Any questions in regard to photograph matters will be willingly answered by the Editor of this column, and we should be glad to hear from any of our club who can make helpful suggestions.
Owing to the large number of questions requiring answers, the Department this week will be entirely made up of them.
Sir Knight A. U. Smith, New Jersey, asks what is the matter with a negative when the picture can hardly be seen, and the film is so thick that a print cannot be made from it. The plate has been over-developed—that is, left in the developer so long that the film has become too dense. An over-developed plate can be reduced by using the following formula, called Farmer's Reducer: Ferricyanide of potassium, 3 grs.; hypo, 30 grs.; water, 4 oz. Wash the negative till the film is thoroughly wet, then place in the reducing solution for two or three minutes; wash, and if not reduced enough repeat the operation. It is better to make two or three trials than to leave the plate in the solution too long. Wash the negative thoroughly and dry as usual. Mark bottle "poison."
Sir Knight John H. Curtis asks if an under-exposed plate can be remedied after it is fixed. An under-exposed plate can be strengthened after fixing by the following method. Make up three solutions as follows: No. 1—bichloride of mercury, 120 grs.; chloride of ammonium, 120 grs.; distilled water, 10 oz. No. 2—chloride of ammonium, 120 grs.; water, 10 oz. No. 3—sulphite of sodium crystals, 1 oz.; water, 9 oz. Wash the plate for half an hour, and then place for ten minutes in a five-per-cent.-solution of alum and again wash for half an hour. Place in a developing-tray, and flow enough of No. 1 over it to cover it; the negative will turn white. As soon as it is white or nearly so turn off the solution, rinse the plate, and flow with No. 2 for one minute. Rinse again and cover with No. 3, and let it remain till the negative has turned a dark brown or black. Wash for an hour or two and dry. Solution No. 3 can be returned to the bottle after using, but the others had better be thrown away after use. Remember that these solutions are very poisonous, and mark the bottles, and put them away in a safe place when not in use. Number the bottles No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3.
Sir Knight J. M. Koller wishes to know if pictures sent for competition must be burnished. It is not necessary, and unless it adds much to the appearance of the picture one does not care to have pictures burnished. The mat-surface papers are very easy to use, and do not require burnishing.
Sir Knight Samuel R. Boucher, Jun., Box 68, Gravesend, L.I., says that he will send formula for developing and fixing ferrotype plates, and directions where the plates may be obtained by any amateur who wishes to make ferrotypes.
Sir Knight D. M. Bell wishes to know as soon as possible how to make photographs of microscopic objects. The explanation and directions would take up too much space in the "Answers to Queries"; but we shall soon publish two or three papers on microscopic photography, giving full and plain directions which the amateur will have no trouble in following.
Sir Knight Trebor Robyat asks the best way to take a picture from a photograph. He says that his camera takes a picture 3¼ by 4¼, and the photograph which he wishes to copy is about 4 by 5. The picture must be placed exactly parallel with the lens, and an easy way to make a copy, where one has not a copying stand, is to take a board about six feet long and fasten a wooden box at one end of the board, and use the side or end to attach the print to be copied. Then place the camera on the board as near the picture as possible, and have a clear focus. This simple way of adjusting the camera saves much trouble in trying to get the camera and picture exactly parallel. The copy will be quite small if made from so small a print as the 4 by 5. Sir Knight Trebor also asks for formula for making blue-print paper. Formulas for blue paper may be found in Nos. 797, 823, and 828, with suggestions for its use.