By “THE LADY DRESSMAKER.”
Those who are interested in the protection of birds, and object to their being killed to serve as mere ornaments for hats and bonnets, will be glad to read from the New York Times an account of the recent inventions and changes brought about by the great demand for feathers for the decoration of masculine headgear during the late war.
The trade in feathers amounts to many millions of pounds annually, and the supply of the birds furnishing them is decreasing so rapidly, that it was essential that substitutes should be found; and the American inventor has proved himself equal to the occasion. The supply of ostrich feathers from California is so ample that it has brought the price of feathers down to a reasonable figure, but still not low enough for the low prices that are asked for them. So there are plenty of good ostrich feathers manufactured of celluloid, of which the quills are made, while the barbs are of silk waste. These are so skilfully dyed and curled that only an expert could distinguish them. Other expensive feathers and plumes are made out of silk and cotton waste; and enormous quantities of poultry feathers are utilised, and are so exquisitely dyed and painted that these imitation plumes are more in demand than the real ones of the wild birds. A remarkable machine has been invented, and is in use for plucking the feathers from the dead poultry, which strips them of their feathers in just half a minute. Then the plucked feathers are passed rapidly along to another small room, where a current of air sorts the very fine from the heavy ones; and the very lightest and softest are used for pillows; but all the others find some use in the millinery trade. This state of things has made poultry quite wonderfully profitable.
TWO SPRING GOWNS.
The first things I must mention are the white muslin, and white and cream washing silk blouses, which seem to be quite as fashionable this year as they were at any time during the last two years. They are made this year chiefly with a very small bishop’s sleeve and a tiny cuff. Tucks with lace insertion between them seem to be the style, when some form of yoke is not chosen. This last way of making both dress bodices and blouses is very evident in all the new models. The shape is narrow and long, extending over the shoulders, and tucks are the most popular decoration. Lace insertion is also seen on cambric and cotton shirts, and I notice that vertical stripes are much used for all the cambric ones. The muslin blouses have a fitted under-bodice of muslin, or batiste in colour, to wear underneath; and the skirt should be of cashmere, to match this in colour. The neck and waist-band may be of moire, or of satin, either to match the skirt, or in white. The latter, however, is said to make the waist look large. In a sense, blouses are not as fashionable as they were, for they are no longer seen in the evening as they were. A pretty evening gown, with the bodice and skirt alike, is more distinctly in the last mode.
In the way of dresses, everything just now seems to be of cloth, and very fine ones are made up for evening dress. Many rows of stitching seem to be the method of trimming most followed; and strappings of the same cloth for day dresses. Cashmeres and figured mohairs, gauzes, and plenty of new grenadines are in prominent view; the latter are beautiful in their designs, floral patterns as well as stripes being seen. Coloured silks will be more worn than black ones, as under-dresses for them; and I hear that deep flounces will be the new way of making up.
It has always been a funny thing to me to see the way in which men will bravely attack the corset, and issue orders against it. These attacks are made periodically, at intervals of about eight or ten years; and all kinds of accusations are hurled against the offending corsets during the assault. But, like Tennyson’s ever-quoted “Brook,” they go on for ever. Here and there one may find some woman who has dismissed them, but, as a general rule, women are not much affected by the clamour. Lately two fresh attacks have been made, one by the Russian Minister of Public Instruction, who, after paying many visits to schools and gymnasia for girls, has decided that the corset is not conducive to the health of its wearers. So he has issued an order to the pupils of the higher schools and gymnasia, as well as to the students at the Conservatories of music and art, prohibiting the wearing of them, and with the order goes a long paper, in which are the reasons for the prohibition. At the same time, on the other side of the Atlantic, a brave assemblyman in Wisconsin, has introduced a resolution into the State Legislature: “Resolved that three members be appointed to form a committee to draft a bill to protect the health of the misses, old maids, and married women of the State of Wisconsin, by making a law to prohibit tight lacing.” Now, who is to find out the tight lacers? One pities the police if they are to perform these duties! And while I am mentioning this, I must not forget to chronicle that the new spring makes of corsets are distinguished by straight fronts, the chief shaping being done at the sides and hips.
The reign of the toque seems to be more secure this spring than ever. Indeed, the bonnet, pure et simple, with strings, is nowhere, except for very elderly people. Plateaux of straw and crinoline are much used to pinch into any becoming style; and all kinds of fancy straws in every hue are prepared for toques. Many floral toques are seen, and only one kind of flower is used to make them. It has been quite remarkable this year how early the most summery-looking hats have been worn. Rose-covered ones were seen as early as the beginning of March, and plenty of white ones in the Park. All the new toques are full and high in the front, with some scraggy-looking tips straying upwards; and to many people they are not becoming, the essence of a toque being, I think, the snugness and closeness of its fitting to the head.
In the way of colours for cloth costumes, I see all shades of grey, stone and drab, petunia, and blue of several shades, but I should say that greys are the most popular. Mauve toques and hats are really becoming a kind of uniform; they are so much worn; and every second woman wears violets.