It is safe to assume that the trouble is not in the magneto, and the carburetor, gasoline supply and spark-plugs should first be investigated.

If the magneto is suspected, the first thing to do is to determine if it will deliver a spark. To determine this, disconnect one of the high-tension leads from the spark-plug in one of the cylinders and place it so that there is approximately 116′′ between the terminal and the cylinder frame.

Open the pet cocks on the other cylinders to prevent the engine from firing and turn over the engine until the piston is approaching the end of the compression stroke in the cylinder from which the cable has been removed. Set the magneto in the advance position and rapidly rock the engine over the top-center position, observing closely if a spark occurs between the end of the high-tension cable and the frame.

If the magneto is of the dual type, the trouble may be either in the magneto or in the battery or coil system, therefore disconnect the battery and place the switch in the position marked “MAG.” The magneto will then operate as an independent magneto and should spark in the proper manner. After this the battery system should be investigated. To test the operation of the battery and coil, examine all connections, making sure that they are clean and tight, and then with the switch, in the “BAT,” rock the piston slowly back and forth. If a type “VN-1” coil is used, a shower of sparks should jump between the high-tension cable terminal and the cylinder frame when the piston is in the correct position for firing. If no spark occurs, remove the cover from the coil and see that the vibrating tongue is free. If a type “N-1” coil is used, a single spark will occur. The battery should furnish six volts when connected to the coil, and this should also be verified.

If the coil still refuses to give a spark and all connections are correct, the coil should be replaced and the defective coil returned to the manufacturer.

If both magneto and coil give a spark when tested as just described, the spark-plugs should be investigated. To do this, disconnect the cables and remove the spark-plugs. Then reconnect the cables to the plugs and place them so that the frame portions of the plugs are in metallic connection with the frame of the motor. Then turn over the motor, thus revolving the magneto armature, and see if a spark is produced at the spark gaps of the plugs.

The most common defects in spark-plugs are breaking down of the insulation, fouling due to carbon, or too large or small a spark gap. To clean the plugs a stiff brush and gasoline should be used. The spark gap should be about 132′′ and never less than 164′′. Too small a gap may have been caused by beads of metal forming due to the heat of the spark. Too long a gap may have been caused by the points burning off.

If the magneto and spark plugs are in good condition and the engine does not run satisfactorily, the setting should be verified according to instructions previously given, and, if necessary, readjusted.

Be careful to observe that both the type “VN-1” and type “N-1” coils are so arranged that the spark occurs on the opening of the contacts of the timer. As this is just the reverse of the usual operation, it should be carefully noted when any change in the setting of the timer is made. The timer on the dual type magneto is adjusted so that the battery spark occurs about 5° later than the magneto spark. This provides an automatic advance as soon as the switch is thrown to the magneto position “MAG.” This relative timing can be easily adjusted by removing the interrupter and shifting the cam in the direction desired.