| Julius Bien & Co. |
| UPPER CASTILLO—RIVER SAN JUAN |
As a result of the absence of considerable tributaries already noted, the fluctuations of this portion of the river conform closely to those of the Lake, and consequently take place gradually and are limited in range.
Below the Rio San Carlos the San Juan changes its character entirely. Its average width is twelve hundred and fifty feet, its bottom is sandy, there are numerous islands, and the slope of the river is almost uniformly one foot per mile.
The discharge into this section of two large tributaries, the San Carlos and the Sarapiqui, descending from the steep slopes of the Costa Rican volcanoes, causes much more sudden and considerable fluctuations of level than in the upper river.
While the lower portion of the river and especially the delta section presents very interesting features, yet the peculiar charm of the river is in the upper section, and the exceptional advantages it offers for obtaining miles of slack water navigation. This portion of the river with the lake and the narrow isthmus between it and the Pacific forms a trio of natural advantages for the construction of a canal, the importance of which it would be difficult to over estimate.
About three miles below the mouth of the San Carlos, the Caño Machado enters the San Juan on the north bank. This stream, about one hundred feet wide and from eight to ten feet deep, is the last of the mountain or torrential tributaries of the San Juan. It can scarcely be said to have a valley, but occupies the bed of a rugged ravine extending for several miles northerly and northwesterly up into the easterly flank of the cordillera. Every variety of igneous rock, from light porous pumice to dense metallic green-black hypersthene andesite, may be picked up in the bed of this stream. Agates also are common and there are occasional masses of jasper. Farther up, frequent outcrops of trap in situ occur, interspersed in some localities with numerous veins of agate.
Twelve miles below the Machado the San Francisco enters the San Juan. This stream, with its several tributaries, drains a large swampy valley sprinkled with irregular hummocks and hills. For several miles from the San Juan it is a sluggish, muddy stream between steep slippery banks; higher up, flowing over a gravelly and then a rocky bed, it finally disappears in steep ravines filled with huge bowlders. The main San Francisco comes from the northwest, but a large tributary has its source to the eastward in a range of hills which separates the San Francisco basin from the immediate Caribbean water-shed. This range, unlike the ones already noted, is at heart an uninterrupted mass of homogeneous hypersthene andesite, and with one exception nothing but fragments of trap or trap in situ, is to be found in any of the streams descending from either its western or eastern slopes. The one exception is the Cañito Maria, a tributary of the San Francisco, entering it but little more than a mile from the San Juan. In the bed of this stream were abundant specimens of agates, jasper, and petrified woods of several varieties in a wonderfully good state of preservation.
This range of hills ends at the Tamborcito bend of the San Juan, four miles below the mouth of the San Francisco, and is the last easterly projecting spur from the mountain backbone of the interior. Between it and the coast there are, however, mountain masses of equal or greater elevation, notably "El Gigante" and the Silico hills, the former some fifteen hundred feet high, but these are simply isolated mountain ganglia, their innumerable radiating spurs speedily giving way to swamps or river valleys.
The streams that flow down the eastern slope of the Silico hills are, from their sources to the lowlands, of almost idyllic beauty. Beginning as noisy little brooks tumbling over black rocks in a V-shaped ravine near the summit of the hills, they rapidly gather volume and slide along in a polished channel of trap, tumbling every now and then as sheets of white spray over vertical ledges forming here and there deep green pools, and then after they have passed down among the foot-hills, rippling in broad shallow reaches over sunlit beds of bright yellow gravel. The water of these streams is clear and sparkling as that of an Alpine stream and apparently almost as cool. The insect pests of the tropics are unknown in the elevated portions of their valleys, and I have slept more than once beside one of these streams, several hundred feet above sea level, without a mosquito bar, while the delightful "trades," rustling through the trees above me, brought the murmur of the Caribbean surf miles away, to mingle with that of the stream.
The soil of this range consists, to a depth of ten to forty feet, of clay of various grades and colors, red prevailing. In the valleys this clay is almost invariably of a very dense consistency, and deep, dark red in color.