This is a very particular piece of work, and should not be attempted unless the garment is old, and one wants to practice on it; this may be had by altering an old garment for practice, as with practice, most anything may be accomplished. (When one has had considerable experience in this line, then it may be done without taking it to a tailor; until then, it will be best to let the experienced tailor do the work on a good coat.)
When a coat is too large around the neck and collar, and falls away at the bottom when unbuttoned, and bulges at the opening when buttoned, is an indication that the garment is not balanced properly. This may be changed to fit perfectly in the following manner: Run a basting three inches from each side of the shoulder seams and to front of coat to collar end. Rip collar off from crease to crease, rip shoulder seams from neck to within two inches of the sleeve seam, and mark with chalk, the amount to be taken in (as the shoulder strap is too long from neck to bottom of arm hole and must be shortened so that the coat will hang squarely and well balanced when unbuttoned as well as when buttoned), mark from neck gradually to nothing at the end of the two inches, from the shoulder or sleeve head; this amount to be taken off the forepart in all cases, baste back to shoulder seam and press open, unless a trifle may be taken off the center back seam at top, which is a good idea, so that the collar will fall more closely to the neck. Baste shoulder and lining together. Now baste collar on, starting at the center back seam, and baste forward each way, and if found too long, shorten as explained above; fell shoulders and collar. Finish collar neatly and press shoulder and collar.
When one side is to be altered (this one may see when customer has coat on and buttoned, and one side stands away from the neck), in that case, only change one side.
When a coat is too large over the chest, and by setting the buttons back from the edge two and one-half inches (which is only to be done in extreme cases) will not have the desired effect; run a row of basting cotton around arm hole two inches from the sleeve seam, across shoulder to the front end of collar and two inches from the shoulder seam. Rip sleeves and shoulders out and collar off from end to end, press seam out smooth, and mark with chalk the amount shoulder is to be advanced, say from one-quarter to three-quarters of an inch, as the case may be (this may be easily determined when the coat is on the customer, notice the amount of lap and then judge the amount), baste back shoulder to forepart of coat having the top of back even with the chalk mark; seam and press open, baste shoulder and lining together, now baste collar on, then baste sleeve in, and seam and press open seam as before and fix up sleeve head, and cut off end of shoulder amount shoulder was advanced at shoulder point. This will take surplus goods away from the front and allow goods to go back; finish collar, shoulders and sleeves and press.
Double breasted coats are different, the buttons may be set from the edge, according to style and fashion.
When a coat is too large in the back, take part out in the side seams and part out in the center back seam; the best way to determine the amount to be taken out, is to pin each seam a trifle when customer has coat on, then one will get the proper effect of the alteration.
When a vest is too large around, it may be pinned on the customer, down the side seams and center back the desired amount to be taken out; this alteration may be done in the following manner: Rip vest across back of neck, rip each side seam, mark with chalk the amount to be taken in on each side seam and center back seams. Baste forepart to that of the back at side seams and baste center back seam together, lining and outside.
Seam on machine, remove the basting, turn vest right side out and fell across back of neck. Press side seams, back and around neck; place on hanger to retain shape.
When vest is to be made larger, proceed as follows: Rip side seams and across the back of neck, press out side seams of back, and remove stitches, and if there is an outlet, mark with chalk the amount to be let out on each side, and baste as before and finish the same. If there is no outlet, one must sew a piece of lining to the outside and inside lining; press open the seams or stitch to one side and press. Then mark with chalk the amount to be let out and proceed as explained and finish.
When trousers are too long, they may be shortened in the following manner: Mark with chalk (using the tape line for measuring length) the desired length, loosen the bottoms, (if felled, rip with knife or scissors, being careful not to cut the cloth), if there is rubber in the bottoms, wet a piece of cloth with gasolene, and rub over the outside and pull turn up free from the bottoms. Turn trousers inside out, allow to dry after using gasolene before turning up bottoms. If rubber is to be put in the bottoms, cut a piece one inch and a half wide, and baste in the turn up or hem and fasten hem to the side seams with silk, only leave a two inch turn up, cut balance off.