October is one of the best months in which to plant shrubs. After the leaves show them to be dormant they can be safely moved and will become established before very cold weather.
Each year we are learning that more planting can be done in the fall if done early enough, and by so doing one escapes a part of the rush that comes in the spring. "Anything that is hardy can be moved in the fall," an old nurseryman once said to me, and it has been a safe rule to follow. But note the word "hardy" in his advice. All stock, either shrubbery or perennials, that are planted in the fall should be well mulched.
The bulbs for the spring garden, except those that require early planting, will also need to be put in this month in order to make a good root growth before frost overtakes them. Here we are able to achieve exact results as they very seldom disappoint us as to color or time of blooming as some other plants do.
Have you tried planting your bulbs with any of the ground cover plants that will take away the bare look that most bulb beds have? The arabis with its snowy blossoms is beautiful beneath the early tulips. The violas—with such a wide range of color—make lovely backgrounds for the later tulips, as also do the creeping phlox and the native lavender blue divaricata phlox. A bed of this beneath pale pink Darwin tulips is one of the lovely memories of last spring's garden.
Another snowy white flower is the perennial candytuft, Iberis. Blooming at the same time and remaining lovely for a long period it combines well with any of the tall tulips or narcissi or daffodils. Alyssum saxatile, with its sheet of gold, and the dear forget-me-nots, both grow well beneath the tulips. The fine lacey tufts of meadow rue are lovely among the pink and white and rose tulips. Surely the bulb beds need not be bare.
The very early blossoms are always the most welcome. So plant some bulbs, at least twenty-five, of scillas, snowdrops, snowflakes (Leucojum vernum). These, if left undisturbed, will increase greatly. The chionodoxas, grape hyacinths and crocuses are all well worth planting, but do not put the latter in the grass as they will not do well there in our climate.
FOR OUR ROSE GROWERS.
Members of the American Rose Society have been raising money to employ a trained plant pathologist to study diseases of roses. The work has been begun under Dr. L. M. Massey, of the New York State College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca, N. Y.
By co-operating with Dr. Massey all growers of roses will greatly increase the efficiency of the investigations. A rose disease survey will first be made. It is here that all rose growers can help by sending specimens of diseased plants, with a statement regarding varieties affected, nature and extent of the injury, time of appearance of the disease and any other things that have been noticed regarding it. Information for the control of the disease will be given by Dr. Massey. The following directions are given to those sending specimens:
"The material sent should be freshly collected and should show various stages of the development of the disease. Where roots are sent it will usually be undesirable to enclose any soil. Where convenient specimens should be mailed so as to reach Ithaca the latter part of the week. Place leaves, buds, etc., between the leaves of an old newspaper, a few between each two sheets. Then roll into a tight bundle and wrap in stout paper. Attach one of the franked tags (which may be had upon request), on which you have written your name and address, and mail. It will go postage free—H. H. Whetzel, Head of the Department of Plant Pathology, New York State College of Agriculture, Cornell University, Ithaca."