JERUSALEM AND THE MOUNT OF OLIVES FROM SCOPUS.
We once witnessed a touching sight in the Church of the Sepulchre. Four hundred of these peasants, all middle-aged and very old men and women, were toiling up the steps to the tomb, and with looks of rapt devotion kissing the sacred spots. One aged woman was carried on the back of her son, who tenderly kept her from being hurt. We joined them at their Greek service, and longed to be able to tell them the Gospel story in all its sweet simplicity. Their belief seemed to be a series of superstitions with very little foundation of truth. We were told that each pilgrim left with the Patriarch a gold napoleon (or French pound) as a gift. We often came across these poor peasants, sometimes in the convents where they were resting, at others in their churches, or again in the markets, and at all times found them courteous and gentle.
Space would fail, if I chronicled all our doings, but we were never tired of going into the town and watching the people. Outside the Jaffa gate, huddled together in one undistinguishable mass, were always to be found camels, donkeys, horses, dogs and lepers. The last were terrible objects, thrusting their fingerless hands into the faces of the passers-by, begging for backsheesh, and drawing attention to their frightful infirmity. Poor things, outcasts because of their awful and mysterious disease! Inside the Jaffa gate, the bazaars attracted us. The Armenian and Jewish merchants eagerly drove their bargains with their equally keen customers, who unblushingly offered a third or fourth of the sum first demanded, and seemed to spend a vast amount of time and talk but very little money on their purchases.
Mingling with the leisurely crowd of pedestrians, we noticed several dignified Abyssinians clad in spotless white robes, their commanding stature and intelligent ebony faces giving them a distinguished air which was very remarkable. Before General Gordon freed them they were slaves, now they are the "learned men" among the Moslems, and live within the precincts of the Mosque of Omar.
The markets were thronged by numbers of countrywomen, whose dress excited our admiration, for it was always picturesque and often beautiful, differing entirely from that of the townswomen. It consisted of one straight garment, cut with much simplicity of style and reaching from the neck to the ankles, with wide hanging sleeves, which could be tied back when the wearer was engaged in household work; the material of which these dresses were made was sometimes cotton, but oftener thick native silk, dark blue in colour, striped with red and yellow (the front or vest being exquisitely embroidered by the owner's clever fingers), and secured round the waist by a handsome silk scarf; over this a smart scarlet cloth jacket, with half sleeves and of no particular cut, came to the waist; this also was elaborately worked. The long embroidered veil of stout cotton, capable of holding somewhat heavy purchases, was thrown over the head leaving the face free, while heavy silver and gold coins adorned the neck, arms and forehead. Stockings were disdained, but the feet were sometimes thrust into red Turkish slippers, though more often than not, these impedimenta were dispensed with. A camel's-hair abbaye or cloak was sometimes worn for protection against both extreme heat and cold. The perfect carriage and fine figures of these women, who are guiltless of corsets, might well excite the envy of the fashionable Western lady, as with free and graceful step they walk barefooted for miles, carrying on their well-poised heads heavy water-pots, or baskets filled with market produce and livestock in the shape of cocks and hens. To the casual observer the dresses seem all alike, but a practised eye can discern at once whether this woman comes from Nazareth, or that from Bethlehem, or another from the mountains, by the set of the veil or the colour of the gown.
The townswomen affect hideous modern French fashions from Beirût, and cover their tightly-laced figures with cheap jewellery, never omitting to pin the tiny watch (which seldom keeps time) on their bodices. Coloured stockings of a fearful pattern are worn, with a charming indifference to neatness, and gay little satin slippers with high heels, and rather the worse for wear, are added. For the street the pink or blue silk dress must be covered with the universal outdoor mantle, made on one pattern, but often of rich white or coloured silk, embroidered in silver or gold. In shape it is like a very full double petticoat divided into two equal parts at the waist by a girdle—one half forms a skirt and the other is thrown over the head, making the wearer appear at the back like a huge animated cottage loaf. The maudeel covers the face. Hats are reserved for the heads of foreigners.
S. E. B.
(To be continued.)