It should be seen that the tailor gives two comfortable deep pockets, and makes a wide collar with a flap, by which it can be fastened at the neck in rainy weather. Unless the necessity of these details is pointed out, he will probably skimp cloth and work. The tailor should be consulted as to the material best suited, an explanation having been given to him of the hard wear to which it will be put. Several colleges and schools for lady gardeners have designed special costumes for their students, but although some are becoming to slim, graceful figures, they are by no means suited to all, and are somewhat too conspicuous to be really desirable.
Waterproof or aqua scutum.—This will be needed for stormy weather and night work; and the latter is preferable, as it is pleasanter to work in than a mackintosh.
Hat.—In summer, a shady, thick straw hat looks best. It should not be “floppy,” as this is troublesome in windy weather, and it must be plain, not trimmed with chiffon or flowers. A bit of ribbon round it is all that is wanted. Although a sun-bonnet is picturesque, it is hot and close, for it keeps off the air as well as the sun. The old-fashioned plan of putting a couple of cabbage leaves in the crown of the hat is not to be despised, should the heat be felt very much. For winter, a soft felt hat or cap will be required.
Boots.—This is the most important item of all, and one, curiously enough, usually neglected by lady gardeners. I often notice that students, when they begin work, wear ready-made and badly-made articles of the thickness only of paper. Boots are better than shoes, but they must be good. Cheap boots are dear at any price. If possible to afford it, they should be made to order, for a good many hours of the day will be spent in them. It is well to have a few nails in the soles; those made of aluminium are best. From 1 to 1½ ozs. will be sufficient for a pair of boots, and the difference in weight between them and the ordinary tackets is worth the extra cost.
Boots should never be blacked, but always greased. This makes them warm in winter and wonderfully cool; in summer they are then really waterproof. If they are dressed once or twice a week with Gishurstine, they will wear well, and keep soft and pliable. A 1s. tin will last a long time. Castor oil, too (the cheap veterinary kind), is also excellent. Two pairs of boots are necessary so that they can be worn on alternate days, and thus be properly dried. There is a foolish, old-fashioned rule in some gardens that the men must have their boots neatly blacked on Monday mornings. This should not be encouraged.
The best way to dry boots, when absolutely soaked through, is as follows:—Take 2 or 3 lb. of oats, and heat them in the oven; when the boots are taken off, stand them in a pail, and pour the hot oats up to the top of the polish. The oats absorb moisture, and as the boot dries they will swell, and act as a last. The same oats may be used over and over again. To clean brown boots Bucknell’s saddle soap is better than any of the patent preparations.
Stockings.—For winter wear, stockings should be knitted of soft, thick wool. Woven ones are the best in summer.
If, when the mid-day hour of rest arrives, boots and stockings are wet through, they should be changed at once. It is false economy to neglect to do this, for a rheumatic future may be the outcome. It will be found, however, that, if they are not wet, there will be less suffering from tired feet when the same stockings and boots are kept on all day. If they are removed, and a rest is taken in easy shoes during dinner time, the feet will swell, cause pain, and blisters will probably rise when a fresh pair of boots are put on for the afternoon. Beginners usually have to put up with tender feet until they become accustomed to heavy boots. For this reason, thick stockings are preferable. It will be found that camphorated Eau de Cologne cools the feet. Another and better remedy is Balm of Bethesda, which can be had from most chemists. The feet should be soaked in warm water, and while still damp a few drops of the balm rubbed in. This should be done every night until a cure is effected. It may be necessary to repeat the remedy each spring when the first warm days arrive.
IN THE GARDEN AT FORTFIELD HOUSE, TERENURE, CO. DUBLIN.