A hem is a fold of goods doubled twice to prevent a raw edge. The fold should be turned even and straight with the thread of the material, on this depends the neatness of one's work. The hem should always be turned in toward the worker and basted firmly not too near the edge, leaving one-eighth inch space for working. Felling—when felling or hemming, the needle should take up only the edge to be hemmed or felled down and just enough to hold on the cloth or lining. When felling or hemming take small stitches close together, even, and do not draw thread or silk too tight as to cause the edge to have the appearance of the teeth of a saw.
BACK STITCHING.
The back stitch is made by placing the needle back in the last stitch, bringing it out once the length of the last stitch, then placing the needle back into last stitch and so on, being careful not to draw the thread too tight as to have a drawing appearance, make the stitches follow each other without leaving a space between. Back stitching is used in places where much strain is on the seam.
Bias hems, such as sleeve head lining, etc.
All bias hems and curved edges, should have the folds basted in.
LESSON IV.
ALTERATIONS.
How to shorten and lengthen coat sleeves. How to raise and lower collars. How to alter (or change) a coat that is too large around the neck and collar. How to make the alteration when a coat is too large over the chest. How to change a vest that is too large around. How to make a vest larger around. How to change trousers that are too long. How to lengthen trousers. How to make trousers smaller around the waist. How to make trousers larger around the waist, whether there is an outlet or not. How to make button cords for sewing on buttons. An easy way to hang a skirt. How to iron over buttons without breaking. Also how to iron embroidery.