Entering again the Big Boom en route to Mo-Tappan, we made good time, stopping at a few villages along the way. No missionary is in all this country. We stopped overnight with one Mr. Collier, who carries on trade near the river, in a place called Marketah, people’s market. It was Saturday night, and he was very busy closing accounts for the week. Our reception was a cordial one. We spent the Sabbath here and were much pleased to see what is doing for these benighted people. We had services at eleven o’clock, which the natives attended. It was interesting, and I feel that a good impression was made. Such meetings—I mean those consisting of reading of the Bible, commenting, etc.—are held regularly by Mr. Collier for the community. They surely can do a great deal in helping on the good cause. It were better and safer for trade, if religious instruction were in all this country. This part of the Big Boom is often visited by the horrors of war. Whole villages are sometimes laid low in one night, the inhabitants put to the sword or carried off into slavery. These wars are not waged because the aggressors have been in any way wronged by the attacked, but just for the sake of plunder. It is now something over a year since war visited this part of the Big Boom, but it has left its signs. Villages that were deserted are being rebuilt. Traders are resuming their business, and peace is gradually returning to all this region.
We left early Monday morning, having spent a pleasant Sabbath with our friends in Marketah. The current became stronger as we advanced toward the interior. The winds were adverse, so our progress was somewhat like the missionary work, slow. We had long since left mangroves, with their malarial swamps. That we were getting some distance from Sherbro was visible from the very appearance of things. The farther we advanced into the interior, the more uneasiness seemed to be depicted on the countenances of Africa’s enslaved children. Africa is her own greatest enemy. War and slavery curse her most, bring misery where happiness might reign. When you launch out of British jurisdiction, slaves are common. This traffic is carried on by the natives themselves, and the biggest man owns the largest number of slaves and has the greatest number of wives.
Polygamy is common, where men are able to support more than one wife; but you may rest assured that when means of support give out, the women are found giving out too.
This day’s travel brought us to Baikal, a strongly barricaded town. We did not go inside, but the music and noise within showed plainly that Ham’s sons and daughters here were having a good time in a country dance.
MO-TAPPAN, SALEM HILL, LAWANA.
We rested overnight, but early next morning pushed on for Mo-Tappan, the extreme interior Mission station held by the American Missionary Association. We stopped at villages along our journey, where signs of late wars are still apparent. Each man is armed with either sword or cutlass. I am told that they keep these near them in time of peace to fight with, but in time of war they wrap them up in mats, give them to their wives, and ask their feet to save them by flight. The Mendi people are treacherous and cruel in war, and not at all brave. I hope the time may soon come when all this region will enjoy peace and righteousness in God.
This country is elevated, with beautiful bills stretching away into the distance. We enjoyed the fine scenery. About ten o’clock we reached Salem Hill. The massive walls built here by the former missionaries are still standing, but the place is so covered with shrubbery and vines that it is with great difficulty that access to it is obtained. The Hill and scenery are splendid, but this foundation, of no use to any one, made us feel sad, everything around looked so forlorn. The large village that once stood near has disappeared, as so many African villages and towns have done. Along toward night we reached Lawana, where we remained overnight. Here, though several years’ labor was given to this place, no sign of past missionary work is visible. The place was captured in war; the inhabitants, all but a few who were ransomed, were put to death or sold into slavery. Our resting place here was not large, nor was it very comfortable. The chief was not seen until our return from Mo-Tappan. He evidently feared us, because the portions of country where wars are numerous are often or sometimes visited by the English to ask the people to keep quiet.
We left early next morning for Mo-Tappan, arriving there about 9 o’clock. The place is now a regular canebreak. The tomb of the late Mr. Brooks is the only thing that reminded us that the white man had been here. Our stay was short. No one at all lives here now. It was broken up by war.
“We now retraced our steps for home, stopping at Lawana. We then saw the chief, who gave us a cordial welcome. Three children were brought home by us to be trained for future workers. The current carried us down quite rapidly. We stopped at but few places on our return; our Mission is well known in all this country, and it will be easy for us again to gain footing in former places held by the American Missionary Association. Large outlays are altogether unnecessary; plain houses, on cheap plans, are things for a country so subject to changes from war.
The real Mendi people are here, and I hope that the banner of Christ will soon again in triumph wave over the strongholds once held by our Mission. Pray that we may be guided in attempting to extend our work, and that everything may be done to His honor and glory.