CYCLAMEN PERSICUM.
Cyclamen plant in blossom.
We wish to call attention to this beautiful and easily grown flower, both on account of the ease with which it can be cultivated, especially as a window plant in a cool room, and the abundance of flowers which it will yield in the months of January and February, when flowers are greatly appreciated. Probably many of our readers are not familiar with it, and therefore in order that they may have a better idea of its general appearance than can be given by any description, we have obtained, through the courtesy of Mr. Jas. Vick, of Rochester, N. Y., the accompanying engraving, which is a very accurate representation of the plant in flower.
The Cyclamen can be propagated successfully only from seed, but as that is a somewhat tedious process, requiring two, and sometimes three years to produce corms of sufficient size to flower, the process of raising them will not now he dwelt upon. The corms, already grown to sufficient size for flowering, can be purchased of the nurserymen and florists for fifty cents apiece, and when once procured, with proper treatment, will last many years. They are called corms because they are solid and not formed, as bulbs are, of imbricated scales.
Most persons will purchase their Cyclamens when in flower, and therefore we commence our hints on their culture at this point. When you have brought them home, place them in the window, as close to the glass as possible, where they will have abundance of light; they do not require much heat, even when in flower; indeed they flourish better and hold their flowers longer where the temperature is not raised higher than sixty-five. They should be watered with care, not allowing the soil to become dry, nor, on the other hand, to be kept soaked with water. When they have finished flowering, they should be slowly ripened off, withholding water gradually, and exposing them fully to the sun and air. After they are thoroughly ripened, it is the writers practice to plunge the pots into a bed on the north side of a building or tight board fence, where they will be sheltered from the full power of the sun. The pots are plunged deep enough to cover the corms with soil to the depth of a couple of inches. Here they can be safely left until September, unless mice find them, if they do they will surely devour them. About the first of September they should be taken up, knocked out of the pots, and repotted in fresh soil. Do not use large pots, one that will receive the corm nicely is large enough, the same pot often answering for two or more years. A soil composed of well-rotted turf, decayed leaves, and sand, in about equal parts, will be found well adapted to them. The addition of a little pounded charcoal, or soot from the chimney, is thought to add to the depth of color of both leaves and flowers. In potting, put plenty of broken crock or bits of charcoal in the bottom of the pot, so as to give it good drainage, then fill with soil and plant the corm so that the top of it will be level with the rim of the pot, and one third of it above the surface of the soil; now water sufficiently to settle the soil, place them in a cool, shady place, where they can be protected from frosts, if frosty nights should come, and water very sparingly, only giving sufficient to keep the soil damp. When the weather becomes so cool that it is prudent to take them in, put them in the window where they can have plenty of air and light, but where the thermometer will not indicate a temperature above fifty degrees, and continue to water them sparingly. In watering do not pour the water over the corm, but on to the soil below. Some place the pots in saucers, and give water when needed by pouring it into the saucers. The great secret of success lies in keeping the plants in a cool temperature until they begin to bloom, and not allowing the soil to become overcharged with water. When they begin to bloom they may be allowed a temperature as high as sixty-five°, and will require to be watered more freely.
The leaves of Cyclamen Persicum are heart shaped, toothed on the edge, dark green in color with marblings of gray. The flowers are raised above the foliage on long foot stalks, as shown in the engraving, and are either white, with a rosy purple centre, or rosy lilac throughout, with a deepened shade at the centre. They are very free bloomers, the individual blooms continue a long time, and the succession is kept up for months. Mr. Vick says of them, very truly, in his catalogue, “They are particularly adapted for window culture, and will give more flowers with less trouble than almost any plant with which we are acquainted.”
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CONOVER’S COLOSSAL ASPARAGUS.
We have not been able to see any marked superiority in the Conover’s Colossal Asparagus over that in use long before Conover was born. Some of the best samples of this new sort were sent to the exhibition of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society a few years ago, but they were badly beaten by the common sort, which was both larger and heavier, though it laid no claim to being colossal. Cultivation will make colossal buds, neglect will make but pigmies, in this as in everything else.