At Pontarlier, my old host, a great Legitimist during his life-time, was dead. I supped at the inn called the National: a good omen for the newspaper of that name. Armand Carrel is the chief of those men who did not lie during the Days of July.
The Castle of Joux defends the approaches to Pontarlier; it has seen two men succeed one another in its donjons, both of whom the Revolution will bear in memory: Mirabeau and Toussaint-Louverture[63], the black Napoleon, imitated and killed by the white Napoleon.
"Toussaint," says Madame de Staël, "was brought to a French prison, where he died in the most wretched manner. Perhaps Bonaparte does not so much as remember this crime, because he has been less often reproached with it than with the others."
The hurricane increased: I encountered its greatest violence between Pontarlier and Orbe. It increased the size of the mountains, rang the bells in the hamlets, drowned the roar of the torrents in that of the thunder, and swept down howling upon my calash, like a heavy squall on the sail of a ship. When low-lying lightning-flashes cracked across the heaths, one saw flocks of sheep stand motionless, their heads hidden between their fore-feet, presenting their tails tucked in and their shaggy quarters to the showers of rain and hail beaten up by the wind. The voice of the man calling the time from the summit of a mountain belfry sounded like the cry of the last hour.
At Lausanne, all was smiling-again: I had often visited that town before; I no longer know a soul there.
At Bex, while they were harnessing to my carriage the horses which had perhaps drawn the bier of Madame de Custine, I stood leaning against the door of the house where my hostess of Fervacques died. She had been celebrated before the revolutionary tribunal for her long hair. In Rome, I have seen beautiful fair hair taken from a tomb.
In the Rhone Valley, I met an almost naked little girl, dancing with her goat; she asked for alms of a rich young man, well-dressed, who was posting past with a laced courier in front and two footmen sitting behind the glittering chariot. And you imagine that such a distribution of property can exist? You think that it does not justify popular risings?
Sion brings back to me an epoch in my life: after being secretary of embassy in Rome, I was appointed Minister Plenipotentiary to the Valais by the First Consul[64].
At Brigg, I left the Jesuits struggling to raise up again what cannot be raised up[65]: uselessly established at the foot of time, they are crushed beneath its mass, like their monastery beneath the weight of the mountains.
This was the tenth time of my crossing the Alps: I had told them all that I had to tell them in the different years and different circumstances of my life. Ever regretting what he has lost, ever rapt in memories, ever marching towards the grave in tears and isolation: that is man.