On cabs I use the same priming as on tanks, let stand five days, putty nail holes and "plaster putty" hard wood, and give two coats lead, mixed as follows: 100 pounds keg lead, 19 pounds Reno's umber, 3½ quarts japan, 1½ quarts varnish, 6 quarts turpentine. I call this "No. 2 lead," and allow 24 hours between coats, then apply a coat of No. 2 "rough stuff" at 7 A.M. Rub down at 10 A.M. two coats color, and varnish before 6 P.M. Striped and lettered next day and finished on the following day if it is not taken away from me, and put on the engine. Time, eleven days. Can be done in five days.
On castings, same priming, putty and "No. 2 lead" if time is allowed. I use rough-stuff No. 2 on all flat places, rub down and give two coats of No. 2 lead. Also painting inside of all castings, and sheet iron casings; and inside of boiler jacket, with "Prince's metallic."
All castings I get ready for color before they are put on the locomotive, except such as have to be filed or fitted on outside edges. As there is very little time given to finish a locomotive after the machinists get through, I usually finish it the day before it is done.
As a sample (one of many), an 8--17--C. locomotive boiler tested Saturday afternoon, August 12, boiler painted, with 120 pounds steam on, wheels put under, boiler covered, cab put on, and finished Monday, August 14, at midnight (did not work Sunday); primed, puttied, colored, lettered, and varnished same day. After 10 o'clock at night the painters have a chance, and it is their glorious privilege to work until morning. The machinists have all the time there is, the painters have what is left.
So much for the ordinary way. For a quicker method of painting tanks I send a sample marked No. 1. Time, including first coat varnish, five days. Priming, 1 pound Reno's umber to 2 quarts pellucedite; two coats rough-stuff, composed of umber and pellucedite, rubbed down, and thin coat of pellucedite; one coat drop black, one coat rubbing varnish; exposed to weather (southeasterly exposure near salt water) March 12, 1879; revarnished one coat, finishing September 1, 1879; remained out until March 22, 1880. Total exposure, one year and one and a half weeks; thrown around the shop until August, 1882; has been painted three years and six months. This is not a sample of good work, but of quick and rough painting. Considering the time and usuage it has experienced it has stood much better than I expected, though I cannot safely recommend that kind of painting when any other can be followed.
Sample No. 3--Time, including two coats varnish, 14 days. Painted as described in first part of this article; exposed in same places as No. 1, April 3, 1880; total exposure, six months; has been painted two years and five months.
The above are not exactly "Thoughts on Locomotive Painting." What my thoughts are would require several dictionaries to express; but that is owing, not to the kind of work, but having to produce certain results in a time that will not insure good, durable work.
For removing old paint on wood I use a burner. From iron, I have found the quickest and most effectual way is to dissolve as much sal soda in warm water as the water will take up, and mix with fresh lime, making a thick mortar; spread this on the tank, about an inch thick, with a trowel; when it begins to crack, which will be in a few minutes, it has softened the paint enough, so that with a wide putty knife you can take it all off; then wash off tank with water. This takes off paint, rust, and everything, including the skin from your hands, if you are not careful. Plaster one side of tank, and use mortar over again for the other side.
Engine oil used to brighten smoke stacks, no matter with what painted, will cause blistering. Tallow and "japan drop black" mixed, and apply while stack is hot, with an occasional rubbing over with the same, will remain bright a long time.
Rust always contains dampness, and will feed on itself, extending underneath and destroying solidly painted surfaces. It is, therefore, necessary, in order to secure good results, that the rust should be killed before priming, or that the priming be so mixed that it will assimilate with the rust and prevent spreading.