Suitable clothing is as necessary in cycling as in all other forms of exercise. Warmth with lightness are the things to be aimed at, while it is of the first necessity that there should be no pressure anywhere, from the crown of the head to the soles of the feet, to impede free circulation. Having said this, little more remains to add, as each rider will naturally have her own ideas as to the underclothing she prefers, and provided this is warm enough to guard the wearer against chills and sufficiently light to prevent it adding to her fatigue, I do not think it much signifies what she chooses. Silk or woollen knickerbockers of some dark colour should of course be worn, and these which should be cut fairly full must on no account be made of very heavy material, a warm flannel lining being sufficient in any case to give warmth.
A loosely-fitting bodice, or nicely-cut coat, according to the time of year, will be found suitable, and this brings me to the part of our attire about which there is a real difficulty, namely, a well cut skirt. Of all the many so-called cycling "skirts," there are but few really suitable for the purpose, for not only is it necessary they should be useful, but it is on the way they fall that the graceful or other appearance of the rider will greatly depend. A woman may sit well and pedal to perfection, but if she has a skirt that does not hang evenly and easily on each side of her saddle, and is of the right length, she will not look well in motion.
The great difficulty is of course to get the "hang" right beside the saddle, and to ensure the fulness keeping it its proper place, I have originated a method for my own skirts which I have found answer well. This is very simple, and consists of a V shaped piece of the material of which the skirt is made being firmly stitched on below the band at the back, to hold the pleats in place. With this, the fulness does not move too easily to one side, when the necessary touch to the skirt is made in mounting.
The skirt should be cut slightly longer behind than in front, as of course when the rider is in the saddle it will hang shorter than where it falls straight down. When the wearer is standing up, the skirt should come to within six inches of the ground in front. As regards width, it should not be too full, as nothing looks more ungraceful than a skirt which flies out on either side with every turn of the foot. At the same time it must be full enough to allow complete freedom of movement. About three-and-a-half yards is generally considered the right width. When having a skirt made from a new pattern, I should always insist on having it fitted when you are seated in the saddle, as only so can you tell how it will really answer.
For keeping the skirt from blowing up, I have found nothing better than to pass the feet through a strap of ¼-inch elastic, about nine inches in length, laid flat against the inside of the hem. These straps should be placed about ten inches on either side of the middle of front of skirt, so as to enable you to walk without inconvenience.
As a material, a light woollen cloth of dark and unobtrusive colour is in my opinion the most suitable.
For riding you should have a hat that will not catch the wind, and as shade for a part of the year is desirable, you will find nothing better than a "sailor" as a fitting accompaniment to a sensible and workmanlike dress. A common mistake is to have a heavy hat with a great deal of trimming, which cannot be comfortable during rapid motion through any but the stillest of atmospheres.
As to foot-gear, a low-heeled flexible waisted shoe is to be recommended, with gaiters for winter wear.
An important matter for all and especially for the delicate in health, who may so often derive benefit from cycling, is to guard against a chill after riding. No time should be lost after reaching home, before putting on a complete set of dry underclothing. It is by standing about, perhaps out of doors or in a draught, till the warm glow which was upon you when you stepped off your machine has given place to a shivery feeling, that you will get harm instead of good from your pleasant spin, whereas a warm bath and a fresh set of clothing, and not even the most delicate need suffer from her exertions. If you should for any reason not find this possible without a certain delay, then put on a warm coat or other wrap immediately, and this will generally prevent you from suffering any ill effects.
You should always have your cycle dusted over and any mud carefully wiped off, directly you return from a ride. To prevent damage to the enamel, the mud should be wiped very gently with a soft wet cloth, and if this is carefully done it does not matter whether the mud has dried or not. The bright parts should be rubbed with a soft leather or "selvyt," and then a Holland cover be thrown over the machine, to keep it free from dust or any slight damp. With the exception of a rub with the "selvyt" the cycle will then be ready for use. If a slight application of a good furniture cream is made to the enamelled parts, it will brighten them considerably. When it is known that the machine will not be required for any length of time, all the bright parts should be smeared with Vaseline, and the machine itself should be stood in a dry place. It is best to rest it on a small stand, which is also very useful for cleaning purposes. After a long rest all the bearings should be well oiled, the lamp refilled, and the machine generally overhauled. The tyres should be kept hard. Some people let the air out when their machine is not in use, under the idea that it is good for the tyres, but this is a mistake. If the tyres are allowed to go flat, the weight of the machine will be likely to "nip" the inner tube. Above all, oil should be kept from the tyres, and if any should by chance drop on them while the machine is being oiled, it should be carefully wiped off. A tyre should not need blowing up, more than once in two or three weeks, if the valves are in good order. If, therefore, it should require inflating every day, as sometimes happens, either there is a small puncture, or the valve is out of order. If the trouble is caused by a puncture, it will generally mean a visit to the repairers, but first examine the valves in case these should be at fault, for very often a little attention to them will put matters right. As there are so many kinds of valves a technical illustration would be of little use, but as a rule all valves can be unscrewed and examined easily. In the valve most in use, viz.: that of the Dunlop tyre, if the end is unscrewed—after the dust cap is taken off—the whole mechanism of the valve can be taken out, and this will be found to consist only of a small cylinder covered by a little indiarubber tube. This piece of rubber covers the valve hole in the cylinder, and it is the rubber which generally wants replacing. The dust cap is the small cap, attached by a little chain to the spokes, and which is screwed over the end of the valve to keep the dirt out, after the tyre has been inflated.