Thursday, April 13th.—Up at 4 A.M. Started at 5:45. We have had a long tramp over plain after plain, on and on to the mountains and through a high mountain pass till, at length, we have reached the wells of Arieb. It is very hot. Crowds of camels, cattle and donkeys are around the principal well, all drinking. The water is not very good, but we drink it and try to imagine that it is. The tents are up, and after a good bath we tumble into our cots, glad of a little rest.
Friday, April 14th.—Up early, and left at 6:30 A.M. Followed the wady, which is full of rocks and stunted trees, and then traversed an immense plateau. We camped for noon in a sandy spot, just before entering another pass. At 5 P.M. we were off again, and passed some very picturesque and really wonderful granite formations. Traversing a fine hard gravel plain, which gave us an extensive view, we passed the half-way mark, a huge pile of granite boulders. We then came into a mountain region, said to be infested with robbers. It is true that here, not very long ago, a caravan was attacked in the night and robbed, and some of the parties killed. We had come a long journey, the place was convenient for camping, and some one proposed that we should spend the night here; but the guides manifested great fear, and would not give their consent. They said it was bad enough at the wady Kokreb, but under no circumstances would they stop this side of the wady. Some of us were ahead of the caravan, and we took the advice of the guides, and pushed on for the wady. Soon after arriving and selecting the spot for our camp, and while waiting for the caravan to come up, we were visited by a couple of suspicious-looking men, who asked a few questions, and after looking us well over disappeared in the bush. The guides said they were spies of the robbers, and advised us to fire off our guns and revolvers, to let them know that we were well armed, which we did. In about half an hour the rest of the party and the caravan came up. They reported having met twelve mounted men, who acted suspiciously in the dark. Mr. Moussalli called to them in Arabic, and demanded who they were and what they wanted. They admitted that they were robbers. They were then told that our party was all armed, and that if they came near the caravan they would get into trouble. We formed our camp in a circle, spreading our baggage around us for a protection as best we could, and then went to sleep with our hands on our revolvers, trusting for our safety, now that we had done what we could, in Him who never slumbers.
Saturday, April 15.—Examined the wady Kokreb to ascertain whether there was water to be found here, which I suspected, but which the guides denied. Found that there was a well a little way up the wady, which we passed soon after starting. The guides seem to find it easier to tell a barefaced falsehood than to speak the truth. For some reason or other they are determined to deny the existence of water at various points along the route, where we know it is to be found. Left at 6:30 A.M., and followed the wady, which is quite full of trees and rather a pleasant part of the journey. Towards noon we arrived at Kokreb, where there is a well and a station. We spread the fly of our tent over some old posts for a protection from the sun. The sheik of the station kindly (for a consideration) procured us a good drink of milk. Here we met a number of caravans. There were many pilgrims among them returning from Mecca. One woman, who was supposed to be irresistible, was sent among us to beg. We offered her some food, which she indignantly refused. The well here is shallow, and is emptied as fast as it fills. We left at 4:20 P.M., passing through a wild, narrow defile in the mountains. The scenery here is extremely wild and picturesque. We ascended now very rapidly, and the sight of the mountains in the purple glow of sunset was magnificent. As night came on it began to grow intensely cold. We camped at a great height. The cold was extreme. We got out our tent-flies and crawled under them.
Sunday, April 16.—This morning we killed a scorpion that was found under the Consul’s saddlebags. Saw several gazelles. Again we are obliged to travel much against our wishes. There are trees along the wadys all the way, now. Met many long caravans carrying American oil to Berber and Khartoum. Camped at 10:30. At 4:30 we were obliged to start again. The mountain scenery here is grand! Toward night we entered a narrow gorge, running North and South, between two high mountains. Here we had to keep a sharp lookout in the dark, lest we should be left, like Absalom, hanging from a tree. These overhanging thorn trees did, in fact, rather mar Mr. Moussalli’s beauty, but the rest of us dodged and preserved ours. We found several wells in between these two mountains, and here we camped for the night. This is also a dangerous locality, on account of robbers. The nights are very cold in these mountain heights.
Monday, April 17.—Up early and examined the so-called wells of Haratree. They consist of places scooped out in the gravel of the dry bed of the river, and are only from two to five feet deep. There is also a pond near a large rock, where one may bathe. There are many aloes in this valley, and doves in great numbers, and in at least three varieties. On quitting this gorge the rise is very rapid till a pass is reached at an elevation of 3,000 feet. I am the only one who is not ill to-day. Camped at 11 o’clock in a large plain under a huge mimosa tree in the bed of a small river, now dry. When we started in the afternoon there was a little trouble with a Hadendoah Arab, who had “appropriated” one of our camels, but his claim was soon settled, and he was glad to slink out of sight. Off at 4 P.M., and traveled through quite a park, where rabbits and gazelles abound. Camped at night at “Durse,” or “The Mountain of the Molar Tooth.”
Tuesday, April 18th.—Left at 6:30 A.M., and arrived at the Wells of Disibil, where we found a rude shelter from the sun. I walked the whole distance. Saw several gazelles. The wells are in the dry bed of a river in a mountain valley. Only one is used now, the other having filled up. After lunch went hunting after gazelles, and when, later in the afternoon, we at last reached the rest of the caravan, we found them camped earlier than usual. We are now in the valley of Sinkaat. We know that we are nearing the sea, for the night air is very damp, and our clothes are wet through.
Wednesday, April 19th.—Had a good laugh this morning at the Consul, who roused us during the night by loudly challenging some parties who were prowling around the camp. They proved to be a couple of innocent donkeys. Off as usual at 6:30, and followed the valley and the river-bed. Camped at 10:30 at the well of Hambouk. The water was not good. Left at 4 P.M. Came into a fine plain full of green trees, and singing birds, and flocks of goats. Passed the wells of Otaou (water bad) without stopping. At last we emerged from the mountains, and came to the spot where we ought to have a fine view of the sea, but it was dark. We camped finally on a broad plain, though the drivers protested that we ought to go on beyond; but they were informed that we intended to stop there, and that was the end of the controversy. It is damp and warm to-night. Ibrahim, our dragoman, is ill.
Thursday, April 20th.—Midani and an Arab started this morning at an early hour ahead of the caravan for Souakim, to inform our friends of our arrival, and to prepare a place for us. We started at 5:30 A.M. The first object to attract our attention was the sea, the beautiful blue sea! What a thrill of joy that first sight of the sea sends through one coming from Central Africa! It is a bond of connection with the outer world. It is the highroad of commerce and civilization. It is the avenue of hope, and love, and life! As we approached Souakim we had fine views of the white, shining, coral city. It was not long before we discovered with our glasses a steamer lying in the harbor and another coming in. We took off our hats and hurrahed like school-boys. Soon a delegation of friends came out to meet us, among whom were M. Marquet’s son and Mr. Midani’s brother. At last we entered the city. Doctor’s camel was afraid, and had to be led in. We passed through the bazaars, and over the causeway, and through the big gate into the city proper, which is built on an island. The appearance of the town is quite dazzling, as every portion of it is built of white coral. We noticed some fine specimens in the walls as we passed. We went directly to M. Marquet’s new house, not yet finished, where camping room had been assigned us in the open yard, and here we sat down by the sea waiting for the caravan to arrive. Finally we retired into the entry of the unfinished house, where, as soon as our baggage arrived, we spread our cots, and took up our quarters, and paid off the camel drivers, who, for a wonder, went away contented. There has been rather a serious misunderstanding between some of our friends. It takes considerable self-control to keep quiet and calm and cool amid the discomforts and annoyances of a journey like this. Our first and great want was a bath, and this was soon arranged in one of the upper rooms of the new building. Then we put on some clean clothes, and felt as if we had been born again. We made several calls, and finally went, by invitation, to dinner at M. Marquet’s (brother of the gentleman of the same name at Khartoum), where we spent a very pleasant evening. A small steamer coming in to-day ran into our steamer of the Rubattino Line and broke her mast. There are three steamers now in harbor, an unusual thing for Souakim. We cannot sail before Saturday....
Saturday, April 22.—Up and on deck early; friends off to say farewell; started at 9 A.M.; had breakfast on deck. All our meals are to be on deck, as it is so warm below. Had a fine view of the town as we steamed slowly out of the harbor. The channel is a tortuous and difficult one. Coral reefs abound on every side. But after a little careful turning and twisting we were out on the sea—the boundless sea. Oh! what a delight to be at sea again, and breathe the refreshing salt air, after our experience during the last few months! We have pleasant companions, and the voyage promises to be an enjoyable one. At dinner conversation is carried on, and jokes are cracked in French, English, Greek, Arabic, and Italian. The captain is a pleasant, jovial, able man, and our steamer is good and comfortable.