Miss Julia A. Goodwin.
Everything here is new to us, and we enjoy the country-like city in its irregularity, broad streets, steep ascents and descents, its profusion of flowers, especially its roses. Then it is a real pleasure to compare the workings of the school and church with our own. We think we could not accomplish what these teachers do who are obliged to teach some of the time——two of them in one room, each conducting a recitation at one and the same time; but they work admirably together, without a particle of friction, and are a very happy family. Mrs. Lathrop’s sewing-school is also very interesting. As we walked into the room last Saturday morning, two old ladies, who were sewing just as busily as the children, arose from their seats and came across the room to greet us. One of them, whose sprightly manner and unwrinkled face would never have betokened her great age, said to us: “I am ninety-two years old if I live till Monday. I can’t do much, my hands are so stiff; but I thank the Lord that I can come here and sew a little;” and she showed us her patch-work squares with as evident satisfaction as any of the younger pupils. Ninety-two years old and learning to sew! Ah, thought I, most old ladies are through with their needle at that age. These sewing-schools must bring some comfort into many homes.
AFRICA.
MR. LADD’S JOURNAL.
Saturday, Dec. 3.——We started from Assiout at five o’clock this morning on our voyage up the Nile. The air to-day has been wonderfully fine. The landscape, too, has presented a constantly varying panorama full of novelty, full of interest, full of beauty. We have called for a few moments at a number of villages to leave the mail. We have been peering through our glasses, as we sat under the awning on deck, at the natives along the banks in their varied costumes, and in almost no costume at all, at the high bluffs, which in some places rise abruptly from the river, and at the wonderful tombs with their hieroglyphic inscriptions cut out high up in the rocks. The river is full of boats of one kind or another coming and going.
Sunday, Dec. 4.——One misfortune of travel on the Nile is that any discussion of the weather becomes monotonous and trite. Every day is like every other day, beautiful, bright and balmy. No church bells ring for us to-day, so our thoughts naturally turn homeward. The views, as we slowly steam up the river are charming. We pass some bold headlands, call, as yesterday, at many villages by the way, and witness many interesting and peculiar scenes. A fringe of “shadoofs,” with half naked men hard at work at them watering the crops, keep up a constant creaking. We notice also great numbers of birds of every size and shape. We tie up for the night at Keneh, celebrated for its porous jugs, its dates, and once on a time, its dancing girls, whom the march of civilization has driven higher up the river.
Monday, Dec. 5.——We have seen something of what is left of the great city of Thebes, its magnificent temples, its stupendous halls, its wonderful colossi, its interesting tombs——Karnak and Luxor, on one side, Gourna on the other. It is hard to realize what pomp and splendor were once displayed among these ruins, still so grand in their desolation. The strong current of the river got the best of us to-day. The steamer in rounding a point could not be made to obey her helm, and before we knew what was going to happen, with full steam on we ran bunt up against and on to the steep bank. The men pushed and grunted, and finally we got clear and righted up again. We have witnessed a nearly total eclipse of the moon this evening, soon after it rose, which for the manner in which it came on and went off was very remarkable. We could hear the natives in their villages trying to frighten away the dragon which was supposed to be swallowing the moon. We tied up at Esneh for the night. Here we went ashore with torches and lights to visit a portion of a temple, which is in an excellent state of preservation. I first went to see the Mudir to get him to telegraph for us to Korosko for camels. He had retired for the night, but as our business could not be transacted at any other time, I sent in our orders from Cairo, and he soon appeared. Coffee was served, our papers made out, viz.: An order to the governors of places where we might call within his mudirieh to show us proper attention, and a telegram signed by the Mudir to provide camels for us at Korosko. Then joining the rest of the party we visited the temple. The top of it is only a little above the successive deposits of ages, and one has to descend a long flight of steps to reach its floor. It is completely covered with sculptured work, which is finely preserved. This, however, is only the portico of the real temple, the entrance to which is walled up.
