DR. LADD’S JOURNAL.
The space in the Missionary will only admit of a few extracts from the remainder of this long journal. Much that is interesting we are obliged to omit. The time from Jan. 7th till Jan. 24th was busily spent in Khartoum. A small steamer was finally obtained, and our missionary explorers in the face of many discomforts and much danger pushed on up the Nile through the territory occupied by El Mehdi till they reached their objective point in Central Africa.—Ed.
Tuesday, Jan. 24th.—We fired up early. Crowds stood on the bank to see our steamer off. We started at 10:30 A.M. The views of Khartoum as we steamed down the Blue Nile were fine. The junction of the Blue and White Niles is very marked. The difference in color, and the line of demarcation are remarkable. The current as we rounded the point was very strong, for here the whole broad Nile is reduced to a very narrow channel, and our little steamer had all she could do to make headway. As we got beyond this point the river became very wide and the banks low. We were obliged to share our “hole” with an officer, who was one of the few who escaped from Mohammed Achmet at the time of the second slaughter. “He ran away and lived to fight another day,” and now he acted as though he were the hero of a hundred battles. We had a poor captain and not very good men, but a fine, energetic pilot. At 9:15 we anchored near the east bank in a position of comparative safety. We put up our mosquito nets and spread insect powder with a free hand, hoping to mitigate some of our troubles.
Wednesday, Jan, 25th.—No sleep; too many discomforts. The “Hero” kept up an incessant groaning. Our only hope was that he might die before morning. Doctor threatened to shoot him, and I stood ready to get him acquitted on the ground of justifiable homicide or of “insanity.” Started about sunrise. The river was like a great inland sea. There were thousands of ducks and geese. Mourgan and the mate both managed to tumble into the hold to-day. It was a wonder that they did not break their necks. The mate had to come under the doctor’s care. About sundown we stopped for wood. We went ashore in a boat as far as it could go, and were then carried to dry land. While on shore the mate was taken very ill with the fever, and lay on the ground in a most miserable condition. We got him on board, and the doctor took him in charge. The cockroaches are eating up everything, books and papers, etc. The water has come in at the port-holes, although we have stuffed them as well as possible, and has made the bedding damp. It is several inches deep under the floor, and have to look out and not step through a loose board into it. The mosquitoes may succeed in eating us up if they keep on. It appears to be only a question of time. Therm., S. R., 62°; M., 87°; S. S., 71°.
Thursday, Jan. 26th.—No sleep! The groans of the “Hero” and the bumping of the tiller, both “beyond control,” were too much for us. We left at 11 A.M. There were crocodiles in vast numbers along here and ducks by the thousands. From the steamer deck we shot great numbers. Finally the men got tired going after them. But what a feast they had. We also caught several large fish, but none of them are fit to eat taken in this water. Anchored for the night at Dooaim, a large town, evidently doing a good business, judging from the number of ships and boats that are here.
Friday, Jan. 27th.—Started at about 6 A.M. Had a good view of the town as we steamed slowly out. Arrived at Kowa at 10:30 A.M. This place was for some time the southern limit of the Soudan provinces. It is a very large town, and is now the southern terminus of the telegraph line. There is a low island opposite, but the town itself stands up high and dry on the desert. Here again we were invited to see a “fantasia,” but declined with thanks.
My face is still peeling from the effects of the Korosko Desert.
On the way to Fashoda the travelers passed the island of Abbas, where Mohammed Achmet, the “False Prophet,” first distinguished himself, saw his village and the spot where the first slaughter occurred. They stopped at various other places of interest on the way, and had a variety of experiences. They studied the towns and the people in passing, and although generally well received, they had some difficulty to get wood, on account of the hostility of the Shillooks. They became acquainted with the African fever among the swamps, and were only too glad to reach Fashoda.
Friday, Feb. 3d.—The steamer stopped, before we awoke this morning, for wood, as it will be impossible to get it at Fashoda on account of the hostile Shillooks. Started at noon with a small supply. Arrived at Fashoda, within the territory designated by Mr. Arthington, at 2:30 P.M. Saw naked natives fishing along the bank. There are three villages with conical straw roofs to the north of Fashoda, but near it, which first came in sight. The “Dragomen” reside in these. We have a plan of Fashoda, which will give a better idea of it than any verbal picture. We shall also take some photographs of it to illustrate a more detailed account in the report. For this country the place is well fortified. We could not anchor off the main land, as the water was too low, but tied up to an island opposite the town. The other steamer and a few boats were lying here. Several Dinka villages were just visible with the glass on the east shore. On our arrival an officer came on board to search for slaves! He proposed to examine our boxes. But we told him there was no custom house here. He might look for slaves, but he could not examine any of our baggage. He found it was no use, and went off. What a farce this suppression of the slave trade is! Men will live in Fashoda, and draw good salaries to suppress the slave trade. When a steamer comes in, like ours, from Khartoum, they will come on board and look for slaves! While right back of them is a regular caravan route, over which thousands are carried every year, and they go on their way, and no questions are asked! It looks well to have an officer in uniform examine government steamers, and make a show of great things! We sent our letters and orders up to the Governor pro tem., but he and his aid were already on their way to call on us. We found them very pleasant and friendly.
Saturday, Feb. 4th.—There was much noise and loud talking and confusion in unloading the steamer. This would have been a good steamer for Mohammed Achmet to have captured, as we brought down 20,000 Turkish dollars, besides powder, cloth and soap. Took several views of Fashoda as seen from the deck of the steamer. The Governor sent us a present of two sheep, a quantity of chickens, and a couple of baskets of vegetables. We noticed here for the first time a species of crow with a white breast. The Dinkas on the east shore are said to be quiet and friendly. Fashoda is considered by everybody to be one of the most unhealthy spots on the White Nile. * * The town is surrounded with a thorn zeriba, and is built up, outside of the fort and the officers’ quarters, of round cane huts smeared with mud and thatched. The Shillooks, who come from the neighboring villages to trade and visit, are tall and well built. The faces of the men and women are much alike, as the men carefully pull out all the beard they have. The women generally wear the skin of some animal loosely suspended from the left shoulder. The men, when they come to town, wear a piece of cotton cloth thrown over one shoulder and wound around them. I called a few moments on the friendly and generous Governor. He walked with me to the boat, while the soldiers presented arms and the band played “All confusion worse confounded,” which is their national air. It sounds best at a distance, say of five miles or more. The Governor does everything he can for us. He has even sent us some wood from the scant government stores. Witnessed a most brutal flogging from the deck of the steamer. Such an outrage would not be possible anywhere but here. I stood it as long as I could and then was about to interfere, when some of the men standing around drew off the man. There are great numbers of hippopotami around here; we hear them all about us toward night; I counted fourteen that I could see at one time. The Governor proposed to send a guard of soldiers with us to the Sobat, but we finally concluded that we would rather rely upon our own arms than have any such guard as he could furnish.