There are three main ways of entering the “Highlands”. Finding one’s self in Sydney, take that “character” among coastal traders, the little S.S. “Aspey”. The “Aspey” makes all the harbours between North Sydney and Cape North. Make her acquaintance and she will introduce you to “Who’s Who”, for she knows all the folk who are worth knowing, from Englishtown to Ingonish and from Ingonish to Nail’s Harbour and Dingwall.
The second way to reach “the land of the Macs” is to take a train of the Inverness Railroad at Port Hawkesbury. By this road, which follows the shore-line of the Gulf side of the Island, you come immediately into the Scotch atmosphere. Scotch place-names stand out bravely from the name-boards of the railroad stations. The very scenery is Highland—mountains and mists
ON THE “GALLERY”.
BOYHOOD DREAMS OF THE DAY WHEN
“THEIR TURN WILL COME”.
along the shore side, while through the opposite windows of your car, the waters of the Gulf, spread out, like a “loch”.
The third, and ideal way to make the acquaintance of Cape Breton, is to hire an old horse and drive yourself, making leisurely trips in all directions, lingering wherever Fancy dictates, and putting up each night in any village, town or farmhouse which promises a comfortable night’s lodging.
With your own horse you are at liberty to turn in at “gates” even though no houses are in sight, and continue in faith along the road until one appears. And, when the house—a “Crofter’s Cot” transplanted—is reached, it is quite in keeping with the Highland atmosphere if only the man of the family speaks English, the women being happy in “Gaelic only”—Gaelic which they learned from mothers and grandmothers.