ST. LAWRENCE SKIFF WITH FORE-AND-AFT SAIL.
Many combinations are made with the jib. There seems to be about only one common way of rigging a jib for a small boat. A pretty clear idea may be gained from the sketch (Plate I). As may be seen, no stay is used, the sail usually being bound with a rope, which gives it sufficient strength; no halyard is used, either the jib being lashed to the mast, and lowered and hoisted when it is stepped or unstepped. The lower edge is laced to a boom, which is secured to the bow with a lashing about four inches long, a third of its length projecting. The sheet rope is fastened to the inner extremity. The most common combination is the jib and sprit-sail, generally known as the "skiff rig" (see sketch). It is quite often used with one of the "leg-o'-mutton" sails. The most general use of the "leg-o'-mutton" types, however, is either two together, as in the sharpie rig, or separately as the only sail in the boat.
A SHARPIE-RIGGED OYSTER-BOAT.
Perhaps a few words on the spars would be in place here. First, taking the stick itself; it should always be a straight-grained piece of wood, as free from knots as possible, and well seasoned. The several spars require different degrees of tapering. The aim of the taper is to reduce weight, by concentrating the greatest amount of material at the point most strained, and removing the surplus. The mast should leave little taper, except in the "leg-o'-mutton"—where it is tapered very much towards the head—and ought to be nearly the same size throughout its whole length, the thickest part, if any, from a short distance above the deck or brace to a few inches below. It should have a slight taper at the head and a pretty good sized one at the heel where it enters the step. The boom should have a slight gradual taper, the thickest part being between a quarter and a third of the distance from the mast to the end of the spar, and the mast end much heavier than the other. The making of the jaws has been described in a previous article (Harper's Round Table, No. 818). The thickest part of the gaff should be about a third of the distance from the mast. The sprit should be about the same thickness throughout its entire length. In the yard rig the thickest part of the yard should be in about the same relative position to the mast as it is in the gaff.
A DOUBLE-END CLAM-BOAT.
Turning now to the rigging of the boat; the only one of the rigs requiring halyards is the fore-and-aft sail (No. 5). The method of threading can readily be understood from a study of the sketch. No. 5 (Plate II) is only practicable for a small boat, but No. 6 is more suitable for a larger one. About the only other thing requiring mention in the rigging are the different methods of reeving the sheet rope. No. 1 and No. 2 are the simplest, the only difference between them being the positions of the fastened ends. In the first the end is secured to the boat, and in the second it is fastened to the boom. The device shown in the third sketch is a trifle more complicated. The fourth one is the most intricate of all, but has the least drag on the sheet, as every time the rope passes over a wheel in a block by so much is the pull diminished. This rig requires the introduction of a double block on the traveller, and perhaps a snatch block to ease the pull when close hauled.
As blocks have been mentioned, perhaps it would be as well to say that small galvanized iron blocks can be procured at very little cost, and will accomplish all that is required of them. Of course, if the boat's owner is inclined to spend more money, wooden blocks will make the rigging neater and run easier. Travellers are used to fasten sheet ropes to the boat, and may be made in two ways, either out of iron or rope. The iron traveller in this case is an iron rod carrying a ring to which the block is attached, bent down at the ends, which are threaded and fastened with nuts through the stern. The rope traveller is a strong cotton rope, the ends fastened on each side of the boat, and the rope passing through a ring on the lower side of the block. In the rigging may be also included the cleats for belaying the halyards and sheets. For the halyards, and for purposes where it is desirable to fasten the rope securely and for some time, a cleat shaped like E is best; but if it is desired to fasten the rope temporarily, or to use it as a means of breaking the pull on the rope, the jam-cleat F is the most efficient, a turn or two causing the rope to jam. Leaving the rigging, we will turn to the boat proper.