Fig. 1.
Before the schooner is shaped it should be hollowed. Draw a straight line with pencil along the centre of the upper surface of the block A B (Fig. 1). If the breadth of the block is eight inches then the centre will be four inches from each edge. Next, in a similar way divide the length of the block into two equal parts with a pencil line C D. If the length is two feet four inches then this line will be one foot two from each end of the block. Now divide the length into three equal parts by the lines E F and G H. One third of two feet four inches is nine inches and one third of an inch, so that each of the three parts will have this measurement. Draw now the line I J C B and when this line is of the right shape make a tracing of it, and from the tracing a cardboard model. By placing this model upon the other side of the line A B and drawing round its edge you will get the line B D K I and it will be exactly like I J C B, a very important matter. With a knife, gouge, and chisel the boat may now be hollowed with care, and we may repeat that it is easier to hollow the block before its outside has been shaped than afterwards, because it stands now more firmly upon the table or bench.
The shape of the outside is shown in Fig. 2, and it should be noticed that the line L M N is not straight but curves so that M is the lowest point and L and N the highest. Upon the counter at O a hole must be bored for the stern-post, which will come through at P in Fig. 1.
Fig. 2.
It is well from time to time to try the boat in water to see if it floats evenly, or if more has been taken from one side than the other. These little matters should be corrected, and a number of little touches will be needed here and there with tools or sandpaper before the vessel is right inside and out. Then put a deck of thin wood over the hollowed part. This should be fitted very carefully so that no water can pass into the hold of the ship. If bulwarks are desired the deck may be half an inch or an inch below the edge of the vessel, but if the deck is flush with the sides of the hull there will be no place for water to lodge.
We now come to the masts, of which there will be two. For the foremast make a hole through the deck at Q on Fig. 1. It is about an inch from the line G H. At R two inches from the line E F a similar hole should penetrate the deck for the main mast. The circumference of the lower masts should be one inch and three quarters, but an inch will serve for the topmasts. The bowsprit and the booms should measure one inch and a quarter round, and the gaffs an inch.
A Schooner.
- Bobstay.
- Bowsprit.
- Forestay.
- Stay Foresail.
- Foremast.
- Gaff Foresail.
- Fore Gaff.
- Fore Boom.
- Mainmast.
- Mainsail.
- Main Boom.
- Main Gaff.
- Main Topmast.
- Gaff Topsail.
- Main Topmast Stay.
- Fore Peak Haulyards.
- Fore Throat Haulyards.
- Main Peak Haulyards.
- Main Throat Haulyards.
- Mainsheet.
- Foresheet.
- Stay Foresheet.
- Rudder.
- Lead Ballast.
- Forecap and Cross Trees.
- Maincap and Cross Trees.