrectly stated. He continues:]
But to proceed with our Voyage: The Island Guam or Guahon, (as the Native Indians pronounce it) is one of the Ladrone Islands, belongs to the Spaniards, who have a small Fort with six Guns in it, with a Governour, and 20 or 30 Soldiers. They keep it for the relief and refreshment of their Philippine Ships, that touch here in their way from Acapulco to Manila, but the Winds will not so easily let them take this way back again. The Spaniards of late have named Guam, the Island Maria, it is about 12 leagues long, and 4 broad, lying N. and S. It is pretty high Champain Land.
The 21st day of May, 1686, at 11 a Clock in the Evening, we anchored near the middle of the Island Guam, on the West side; a Mile from the shore. At a distance it appears flat and even, but coming near it you will find it stands shelving, and the East side, which is much the highest, is fenced with steep Rocks, that oppose the Violence of the Sea, which continually rage against it, being driven with the constant Trade-wind, and on that side there is no Anchoring. The West side is pretty low, and full of small sandy Bays, divided with as many rocky Points. The Soil of the Island is reddish, dry and indifferent fruitful. The Fruits are chiefly Rice, Pine-Apples, Water-melons, Musk-melons, Oranges, and Limes, Coco-nuts, and a sort of Fruit called by us Bread-fruit.
The Coco-nut Trees grow by the Sea, on the Western side in great Groves, 3 or 4 Miles in length, and a Mile or two broad. This Tree is in shape like the Cabbage-tree, and at a distance they are not to be known each from other, only the Coco-nut Tree is fuller of Branches; but the Cabbage-tree generally is much higher, tho’ the Coco-nut Trees in some places are very high.
The Nut or Fruit grows at the head of the Tree, among the Branches and in Clusters, 10 or 12 in a Cluster. The Branch to which they grow is about the bigness of a Man’s Arm, and as long, running small towards the end. It is of a yellow Colour, full of Knots and very tough. The Nut is generally bigger than a Man’s Head. The outer Rind is near two Inches thick, before you come to the Shell; the Shell it self is black, thick, and very hard. The Kernel in some Nuts is near an Inch thick, sticking to the inside of the Shell clear round, leaving a hollow in the middle of it, which contains about a Pint, more or less, according to the bigness of the Nut, for some are much bigger than others.