We will now supplement what our “Old Hand” has told us by other hints.
Bait and Other Matters.—We shall not occupy space discussing rods, and such things. Each boy settles these questions for himself, in accordance with the money he can spare, after a talk with the dealer and a contemplation of his wares. Such accessories as landing nets he leaves generally until he is grown up, and manages very well without them. He may, however, provide himself with a clearing ring and line, because he is likely to feel the need for these often. This useful clearing tackle consists of a number of yards of strong cord, to the end of which is fastened a heavy ring of lead or brass. If the hook should get fast in a weed or anything else, this ring is put over the butt of the rod, and allowed to slip down the line to the hook. The rod should be held in the right hand, the top pointing downwards, the clearing-line in the left; the ring falling on the hook from its weight usually clears the hook. If not, the angler should grasp the rod firmly, and draw the line sideways, and break away. In this case, he seldom loses more than a hook; but without the use of a clearing-line he frequently loses his float as well as his hook and line, and sometimes breaks his rod. The brass clearing-rings are best, because they are jointed, and can be used when the angler has a reel on his rod.
An old angler advises that after the young fisherman has made choice of a place to fish, he should first plumb the depth truly, and with as little disturbance to the water as may be. If the water be still throw in small pieces of ground bait; if there is a strong current large pieces. Keep as far from the water as you can, and go slily to work, for even the shaking of the bank will frighten some of these fish. The bait should be dropped into the water quietly. Stand as far from the edge of the water as possible, and never let your shadow fall upon the water. When it is possible hide behind a bush or a tree.
In baiting a hook insert the point of the hook near to the top of the worm’s head, and carry it down to within a quarter of an inch of its tail. To do this you must work up the worm with your left thumb and finger, while with your right you are gradually pressing the hook downwards. If too much of the worm hangs loose the fish will seldom take the whole in their mouth, and will not be hooked. To bait a hook well with a worm is necessary to ensure catching a fish when you strike; and it consists in drawing the worm without injuring it quite over and up the shank of the hook, leaving only a small lively part of the tail below. If you bait with half a worm, choose the tail end, and insert the point of the hook into the top part, and bring it down nearly to the end of the tail, leaving only a very small piece of it free. If you bait with two worms on the same hook, draw the first up above the shank, and put the second on in the same manner as directed with one worm, but insert the hook near the tail of the second worm; then draw the first one down on the second over the shank of the hook.
Red Worm.—Found with the brandling but not so common. At their best in tan heaps, but are found also in the banks of ditches and sewers.
Marsh Worms.—Known also as blue heads. Found in marshes at night, especially after rain. A good bait for gudgeon, trout, perch, bream, and grayling.
Tag Tail.—Tail has a yellow tint. Found in fields in moist spring weather. Often preferred when the water is muddy, especially for trout.
Water Worms.—Found in sedges and at the bottom of dock roots. Turn up the long slimy moss on weirs for them. They are of a clear bluish white, occasionally very light purple, becoming red at the head. Fish eat them voraciously.
Ash Grub.—Look for these in the bark of trees. They are good for grayling, dace, roach, or chub.
Cow Dung Bait.—From May to the end of September these may be found under cow dung. They are eaten by roach, chub, grayling, and dace.