PRUNING. Do a little pruning in October, though March and April are the chief months. In the autumn, however, the shoots of rose-trees should be thinned out, the branches left can then be shortened a fourth of their length with advantage, as the winter’s howling winds are less likely to harm them. Standards especially require this, as when “carrying much sail” they are very liable to be up-rooted.
When the spring comes, look the trees carefully over before commencing operations, remembering that the sturdier a tree is the less it needs pruning. The knife must go the deepest in the case of the poor, weak ones. Always prune down to an “eye,” that is an incipient leaf-bud; if this is not done the wood rots.
Evergreen roses need scarcely be touched, save to cut out dead branches and snip off decayed ends.
For Teas and Noisettes also, little actual pruning is necessary. H.P.’s require the most. As a general rule for roses, if you want quality, not quantity, prune: hard, but to enable you to “cut and come again,” only prune moderately.
Dis-budding is a certain method of improving the blooms if it is done in time. It is little use to do it when the buds once begin to show colour; start picking off the superfluous ones when they are quite small, and the difference in size and shape is often amazing.
CHAPTER VIII
Enemies of the Garden
Slugs, and how to trap them—Blight or green fly—Earwigs—Wireworm—Snails—Mice—Friends mistakenly called foes.