[TABLE OF CONTENTS]

PAGE
Preface[vii]
Introduction[xvii]
CHAPTER I
THE ISTHMUS OF PANAMA
The Part of the Isthmus and the Strait in History[1]
The Isthmus of Suez and the Isthmus of Panama: The Route from Colon to Culebra and Panama[2]
View from the Hill of Ancon[9]
The Natives of the Isthmus: The San Blas Indians[13]
The English Raiders: Drake and Morgan[15]
The Canal: Gatun Locks and Lake[19]
The Great Cutting at Culebra[24]
Administration and Sanitation of the Canal Zone[26]
Failure of the French Undertaking due Primarily to Disease[28]
Commercial Prospects of the Canal[33]
General Impressions made by the Isthmus and the Canal[35]
CHAPTER II
THE COAST OF PERU
Cold Climate of the West Coast[37]
The Antarctic Current[38]
Aridity and Barrenness of the Peruvian Coast[39]
Payta: The Guano Islands[40]
Lima: General Aspect and Buildings[46]
Life and Society in Lima[51]
Mollendo and the Peruvian Southern Railway[54]
First View of the Andes[56]
The Desert of Western Peru[57]
The City of Arequipa[60]
The Volcano of El Misti[61]
Oriental Aspect of Arequipa[64]
Character of the People of Arequipa[66]
A Story from Colonial Days[69]
CHAPTER III
CUZCO AND THE LAND OF THE INCAS
Physical Character of Peru[75]
Crossing of the Andes from Arequipa to the Central Plateau of Lake Titicaca[80]
Scenery of the Valley from the Plateau to Cuzco[81]
One of the Sources of the Amazon[86]
Market Day at Sicuani: The Quichua Indians[88]
Cuzco: Its Situation and Aspect[95]
The Spanish Buildings at Cuzco[96]
The Ancient Buildings: Inca Walls[102]
The Prehistoric Fortress of Sacsahuaman[107]
Impression made by the Remains of Ancient Peruvian Work[114]
Historical Associations of Cuzco[114]
[Note on the Fortress Walls of Sacsahuaman][118]
CHAPTER IV
LAKE TITICACA AND THE CENTRAL ANDES
The Central Plateau and the Lake[119]
Inhabitants of the Plateau: The Aymará Indians[121]
Scenery of Lake Titicaca[124]
The Shrine of Copacavana[128]
Voyage to the Sacred Islands[130]
Koati: The Island of the Moon[131]
The Island of the Sun[132]
The Bath and Garden of the Inca[133]
The Sacred Rock of the Wild Cat[135]
View of the Snowy Range of Sorata or Illampu[141]
The Lake of Vinamarca[143]
Tiahuanaco and its Ruins[144]
Impression made by the Ruins[147]
Character of the Ancient Peruvian Civilization[152]
The Primitive Religion of Peru[156]
Government and the Policy of the Incas[160]
CHAPTER V
LA PAZ AND THE BOLIVIAN DESERT
Origin of the Bolivian Republic[166]
General Physical Character of Bolivia[167]
Approach to La Paz: The Barranca[168]
Climate of La Paz: The Mountain Sickness or Soroche[171]
The City and its Environs[174]
Character and Habits of the Bolivian Indians[179]
The Plateau from La Paz to Oruro[186]
Uyuni: The Great Bolivian Desert[191]
Passage through the Andes[198]
The Borax Lake and the Volcanoes[199]
View of the Western Cordillera[203]
The Desert of Atacama[204]
CHAPTER VI
CHILE
The Three Regions of Chile[206]
Northern Chile: The Nitrate Fields[207]
Megillones and Antofagasta[210]
Valparaiso[212]
Santiago[216]
Pedro de Valdivia and the Rock of Santa Lucia[218]
Chilean Society and Politics[220]
Southern Chile: Its Climate and Scenery[223]
The Coast Cities: Concepcion and Talcahuano[225]
Lota Valdivia and Corral[227]
The Araucanian Indians: Their History, Customs, and Religion[232]
Osorno and its German Colony[239]
Rio Bueno[242]
Attractiveness of Southern Chile[241]
Lake Rinihue and the Chilean Forests[244]
CHAPTER VII
ACROSS THE ANDES
The Andean Range[248]
The Uspallata Pass from Chile into Argentina[250]
Construction of the Transandine Railway[251]
Scenery on the Chilean Side[253]
The Tunnel under the Summit of the Cordillera[256]
Scenery on the Argentine Side[256]
Aconcagua and Tupungato[257]
The City of Mendoza[260]
Argentines and Chileans[264]
Return across the Mountains and Ascent to the Cumbre[267]
The Christ of the Andes[269]
Observations on the Scenery of the Andes in General[271]
Comparison with the Himalayas[276]
[Note on the Passage of the Andes, in 1817, by the Army of General San Martin][280]
CHAPTER VIII
THE STRAITS OF MAGELLAN
Discovery of the Straits, and Circumnavigation of the Globe, by Magellan[284]
Voyage of Sir Francis Drake[286]
The Coast of Southern Chile: The Sea-birds[286]
Approach to, and Entrance of, the Straits[290]
The Scenery of the Western Half of the Straits[291]
Punta Arenas and Tierra del Fuego[300]
The Eastern Half of the Straits[304]
General Observations on the Character of the Straits[305]
Their Historical Importance[307]
The Falkland Isles, their Character and Products[308]
Their History[311]
Their Scenery[313]
CHAPTER IX
ARGENTINA
The Approach to Buenos Aires[315]
Aspect of the City[316]
Society in Buenos Aires[318]
Physical Character of Argentina[324]
Inhabitants of Argentina: The Gaucho[327]
Agriculture and Ranching[329]
The Process of Settlement: Labour[330]
The Scenery of the Pampas[334]
Economic Prospects of Argentina[336]
The European Immigrants[338]
Character and Tendencies of Society in Argentina[341]
Argentina the Most Modern of South American Countries[346]
CHAPTER X
URUGUAY
How Uruguay became an Independent Republic[349]
Resources of the Country[350]
The City of Montevideo[351]
Population of Uruguay: Immigrants and Natives[355]
A Revolution in Uruguay[356]
The Whites and the Reds[357]
Causes of the Revolutionary Habit[358]
Prosperity of Uruguay[362]
CHAPTER XI
BRAZIL
How Brazil fell to the Portuguese[366]
Physical Features of the Different Parts of the Country[368]
Voyage from Montevideo to Santos[370]
Santos and the Railway to São Paulo[372]
The City of São Paulo and its People[374]
Approach to Rio de Janeiro[377]
Aspect of Rio: The Bay and the Mountains[378]
Scenery of the Environs of Rio[382]
Petropolis the "Hill Station" of Rio[384]
Excursion through the Mountains[386]
A Brazilian Forest[390]
Naval Mutiny at Rio[395]
Economic Resources of Brazil[402]
The People: German and Italian Immigrants[405]
The Negroes and Indians[407]
Recent History of Brazil[410]
Character and Tendencies of the Brazilians[416]
The Future of Brazil[420]
CHAPTER XII
THE RISE OF NEW NATIONS
The Colonial Empire of Spain divided into Sixteen Republics or Nations[423]
What is a Nation?[424]
Process by which New Nations Arise[426]
The Administrative Divisions of the Colonies the Basis of the Division into Republics[427]
Influences which differentiate Nations[429]
Geographical Position[429]
Physical Environment: Climate[430]
The Aborigines: Their Number and Character[432]
The Struggle for Independence and the Civil Wars[434]
Recent Economic Development: Immigration[437]
Which of the Republics have become Nations?[438]
Chile and Argentina: Mexico, Peru, Brazil[441]
The Caribbean and Central American Republics[441]
Does there exist a Common Sentiment of Spanish-American Nationality?[444]
Will the Present Political Divisions be Maintained?[447]
Prospects of International Peace in South America[448]
CHAPTER XIII
THE RELATIONS OF RACES IN SOUTH AMERICA
Importance of the Aboriginal Element in Spanish-American Countries[454]
How the Native Tribes came to Survive[455]
Probable Present Numbers of the Indian Population[458]
The Indians in Peru and Bolivia[460]
Present State of these Indians, Social and Religious[460]
Ulloa's Report on their Condition in the Eighteenth Century[463]
Universal Illiteracy of the Indians: Their Civil and Political Status[465]
Relations of Indians and Whites: No "Colour Line" in Latin America[470]
How the Presence of the Aborigines has affected the Whites[475]
The Negroes in Brazil[479]
Three General Conclusions regarding the Native Indians of South America[480]
It is not certain that they have injured the White Race by Intermixture[481]
Demoralization of the Peruvian Indians by the Spanish Conquest, and Subsequent Oppression[481]
Racial Repugnance not a Universal Phenomenon in the Relations of Peoples of Different Colour[482]
CHAPTER XIV
THE TWO AMERICAS AND THE RELATION OF SOUTH AMERICA TO EUROPE
Origin of the Name "America"[484]
How it came to be applied to Two Continents[486]
Some Physical Similarities of the Two Continents[488]
Some Similarities in their History[489]
"Teutonic" America and "Latin" America[490]
Divergent History of the Two Americas[492]
The Indians: The Mines: The Settlers[493]
Different Methods of Government[494]
The Two Wars of Independence[496]
The English Colonies held together while the Spanish split Up[499]
What "Teutonic" and Latin America have in Common[500]
The Contrasts between them are More Important[504]
Present Attitude of Spanish Americans to North Americans[507]
Real Affinities of Spanish America are with Some European Peoples[512]
Sympathy and Intercourse with Spain not very Close[513]
Relations are Most Intimate with France[518]
Are the South American Peoples a New Group, with a New "Racial Type"?[520]
CHAPTER XV
THE CONDITIONS OF POLITICAL LIFE IN SPANISH-AMERICAN REPUBLICS
European Views of Spanish America during and after the War of Independence[524]
Physical or Geographical Conditions affecting the Political Life[527]
Racial Conditions: The Aborigines[528]
Economic and Social Conditions[532]
Historical Conditions in the Colonial Period[534]
Historical Conditions during and since the War of Independence[536]
The Peoples of the Republics began with no Experience in the Methods of Free Government[537]
Some Revolutionary Leaders did not approve Democracy[538]
Would Monarchy or Oligarchy have been Better?[540]
Differences between the existing Republics: Three Classes of States[541]
Some have truly Republican Governments[543]
Influences making for Political Progress[546]
European Judgments on Spanish-American Republic unduly Severe[550]
CHAPTER XVI
SOME REFLECTIONS AND FORECASTS
Rapid filling up of the Cultivable Areas of the World[552]
Regions available for Settlement in South America[555]
The Temperate Regions[556]
The Selvas of the Amazonian Plain[558]
Possible Future Population of South America[563]
Elements, Aboriginal and White, in the Population[564]
Phenomena of Race Intermixture in South America[566]
No Predominant Type in the South American Peoples[568]
Spanish Americans misjudged because their Conditions at Time of Independence were not Understood[570]
Evidences of Social and Political Advancement[573]
South America has suffered from Want of Intellectual Contact with Other Countries[574]
The Spanish Race stronger on the Practical than on the Intellectually Creative Side[577]
Backwardness of Knowledge and Intelligence in the Rural Parts of Spanish America[580]
Decline in the Influence of the Church and Religion[582]
Continued Vigour of the Spanish-American Race[584]
Note I. Some Books upon Latin America[587]
Note II. A Few Remarks on travelling in South America[588]
Index[591]
Maps.[South America.]
[The Isthmus of Panama.]
[Parts of Peru and Bolivia.]
[The Straits of Magellan.]
[Parts of Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil.]

[INTRODUCTION]

Whoever read as a boy the books of old travellers in the Andes, such as Humboldt's Aspects of Nature, or pored over such accounts of the primitive American peoples as are given in Prescott's Conquest of Peru must have longed to visit some day the countries that fired his imagination. These had been my experiences, and to them there was subsequently added a curiosity to learn the causes which produced so many revolutions and civil wars in Spanish America, and, still later, a sense that these countries, some of them issuing from a long period of turbulence, were becoming potent economic factors in the modern world. So when after many years the opportunity of having four clear months for a journey to South America presented itself, I spent those months in seeing as much as I could within the time, and was able to make some observations and form certain impressions regarding the seven republics I visited. These observations and impressions are contained in the following pages. They are, of course, merely first impressions, but the impressions which travel makes on a fresh mind have their value if they are tested by subsequent study and by being submitted to persons who know the country thoroughly. I have tried so to test these impressions of mine, and hope they may be of service to those who desire to learn something about South America, but have not time to peruse the many books of travel that have been written about each of its countries.

The chief points of interest which these countries have for Europeans and North Americans may be summed up as follows:—

1. The aspects of nature.