Friday, Jan. 6.—Good breeze. Passed several rocks and small islands. Rounded a large island and entered a wild romantic gorge, with rocky mountains rising high on each side straight from the river, which is here reduced to a very narrow channel. This winding gorge, or gap, extends several miles, and it is called Sebeloga. Came to and circled the largest island we have yet seen, called Rowyan. There is a rocky mountain upon it. Passing out from the gorge there are a few rocks in the river. On our left, or east bank, we saw a round mountain called Wad El Bassal, or “Son of the Onion.” The wind has been fair and square astern, but the men have managed the sail so badly that it has actually turned inside out. This is not the safest performance in a strong wind, and we thought it was about time to take things into our own hands and ordered the sail around where it ought to be, and threatened to take full charge of the boat. We have found two men on board without our permission, but concluded to let it go. At one watering-place we saw 25 flocks of sheep, goats, cows, etc., averaging 300 in a flock! We have left the mountains behind us. While sailing along before a good breeze all of a sudden the main brace broke and over went the sail, nearly upsetting the whole thing and knocking everybody overboard. We are growing resigned, and are now ready for almost anything. Once more, after getting things straight again, the sail, with a fair wind, was allowed to turn inside out!! The wind went down, and we went ashore. After awhile it blew again, and we were off. Passed the bluff of Termaniat. Thermometer to-day: Sunrise, 60°; noon, 81°; sunset, 70°.
EGYPTIANS OF UPPER EGYPT.
Saturday, Jan. 7.—Fine breeze. Sailed at good speed. The banks here were lower, and the river broader. Low hills to the right. We were approaching Khartoum. There were several islands, and then we got a long view up the White Nile. We rounded the point of a large island, and turned into the clearer waters of the Blue Nile. The flags were up, and we expected to sail into Khartoum in grand style, but the wind was so strong from the north that we had to be towed up along the steep southern bank. We went bumping along, running into everything that it was possible to run into, amid a babel of sounds. Everybody seemed to think it necessary to yell at everybody else. Amid the confusion, as we were coming smash down upon another boat, Ibrahim called to two well-dressed young fellows, who were lounging on the other boat, to help push off. They heard, but were too lazy to move. He waited till he was near enough, and then suddenly pounced upon them with his stick, and dealt them several sharp blows. One fled precipitately one way, and the other jumped into the river. I did not know but he would drown, but he soon reached the bank, where the crowd had a good laugh at his expense. All along the shore native women, with only a rag on, were washing clothes; some without a rag on were washing themselves. Finally we reached our landing-place, and tied up. We had reached Khartoum at last! The American consul, a rich, one-eyed Copt, stood on the bank waiting for us. He soon came on board. Congratulations and compliments were exchanged. He offered to do anything and everything for us. We told him the first thing we wanted was our letters. They were sent for at once. I had seven! We sat right down and devoured them. Not a word had we heard since leaving Cairo, and now here was a feast. Better than cold water to a thirsty soul was the good news from home. We went, at the consul’s invitation, to see the quarters he had kindly provided for us in one of his own houses. The rooms were really very nice for this country. On the whole, our first impressions of Khartoum were very pleasant. There was no apparent reason why it should not be healthy if properly cared for. The desert stretched away on all sides, both on the north and south banks of the Blue Nile. There seemed to be considerable business along the river bank. There were crowds of merchant boats loading and unloading. There were eight steamers lying here. We noticed a number of very good buildings facing the river. We have just heard of a formidable insurrection south of here, on the White Nile, and in the vicinity of Fashoda, in which 600 or more soldiers have already been killed. After returning to our dahabeah, the consul sent us a present of oranges, pomegranates and milk. After a while he called again with several others. He certainly showed himself very anxious to please us. He has placed his house at our disposal, free of charge, for any length of time we choose to occupy it. He and his suite waited for us till after dinner. Then we packed up what was necessary and, following the lanterns, went up to our new quarters. Here every possible comfort had been very thoughtfully provided. The doctor kindly insisted on my having the best room as a sort of “divan,” or place in which to receive company. A guard was provided for us, who slept at our door, as the rest were to stay on board over night. Three pretty gazelles were running about the yard in the moonlight, and looking in at our doors. Temperature: Sunrise, 60°; noon, 81°; sunset, 74°.
THE CHINESE.
LETTER FROM REV. W. C. POND.
More Hoodlumism.
Not more than I expected, but enough to make one blush with mingled shame and indignation. At several of our schools scarcely an evening has passed for some weeks in which the pupils have been able to come and go unmolested. To hear the report of this does not greatly stir the blood perhaps; but to see a bright little boy, child of a Christian father, himself growing up in the knowledge and love of Christ, because his skin has a tinge slightly deeper than our own and his dress is not in our style and the stock of which he comes is Mongolian and not Caucasian, stoned by half-a-dozen cowardly youths, no one of whom would dare attack a Chinaman of his own size on equal terms, and then to see the wound, deep and bloody, close to the eyes, that one of the stones has made; seeing all this, I cannot but feel that I “do well to be angry.” One of our teachers has been rebuked by a so-called preacher of the Gospel, to whom she herself had listened in one of our Congregational pulpits, for teaching Chinamen. And the pastor of one of the churches of California having in it Chinese members was told by a prominent member of his church: “I would rather see them hung up by their queues than baptized and brought into the church.” When facts like these come to my knowledge I confess that I am dismayed; not so much, however, for those who are wronged as for the wrong-doers. I tremble for California and for some of the churches of California when I remember that God is just.