The plate may be cleared from the silver by a white light, but it must be immersed in the sensitive bath by a red light and dried in the dark, as it will discolor if exposed to the light. To make a positive picture on this prepared plate one must have a positive from which to print, and a paper print may be used, if one does not wish to make a positive on glass.
Print till the shadows are a deep brown and detail well out, then wash in clear water till all the brown tone has disappeared, and set the plate up to dry. When dry immerse in a color bath composed of ½ oz. of China blue, ¼ oz. of oxalic acid, and 1 pint of water. The plate should be left in the coloring solution till it is a deeper tint than desired when dry, then wash in several changes of water till the water shows no trace of the coloring matter, and dry in a place free from dust. Place a cover glass over the film side of the transparency, and bind first with adhesive strips, which can be bought ready prepared, and then with ribbon, or one may use the frames which are made specially for transparencies.
Any color may be used instead of the China blue. Dragon's blood, carmine, green, mauve (which makes a beautiful violet tint), or any color which one prefers. It is very little trouble to make these transparencies, and they repay one for the work.
A member of the Camera Club asks how long eikonogen may be kept if it is placed in a tin box; what kind of pictures are the best for prizes; how engravings can be copied on celluloid; how to take a picture with the camera pointed toward the window. Eikonogen crystals are best preserved in a tightly stoppered glass bottle. Eikonogen in solution may be kept a long time by the addition of acid sulphite of soda, if the bottles are filled full and well stoppered. Glass stoppers are better than corks. The kind of pictures which are best for prize competitions depends on the style of pictures for which prizes are offered. If the prize is for figure studies, a single figure is better than a group, and a simple subject much more attractive than one "dressed up" for the occasion. In landscape pictures an extended view, unless unusually fine, rarely wins even honorable mention. In making landscape studies, for the picture as a picture, one cannot do better than to study the best works of landscape artists, which are always to be seen through photographic copies. It will be noticed that painters follow the advice of Sidney Smith, and "take short views." Will our correspondent please explain what he means by "engravings copied on celluloid"? To take a picture with the camera pointed toward the window use a non-halation plate and a small diaphragm. One way in which to take a picture with the camera pointed toward the window is to take a picture with the curtain or shutter closed, then open them and make an exposure for the window which is, of course, much shorter than for the interior. Our correspondent sends this formula for eikonogen developer, which he says keeps a long time, and gives more contrast than most developers: Sulphite of soda crystals, 180 grs.; hot water, 6 oz. When thoroughly dissolved add 60 grs. of eikonogen. No. 2. Carbonate of potassium, 75 grs.; water 2 oz. To develop take 3 oz. of No. 1 and 1 oz. of No. 2. In preparing eikonogen developers the ingredients should be added to hot water, and the eikonogen left till all the rest are dissolved.
Miss Sara L. Merrick asks how to print photographs on writing-paper, and if plain salted paper can be bought ready sensitized. Plain salted paper cannot be bought ready prepared, but it is easy to prepare after the formula given in the Round Table, Nos. 796 and 803. To print on writing-paper, sensitize a strip at the top of the sheet of paper, using unglazed paper, then print as on any other paper, taking care that all parts, except where the picture is to appear, are covered with black needle paper. The whole of the sheet can be put into the toning solution, or simply the part sensitized.
Sir Knight Stephen W. Hurst, Newark, N.J., asks for directions for making lantern slides. Sir Stephen will find directions in Nos. 798 and 799 (February 12 and 19), and later we shall give some new ideas on making and using lantern slides.
Sir Knight John Dunham asks how to transfer a negative of a steamer to another negative. A note was sent to Sir John asking him to explain just what he wished to do, and the query would be answered, but the letter was returned, though bearing the address given, 1733 Vine Street, Philadelphia, Pa. If Sir John means transferring to a clean glass, directions will be found in No. 856; if not, will he kindly write again and explain a little more fully what he wishes to know? There is no process by which a negative can be transferred by electricity.
Miss Flora J. Wheeler wishes to know what kind of a camera to purchase, as she purposes to learn photography. A hand camera is usually considered best for the beginner, as it is much easier handled and managed than a tripod camera. A 4 by 5 is a good size to begin with, and the lens may be used both for scenery and for making figure studies. Most amateurs, unless far advanced in the art, use only two lenses—one for portraiture, and the other for out-door work. The beginner should use one lens, and learn what it can do and cannot do before trying different lenses. With every camera directions are given for its use, and also for developing and printing. The papers for beginners published in the Camera Club column will be found helpful. No. 1 was published in No. 812 (May 21, 1895). Any questions which Miss Wheeler wishes to ask in regard to her work will be answered in this column.
Sir Knight Frederick G. Clapp asks what makes the zigzag streaks on the film of a negative after it has been intensified, and if the yellowish-olive color to which the plates turn when intensified should wash out. Did Sir Frederick soak the negative in water before immersing it in the intensifying solution? The plate should be soaked till the film is wet, and when placed in the intensifier it should be kept gently moving so that the chemicals may act evenly. Try this method, and let the editor know the results. The olive color of the negative does not always wash out, but, unless too deep, does not injure the printing qualities of the plate.
Sir Knight Henry Wens, who asks for formula for stripping films from broken plates, will find full directions in this number of the Camera Club.
LETTERS FROM PRIZE-WINNERS.
Sir Knight Joseph Lovering writes: "Please accept my thanks for the check for $15 which you sent me for the prize in the photographic contest. I did not expect my picture to take a prize, and I was very much gratified when I received your letter." Sir Joseph took first prize in marines. Sir Joseph also asks if he will be allowed to compete next year, and if it is allowable to enter pictures in more than one class. Yes, to both questions.
Sir Knight Luke Murdock writes: "I received the prize sent me by Harper & Brothers, and although I tried to have my pictures look as nice as possible, I was much surprised that I took a prize. I was very much pleased, and I thank you heartily, and will endeavor to spend the money to the best advantage in a photographic line." Sir Knight Luke took second prize for Junior figure studies in Junior Class. His picture was entitled, "I Won't Stand Still."
Mrs. Nils Holm, Patron, who took second prize in figure studies Senior Class, writes that she never competed before, and was both surprised and pleased at her success, and should make more vigorous efforts than ever before.
