GIRLS’ WINTER DRESSES IN WOOLLEN MATERIALS.
Of course, as the sales are going on, there is little that is novel to chronicle. Indeed, the winter events, where all that is pretty in dress are seen, are the private views of the two great picture galleries—the Royal Academy and the Grosvenor Gallery. At these two places all the élite and the famous in literature, art, and society congregate; and generally wear their prettiest clothes, I think. Of course, some æsthetic ladies are to be seen. One of them had on a pelisse of moss-green velvet, made very short-waisted at the back, with a small round cape, the skirt hanging long, straight, and full; in short, much like a “Kate Greenaway figure,” and very peculiar was the effect. One lady wore a brown cashmere, with pea-green trimmings, and flowing ribbons of pea-green, which, I suppose, must have been an artistic fancy. The great difference between the artistic and æsthetic dressing is in the way the dress is cut at the neck. The artistic portion bares its throat bravely, at any and every age, and cuts its dresses well down on the collar-bone; while the general public wear high neck-bands, and try to reach the tips of their ears; assisted by big beads and ruchings of satin. At present neither class affects collars, unless the falling lace of the æsthetic lady can be mentioned in that category.
There was a great deal of brown worn, relieved by yellow, and also much green in various shades, the most popular being moss-green and a new hue called “jade.” There was also a good deal of heliotrope, and that always in woollen materials; so I should not be surprised if we found this hue in vogue in the spring. It is extremely becoming to many people. Black jackets and mantles are worn with it, and also black bonnets with heliotrope trimmings. Black plush is the most popular material for small or large mantles, and it seems, in any case, to be very much trimmed all over—shoulders especially. Amongst these artistic ladies the bonnet-strings are usually tied very loosely, resting on the throat, while everyone else in the “Philistine” world—as, I believe, it is nick-named—still wears theirs tightly tied under the chin, with short ends, and the bows tied under the chin, and so much pulled out as nearly to touch the ears, one loop being ornamented by a brooch or pin, generally jewelled.
Red in all shades was also much worn. In some cases it was quite a bright scarlet; but I did not think the idea a happy one. I looked very carefully at the numberless so-called tailor-made suits, and, after all, admired the wearers—neat, trim and tidy—the most. They were of all materials—ladies’ cloth, cheviot, homespun, and undyed Shetland cloth. Many of them were suitable for any season of the year, as, indeed, the true tailor-made gown should always be. The newest thing in them that I saw was a skirt put on in three immense box-pleats, so big that one formed the front, and the two others were enough for the back and sides, the skirt itself being quite plain and free from any ornament whatever. The newest muffs seemed to be those made of the material of the dress. The trimming was of fur, plush, or jet passementerie.
Amongst the few changes in fashions I must mention that the basques to bodices for everyday wear seem to be longer, and in some cases they are put on separately to the bodice. Polonaises also are becoming very general, and, no doubt, in the spring we may see a great return to them—certainly the most becoming and useful of any of our dresses. The polonaise that was illustrated in our dress article with the pleated bodice will be much in vogue, and also a smockfrock polonaise that is very pretty and becoming, but, of course, would need the smocking performed in the first style of that difficult art. This makes it rather expensive, and the houses who make a speciality of the work find it far from easy to get good workers, and, consequently, these smocks are expensive.
This winter there has been so much choice in the matter of styles and shapes that nothing can be called “old-fashioned,” and I am looking forward with hope to the long wished-for day when our own individual thought will, in a great measure, rule our fashions, and make us much happier in having less to worry ourselves with, if our gowns prove not exactly like Mrs. A.’s or Mrs. B.’s; and that they bear the mark of last year, or even of the year before. So long as they suit us personally, it really ought not to matter.
PRINCESS DRESSING GOWN.
This year mantles have been either very large or very small, and bonnets have been both remarkably high and almost hoodlike in shape. Hats, too, have been small and close-fitting, or large and spreading. As to our dresses, we have worn polonaises, pointed bodices, and jacket-bodices quite indiscriminately. Norfolk blouses have been also much worn, and they promise also to continue in favour, as they are most useful for young and old. The same may be said of the jersey bodice, and the so-called garibaldi skirts. In regard to out-of-door jackets, I should think the same tight-fitting, jaunty-looking jackets will rule such as we have worn for the last two seasons. They are too useful to be discarded as permanent occupants of our wardrobes.
In our sketch of “girls’ winter dresses in woollen materials,” I have carefully given every method of draping the skirts and making the bodices that has been worn this winter; and I consider most of them will be continued on until the spring, as the “wrapping style” of which the drapery hangs in straight folds, and as if wrapped round us, is very popular with everyone; and people seem to have grown tired of the skirts which were made of pieces of material. The skating picture, too, shows the general effect of out-of-door dresses during the cold weather; and the way in which fur was used by the best dressmakers and tailors. The dresses are more graceful, and less heavy-looking than usual, when trimmed in that manner. We do not often have such a cold winter as the present has been hitherto, and I hope my readers have applied themselves to learn the lessons of sensible and hygienic clothing which I am constantly preaching to them. Armed by it, they would have successfully resisted the cold, and escaped unharmed. I am more and more convinced that most of the illnesses and deaths of our winters arise from want of sensible clothing, and from the fact, too, that we are all accustomed to regard England as a temperate climate, when in reality the cold is more felt here, on account of its dampness, than in severer latitudes.