By “THE LADY DRESSMAKER.”
Now that the sales are proceeding, there is always a lull in the production of novelties; and the shopkeepers set themselves to the work of disposing of their heaped-up stock, which, however, does not appear to me to be as plentiful as usual. This fact tends to prove that the past season, with its sunshine and brightness, was a good one, so far as they were concerned. While wending my way through several of the crowded shops, I gathered together, however, a few notes for my dress article, which show how ideas may trend in the coming days of early spring.
TWO WARM GOWNS.
I am inclined to think that the reign of the shaped flounce is perhaps nearly over. Never have its inconveniences been more shown than during the present winter, when those who wore them cut long enough to be in the fashion have been really encumbered by them, and wretched from the impossibility of holding them up. Certainly there were many who never even attempted to raise them and just simply let them drag in the dust or mud, and one shudders to think of what their feet and undergarments must have looked like, apart from the dress itself. Frenchwomen held their dresses up in the style of long ago, taking a good grip one hand on each side, the effect being most odd and funny.
Just as many blouses have been worn as ever this winter underneath the ever-fashionable coat and skirt; and at the sales there has been quite as great a rush for the remnants of silk, which are always prepared for those occasions. Nothing can be more ornate than some of the blouses and fancy tea-jackets; and there seems to be a very generally united opinion that, having a proper skirt to wear with them, they are not an extravagant purchase, as they perform so many parts and are suitable for a variety of occasions.
There are two new basques which, however, remind one more of the coat-tails of the ordinary dress-coat than of anything else. They go by the name of the “swallow tail” basque, and lie extremely flat; by no means could one wear any such thing as gathers beneath them on this particular account. They may be very long, or they may only measure about half a yard in length. The basques nearly meet in front, and are cut in one with the swallow tails; but when it is so cut, it is called by many people the “spoon-shaped basque.” However, I find in many of the French papers, as well as the English ones, that both are called by the all-covering name of Directoire—an epoch of time which describes many articles of dress of late years. I should not be surprised if these basques were much worn when the spring appears.
The fancy for wearing tan shoes has been very remarkable this winter. Rather a dark wood-shade is worn—not too dark, but darker than was in vogue last season. Both glacé kid and calf are used; and, in any case, they should be of an extra good quality, as, otherwise, they will not stand the winter’s hard wear.
I have not seen anyone “wearing the green” in walking shoes, and do not think they would be popular. The shoes and boots most liked seem to be of American make, which are said to be excellent in cut and fit, and, what is better still, to wear well; at any rate, it is the smart thing to wear them. I think the toes are smaller and sharper than ever; and the more pointed, the more stylish. One never hardly sees a small foot, for no one can wear anything but shoes far too long for them; as they really cannot become like Chinese ladies and obliterate their full-grown toes immediately!
So far as millinery is concerned, the favourite hat or toque seems to be that turned up immediately in front over the forehead, and ornamented with a rosette, and generally a paste or steel buckle, or brooch. All the very smartest toques are trimmed with some kind of fur—sable, of course, for those who can manage it, then mink, and—perhaps the most fashionable of all—chinchilla, which, however, is rather a perishable fur. All of them are trimmed in the same way, with a big bunch of violets on one side, and some feathers. But I have just seen a sable-trimmed toque with a huge spray of moss-roses or buds, having their leaves mounted in front. This admixture of flowers and fur is one of the things our grandmothers would have shivered at.