When clothing is laid away for another season, they should first be thoroughly brushed, repaired, cleaned and pressed, to be ready for wear when needed. If placed in bags or boxes, the moth preventative should be sprinkled over freely. Tailors' boxes are very good to place garments in, that are not in use, and should be labeled on the outside as to the contents.

Fold all articles on the seams, if possible, being careful when folding sleeves and collars. Coat lapels should be turned to lie flat; collars turned up, and the coat folded in the center back seam, sleeves lying together and on top of each other. Then fold in half crosswise, and place in the box.

If fancy waists and coats are put in drawers, fill the sleeves with tissue paper. This will prevent wrinkling.

To be well dressed, one's clothes must be of good material and fit well. The length of waist, and full length should be in proportion to the wearer, or as near fashion as good taste will permit. Sleeve the right length, and hang properly, and to come to the root of the thumb. The collar must fit close around the neck, the lapels should be neat and even, the opening in front should close without bulging when buttoned, and should have no cross wrinkles under the back of arms, and no wrinkles below the collar. The whole appearance of the garment must be easy, the chest should be of the athletic style (chesty), while the waist should be close fitting and flat (not tight). The arm hole should not be too deep so that the coat will remain in its proper position while sitting as when standing. The buttonholes must be neat, and the buttons sewed on good and strong with neck.

The overcoat should be easy, not clumsy, and of fashionable length, sleeves to cover the under coat, and to fit close around the neck (sleeves of a rain coat may be longer than those of an ordinary overcoat), and must be the same length at front and back at bottom.

A vest should fit easy to allow the body to slip up and down, whether sitting or stooping, more especially the former.

A great many people make the mistake by having their vests made snug. One will never get a good fitting vest in this way. A vest should come up close around the collar, and high enough, so that it will not crawl under the linen collar, this may be avoided by having a good tailor make one's clothes.

Trousers should be the proper length, and of ample size over the hips, knee, and to fall gracefully over the shoe at the bottom, (some wear them very short with cuff or French bottoms, this is a style for college towns, and is not universal.) The waist should be the proper height and size around, (for trousers worn without suspenders, the waist must fit closer and cut shorter waisted). Stout men do not want their trousers very long waisted and up under their arms, therefore great care must be taken when selecting, cutting and making stout men's trousers. When trying on a pair of trousers, or in fact any garment, stand before the mirror in one's natural position, do not twist and turn, and cause wrinkles to form all over the garment, and when looking at the trousers, look at them in the mirror; do not look down upon them as many do, and often condemn a good fitting pair of trousers, because by stooping and looking down, wrinkles appear that when standing natural, hang smooth and straight.


LESSON VIII.