[220] In Aikin’s “Life of James I.,” p. 205, we have a curious account of the monopoly of gold thread, that had been granted, with others, to George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. The thread was so scandalously debased with copper as to corrode the hands of the artificers, and even the flesh of those who wore it. This adulterated article they sold at an exorbitant price, and if they detected any one making a cheaper or better article, they were empowered to fine or imprison them, while a clause in their patent protected themselves. The manufacturers of this base metal thread were two Frenchmen, Mompesson and Michel, and Edward Villiers, the Marquis’ brother, was one of the firm. Doubtless they drove for a time a roaring trade, as gold embroideries were then universally worn, both by men and women; but the House of Commons interfered, and the monopoly was abolished.
[221] Mitre of white satin, with two figure subjects in flat gold—the martyrdom of St. Stephen, and that of St. Thomas of Canterbury.
[222] The School of Gold Embroidery at Munich produces work of a richness and precision which has, perhaps, never been excelled. The raised parts of the design are first cast in soft hollow “carton,” and the gold is worked on it and into the recesses with the help of a fine stiletto, which pioneers the needle for each stitch. This is embroidery “on the stamp,” but without padding.
[223] Bock, “L. Gewänder,” vol. i. p. 48. Prizes are offered at Lyons for the best mode of manufacturing gold and silver thread that will not tarnish.
[224] Yates says, pp. 160-162: “Whether silk was mentioned in the Old Testament cannot, perhaps, be determined. After fully considering the subject, Braunius decides against silk being known to the Hebrews in ancient times (‘De Vestitu Heb. Sacerdotum,’ i. c. viii.).” The contrary opinion is founded on the passage, “I clothed thee with broidered work, and shod thee with badger-skins. I girded thee about with fine linen, and covered thee with silk” (meshi).—Ezekiel xvi. But the translation is disputed.
[225] “Code of Manu,” xi. 168; xii. 64. Yates, “Textrinum Antiquorum,” p. 204.
[226] Auberville, “Ornement des Tissus,” p. ii.
[227] Yates (pp. 173, 174) believes that “Cos” should always be read for Cios, about which there seems to be some confusion. Chios has also been substituted for the name of “Cos,” the island.
There is no doubt that the Roman ladies obtained their most splendid garments from Cos—perhaps of wool as well as of silk.
[228] Birdwood, “Textile Arts of India,” ii. p. 269.