II.—SPOTS AND SCRATCHES.
It often happens that there are spots on a negative—caused by specks of dust on the plate, air-bubbles in the developer, or unlucky scratches in the handling—which if not covered in some way make a black spot on the silver paper, and mar the beauty of what would otherwise be a fine picture. With a little practice one can learn to fill up these defects so that they will be scarcely noticeable in the print.
Take a drop or two of the retouching varnish on the end of the finger, and rub it lightly and evenly over the places which are to be retouched. Put to dry in a place free from dust; it will be dry enough in three or four hours. Place the retouching-frame on a table by a window with a good strong light, close the blind or lower the shade over the upper part of the window, and place a sheet of white paper under the frame on the table. Place the negative in the frame, and over it put a piece of opaque paper with a hole an inch or two in diameter opening over the place to be retouched. This also protects the film and shuts off all light except from the points to be treated. Now if the hole is a large one, take the brush and moisten it, and rub a little of the lampblack from the cake of water-color on it. Then with the greatest care touch the spot directly in the centre with a bit of the paint. Rinse the brush, and turning it till a fine point is obtained, work the paint carefully toward the edges of the spot, taking care that it does not touch the film but comes close to it. Let the paint dry, and if the first application has not made the spot of an equal density with the surrounding film, repeat the process. If the operation is not successful, the paint can be removed by applying a little turpentine on a soft cloth.
If the spot to be retouched is very small, or if there is a scratch on the film, take a soft pencil sharpened according to directions given in the first paper on retouching, and with very minute strokes go over the places until the required density is obtained. Sometimes it is necessary to go over the places several times before the spots appear like the film.
If a negative has sharp, harsh contrasts, they can be softened by going over them carefully with the pencil, using the softest one for this purpose, and then blending the pencil strokes with a crayon stump.
Freckles, heavy shadows under the eyes and nose, are easily removed or softened by using a needle-pointed pencil of very soft lead.
Undesirable backgrounds, or objects which have been unavoidably included in the picture, may be blocked out by using a thin solution of lampblack, and applying it to the back of the plate. A light coat obscures the background, and a thick coat blocks it out entirely.
In beginning the practice of retouching, it is wise to experiment on poor negatives, as first attempts are not always successful. Do not be discouraged if the first trial prove a failure. Remember your early experience in making negatives, and try again; for perseverance, no matter in what direction, is sure to bring its reward—success.
Sir Knight William Merritt sends a print which shows no detail at the corners, and says that all his plates have the same fault, and asks what is the matter. The lens does not cover the plate—that is, the lens is too small for the size plate used. It may be that the diaphragm is too large, and by using a smaller diaphragm the blur showing on the edges of the picture would be corrected. The smaller the opening the more extended the sharp field of the lens; but the smaller the opening the longer must be the exposure.
Sir Knight Charles M. Todd asks if hypo is always used for the fixing-bath without regard to the kind of developer; if a ferrotype-plate will impart a gloss to all kinds of prints except blue prints; if the whole roll of films in a pocket kodak would have to be exposed before one could develop any of the exposures; if developing solution may be used the second time if only one or two negatives have been developed in it. Hypo is always used for the fixing-bath, as it is the cheapest and safest chemical for the dissolving of the unused or unacted upon silver salts. Ferrotype-plate will not impart a gloss to a platinum, bromide, or any of the soft-tinted papers. The films in a pocket kodak should all be used before developing. There are only twelve films in a roll, and if part were taken out, one film would have to be spoiled in order to put the unused films back on the empty spool. Developer may be used the second and even the third time. Most amateurs have a bottle for old developer, and use it for starting development, as it is safer unless one knows the exact time of the exposure of the plate.
Sir Knight F. Elton Morse, 11 and 13 Market St., Lynn, Mass., wishes to exchange landscape views with other members of the Camera Club.