The exquisite beauty of the windows, and the gorgeous splendor of the roof, will always make this place live in my memory. The terraces are very beautiful walks; and from Queen Elizabeth's terrace you have a noble view of Eton College. Of course, we were pleased to see "the distant spires and antique towers" which are so celebrated in the lines of Gray. The college looms up finely, and greatly adds to the prospect. Eton was founded in 1440, by Henry VI. The number of scholars is about eight hundred and fifty. This college has produced some of the greatest men in England, and the young nobility are generally educated here. The college has two quadrangles, and the chapel is a fine Gothic building. All this region is beautified by the Thames winding through the valley. Here is the gem of villages, Datchett, where Sir Henry Wotton and Izaak Walton used to enjoy the rod and line. No one who has any taste can come to Windsor and not think of the immortal bard who has made so much capital out of this place. At all events, we wanted to see Herne's Oak.
We took a carriage and passed the day in riding through the great park, and took our way through the well-known avenue, called the Long Walk. This is three miles in length, and has a double row of magnificent elms. It is directly in front of the south side of the castle, and terminates in a colossal equestrian statue of George III., standing on an immense pedestal of blocks of granite. Nothing can exceed in beauty the beeches of this park, which contains three thousand acres. Immense herds of deer are seen under the trees. Nowhere have I seen such fine old trees. Here is a beech-tree thirty-six feet round, seven feet from the ground! One oak of similar size is called William the Conqueror's Oak. We went to Virginia Water, the largest sheet of water—that is, artificial—in Great Britain. We saw the little cottage where George IV. passed so much of his time. It is a pretty place, but it only shows that the mind is more likely to be pleased with the simple than the grand.
The gardener at the cottage—which I think is called Cumberland Lodge—showed us through the conservatory. We did not much admire the Fishing Temple, or the floating miniature navy. The scenery is charming, and worthy of Poussin. The walk by the water, to the tavern, cannot be surpassed. On our return we passed Frogmore, the residence of the Duchess of Kent; it seems a pretty, unpretending place.
Nothing would repay the tourist better than to pass three or four days, in this vicinity. Village after village, and villa after villa, claims the admiration of the traveller; and perhaps England has no more beautiful rural scenery than may here be found. We had seven or eight hours of perfect delight upon our ride; and when we reached the White Hart, at Windsor, we were well prepared for doing justice to an excellent dinner. Our pleasure at Windsor was much increased by the company of a gentleman of high literary reputation, and who is distinguished as the author of several successful works.
Affectionately yours,
weld
Letter 19.
London
Dear Charley:—