In the large diagram, the distance, A C, on the horizontal line corresponds to the distance, N B, on the instrument. At A erect a vertical line, and mark upon it a point B such that B C shall be exactly eighteen times any convenient unit, B I. In the illustration B C is 26 inches, and B I is 11/2 inches, so that B C is 27 inches in length. About C as a center describe the arcs, B L, I K, and through I draw a vertical line, cutting B L in D; draw the radius D C, cutting the inner arc, I K, in J, through J draw another vertical, cutting B L in E, and so on.
In the triangles, A B C, 1 D C, 2 E C, we have B I = D J = E F = 1/18 of the hypotenuse in each case, therefore the bases, A C, 1 C, 2 C, are divided in the same proportion, as required, at the points 1, 2, 3. And we might extend the arcs, B L, I K, and repeat the above operation until all the frets were located. But should that be done, the diagram might become inconveniently large, and some of the intersections might not be reliably determined. In order to avoid this, the spacing of the outer arc may be stopped at any convenient division, as L. The vertical by which that point is determined cuts B C at B', and through B' a new arc, B' L', is described. Through the points in which this arc cuts the radial lines already drawn, a new series of verticals is passed, which will divide another portion of A C as required, and by repeating this process the spacing of the whole neck may be effected by a diagram of reasonable size.
GLOVE MAKING.
Glove making is almost a century old in this country, having been begun in the neighborhood of Gloversville and Johnstown, N.Y., about 1803. Until 1862 the manufacture of gloves in Fulton County, although even then the chief manufacturing industry, was of comparatively small importance. Gloversville and Johnstown were then quiet villages of from three to four thousand people. The flourishing establishments of to-day, or such of them as then existed, were small and comparatively unimportant. In 1862 the stimulating influence of a high protective tariff showed itself in the increased business at Gloversville, Johnstown, and the adjoining hamlet, Kingsboro. These became at once the leading sources of supply for the home market gloves of a medium grade. The quality of the product has steadily improved, and the variety has been increased, until now American-made gloves are steadily driving out the foreign gloves. The skill of American glovers is equal to that of foreign glove makers, and in some respects—notably in the quality of the stitching, and, in some grades, the shape—the American gloves are the best. Foreign expert workmen have been drawn over here from the great glove centers of Europe, so that the greatest skill has been secured here. The annual value of the glove industry in Fulton County has reached about $7,000,000.
One hundred and seventy-five glove makers and 20,000 people in Fulton County draw their subsistence directly from glove making. Some of the firms have a business reaching from $100,000 to $500,000 yearly. The majority, however, have small shops, and do a small but profitable business. Most of the work in Fulton County, as abroad, is done at the homes of the workers. The streets of Gloversville and Johnstown are lined with pretty and tasteful homes, in which the hum of the sewing machine is constantly heard during the working hours of the day, but the workers are exceptionally fortunate in being able while earning good wages to enjoy all the comforts and surroundings of home, and in being practically their own masters and mistresses.
Before the leather can be cut and sewed into the handsome articles that are sold over the counters of the retail dry goods houses and furnishing goods stores as gloves, the skins from which they are made must be specially prepared. The two important points in this preparation are the removal of the albuminous portion of the skin and the retention and chemical changing of the gelatinous part, so that it shall become pliable, elastic, and resist decomposition.
There are various methods which produce these results, and they are technically known as tanning, alum dressing, oil dressing, and Indian dressing. Each method produces a leather distinctly different from that produced by any other. All the preliminary processes of these various methods are alike in principle, although they vary somewhat in detail. The object in all is to remove the hair from the hide, separate the fleshy and albuminous matter, and leave only the gelatinous, which alone is susceptible to the chemical action and can be transformed by it into leather.
When the skins are received in the factory they are thoroughly soaked to open out the texture and prepare them for the removal of the hair. Then the skins are placed in vats of lime water, where, for two or three weeks, the lime works into the flesh and albuminous matter, and loosens the hair. The skins having thus been properly softened, the dirty but picturesque operation of beaming for removing the hair ensues. Before each beamer, as the workman is called, is an inclined semi-cylindrical slab of wood covered with zinc. The skin is first spread upon this, and the broad, curved beam of the knife glides across it from end to end, scraping and removing all the loosened hair, the scarf skin, and the small portion of animal matter adhering to the skin.