The drum method of dyeing is perhaps best, a drum somewhat similar to that used by curriers being preferable. The goods are placed on the shelves inside the dry drum, the lid of which is then fastened on, and the machinery is started; when the drum is revolving at full speed, which should be about 12 to 15 revolutions per minute, the dye solution is added through the hollow axle, and the dyeing continued for half an hour, when, without stopping the drum, if desired, the goods may be fatliquored by running in the fatliquor through the hollow axle. The disadvantages are that the flesh is dyed and the goods cannot be seen. The advantages are that little labour is required, a large pack of skins may be treated, level shades are produced, heat is retained, almost complete exhaustion of the dye-bath is effected, and subsequent processes, such as fatliquoring, may be carried out without stopping the drum.
Of the great number of coal-tar dyes on the market comparatively few can be used in leather manufacture. The four chief classes are: (1) acid dyes; (2) basic or tannin dyes; (3) direct or cotton dyes; (4) mordant (alizarine) dyes.
Acid dyes are not so termed because they have acid characteristics; the name simply denotes that for the development of the full shade of colour it is necessary to add acid to the dye-bath. These dyes are generally sodium salts of sulphonic acids, and need the addition of an acid to free the dye, which is the sulphonic acid. Although theoretically any acid (stronger than the sulphonic acid present) will do for this purpose, it is found in practice that only sulphuric and formic acids may be employed, because others, such as acetic, lactic, &c., do not develop the full shade of colour. Acid sodium sulphate may also be successfully used.
Acid colours produce a full level shade without bronzing, and do not accentuate any defects in the leather, such as bad grain, &c. They are also moderately fast to light and rubbing. They are generally applied to leather at a temperature between 50° and 60° C., with an equal weight of sulphuric acid. The quantity of dye used varies, but generally, for goat, persians, &c., from 25 to 30 oz. are used per ten dozen skins, and for calf half as much again, dissolved in such an amount of water as is most convenient according to the method being used. If sodium bisulphate is substituted for sulphuric acid twice as much must be used, and if formic acid three times as much (by weight).
Basic dyes are salts of organic colour bases with hydrochloric or some other suitable acid. Basic colours precipitate the tannins, and thus, because of their affinity for them, dye very rapidly, tending to produce uneven shades, especially if the tannin on the skin is unevenly distributed. They are much more intense in colour than the acid dyes, have a strong tendency to bronze, and accentuate weak and defective grain. They are also precipitated by hard waters, so that the hardness should be first neutralized by the addition of acetic acid, else the precipitated colour lake may produce streakily dyed leather. To prevent rapid dyeing, acetic acid or sodium bisulphate should always be added in small quantity to the dye-bath, preferably the latter, as it prevents bronzing. The most important point about the application of basic dyes to leather is the previous fixation of the tannin on the surface of the leather to prevent its bleeding into the dye-bath and precipitating the dye. All soluble salts of the heavy metals will fix the tannin, but few are applicable, as they form colour lakes, which are generally undesirable. Antimony and titanium salts are generally used, the forms being tartar emetic (antimony potassium tartrate), antimonine (antimony lactate), potassium titanium oxalate, and titanium lactate. The titanium salts are economically used when dyeing browns, as they produce a yellowish-brown shade; it is therefore not necessary to use so much dye. About 2 oz. of tartar emetic and 8 oz. of salt is a convenient quantity for 1 dozen goat skins. The bath is used at 30° to 40° C., and the goods are immersed for about 15 minutes, having been thoroughly washed before being dyed. Iron salts are sometimes used by leather-stainers for saddening (dulling) the shade of colour produced, iron tannate, a black salt, being formed. It is often found economical to “bottom” goods with acid, direct, or other colours, and then finish with basic colours; this procedure forms a colour lake, and colour lakes are always faster to light and rubbing than the colours themselves.
Direct cotton dyes produce shades of great delicacy, and are used for the dyeing of pale and “art” shades. They are applied in neutral or very slightly acid baths, formic and acetic acids being most suitable with the addition of a quantity of sodium chloride or sulphate. After dyeing, the goods are well washed to free from excess of salt. The eosine colours, including erythrosine, phloxine, rose Bengal, &c., are applied in a similar manner, and are specially used for the beautiful fluorescent pink shades they produce; acid and basic colours and mineral acids precipitate them.
The mordant colours, which include the alizarine and anthracene colours, are extremely fast to light, and require a mordant to develop the colour. They are specially applicable to chamois leather, although a few may be used for chrome and alum leathers, and one or two are successfully applied to vegetable-tanned leather without a mordant.
Sulphur or sulphide colours, the first of which to appear were the famous Vidal colours, are applied in sodium sulphide solution, and are most successfully used on chrome leather, as they produce a colour lake with chrome salts, the resulting colour being very fast to light and rubbing. A very serious disadvantage in connexion with them is that they must necessarily be applied in alkaline solution, and the alkali has a disintegrating effect upon the fibre of the leather, which cannot be satisfactorily overcome, although formaldehyde and glycerin mixtures have been patented for the purpose.
The Janus colours are perhaps worth mentioning as possessing both acid and basic characteristics; they precipitate tannin, and are best regarded as basic dyes from a leather-dyer’s standpoint.