LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

CUTS.

Fig.Page.
[1]20Egyptian corselet. Wilkinson’s “Ancient Egyptians,” p. 332.
[2]25Tabernacle of Balawat. Temp. Shalmaneser. British Museum.
[3]30Zoomorphic Celtic pattern.
[4]32Pallas Athene attired in the sacred peplos. Panathenaic vase, British Museum.
[5]62Wave pattern.
[6]63Key pattern.
[7]63Metopes and triglyphs.
[8]73Persian carpet. Egyptian symbolic patterns.
[9]91Gothic sunflower. R. S. A. N.
[10]98Wave.
[11]104Egyptian ally and enemy. Temp. Rameses II. Wilkinson’s “Ancient Egyptians,” iii. p. 364.
[12]105Assyrian crenelated pattern.
[13]107Gothic type of trees, Bayeux tapestry.
[14]111Radiated pattern.
[15]111Radiated sunflower.
[16]112Shell pattern.
[17]112Balcony pattern.
[18]115Varied adjustments of square and circle.
[19]146Spangles.
[20]195Needles.
[21]208Feather patterns. Egyptian.
[22]216Application. Egyptian. Auberville’s “Tissus.”
[23]217Embroidered border on mantle. Crimea. “Compte Rendu.”
[24]281Babylonian or Chaldean house and furniture.
[25]311Italian fifteenth-century pattern. Celtic type.
[26]377Barbed quatrefoil.
[27]380Holbein pattern. Sampler.
[28]388Arms of Embroiderers’ Guild; given by Queen Elizabeth.
[29]393Portion of James II.’s coronation dress; from an old print.

PLATES.

PlatePage. Ref.
[Title-Page.] Penelope at her loom, reproached by her son Telemachus. From vase found at Chiusi, in Etruria. “Monum. d. Inst. Arch. Rom.” ix. Pl. 42.
[1]22[93]Assurbanipal (Sardanapalus). Sculptures from Nineveh. British Museum.
[2]22[93]Portion of royal Babylonian mantle. From Layard’s “Monuments,” Series i. pl. 9.
[3]29 St. John. From King Alfred’s Celtic Book of the Gospels. Lambeth Palace Library.
[4]30 A page of the Book of St. Cuthbert, or Book of Lindisfarne.
[5]33 Silver Bowl from Palestrina. From Clermont Ganneau’s “Journal Asiatique, Syro-Egyptien-Phœnicien.”
[6]40[93]Empress Theodora. Ravenna Mosaic.
[7]42 Italian Embroidery, fifteenth century. South Kensington Museum.
[8]43 Italian and Spanish orphrey, sixteenth century.
[9]45 Plâteresque Design. Spanish coverlet, green velvet and gold, sixteenth century. Goa work.
[10]87 Wave Pattern. 1, 4, 9, 12, 13. Greek wave pattern. 2. Key or Mæander Greek wave. 3. Greek broken wave. 5, 6, 7. Egyptian smooth and rippling wave pattern. 8. Mediæval wave. 10, 11, 14. Babylonian and Chaldean. 15. Persian or Greek, from glass bowl, British Museum. 16. English wave (or cloud). Durham embroideries, tenth century.
[11]88 Simple Patterns. 1. Persian. 2. Lotus border, Egyptian.
[12]90 Lotus Borders. 1. Indian. 2, 3. Egyptian. 4, 5, Greek. 6. Indian.
[13]95[102]Indian Lotus. 1. With Assyrian daisy. 2. Lotus. 3. The egg and tongue, or Vitruvian scroll from Vignola. “Regole di Ordine di Architettura.”
[14]91 Sunflower Pattern. R. S. A. N. Nineteenth century.
[15]92 Portion of a page of the Book of Kells. Dublin University Library.
[16]93[114]Demeter. Greek fictile vase. British Museum.
[17]93[217]1. Greek Embroidery, 300 B.C. From tomb of the Seven Brothers, Crimea.
2. Egyptian painted or embroidered linen. The cone, bead, daisy, wave. Lotus-under-water patterns are represented on this fragment.
[18]93 Egyptian Tapestry weaving finished with the needle. British Museum.
[19]97[114]Egyptian key patterns. Wilkinson’s “Ancient Egyptians,” p. 125.
[20]99[101]Trees of Life. 1, 2, 3. Assyrian. 4. Sicilian silk. 5. Mediæval. Birdwood’s “Indian Arts.”
[21]101 Trees of Life. 1. Sculpture over gate of Mycenæ. 2. Sicilian silks; Persian type.
[22]101 Lotus merged into Tree of Life. 1. Split Chinese Lotus. 2. Split Persian Lotus, from a frieze by Benozzo Gozzoli. Ricardi Palace, Florence. 3. Petal of flower. Greek glass bowl from tomb in Southern Italy.
[23]101 Trees of Life. Sicilian silks. Auberville. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 10. Persian type. 6, 7, 8, 9, 11. Indian type.
[24]101 Tree of Life transformed into vine. Modern pattern of work from the Principalities.
[25]103 Typical Crosses. 1. Swastika fire-stick cross. 2. From Greek vase, British Museum, 765 B.C. 3. Sectarial mark of Sakti race. India. 4. Sectarial mark of Buddhists and Jainis. 5. On early Rhodian pottery. 6. Egyptian prehistoric cross. 7. Tau cross. 8. Mark of land, Egyptian and Ninevite. 9. Mark of land, Egyptian and Ninevite. 10. Clavus, “nail” or “button,” or sun-cross. 11, 12, 13. Scandinavian sun and moon crosses. 14, 15, 16. Celtic. 17. Chrysoclavus. 18, 19. Stauracin patterns. 20. Norwegian. 21. Runic. 22. Cross in Temple of the Sun, Palenque. 23. Scotch Celtic cross. 24. Cross at Iona. 25, 26. Runic and Scandinavian crosses. 27. Cross diapered on Charlemagne’s dalmatic. 28. From mantle of Henry II., Emperor of Germany.
[26]103 Prehistoric Crosses. 1. Greek. Pallas, with plaited tunic worked with Swastika. 2. Greek. Ajax playing at dice with Achilles. Cloak embroidered with Swastika and other prehistoric patterns. Fictile vase, Vatican Museum.
[27]105 Assyrian Carpet carved in stone, British Museum.
[28]107 Gothic. 1. Dress patterns from old MS. 2, 3. Old English tiles.
[29]109 Cloud Patterns. 1, 2, 3, 7. Japanese. 5, 8, 9. Mediæval. 4. Chinese. 6. Badge of Richard II.
[30]109 Indo-Chinese Coverlet. Hatfield. Supposed to have belonged to Oliver Cromwell.
[31]109 Fundata Patterns. 1. On Phœnician silver bowl. (“L’Imagerie Phénicienne.”) 2, 3. From tomb at Essiout, Egypt. Wilkinson’s “Ancient Egyptians,” ii. p. 125. 1600 B.C.
[32]124 Part of Border of silk, gold, and pearls. Worked by Blanche, wife of Charles IV. of Bohemia. Bock’s “Lit. Gew.” ii. p. 246.
[33]147 Embroidered Window hanging from portrait of Mahomet II., by Gentil Bellini; belonging to Sir Henry Layard.
[34]153[110]Classical Silks. 1. Greek. 2. Roman.
[35]163 Durham Relics. Persian type of silk weaving.
[36]164 Durham Relics. Norman and Persian types mixed.
[37]164 Durham Relics. Græco-Egyptian type.
[38]164 Egyptian Boat with embroidered and fringed sails, and floating scarves. Wilkinson’s “Ancient Egyptians,” iii. p. 211.
[39]200 White embroidery from sculptured tomb of a knight, fifteenth century. Ara Cœli, Rome.
[40]201 Processional Cloak, Spanish work, temp. Henry VIII., belonging to Lord Arundel of Wardour.
[41]204 Opus Pulvinarium. Counted stitches. 1. Italian. 2. Scandinavian. 3. Ancient Egyptian. Turin Museum.
[42]206 Italian Mosaic Stitch work, sixteenth century. Alford House.
[43]214 Japanese Opus Plumarium. White silk.
[44]216[25]Opus Consutum. Funeral tent of an Egyptian queen.
[45]219[123]Opus Consutum. “Inlaid” and “onlaid.” Italian, seventeenth century.
[46]235 Egyptian Gobelins finished with the needle.
[47]236 Rheims Cathedral Tapestry. The Virgin weaving and embroidering on frame a “basse-lisse.”
[48]243 Tent of Charles the Bold, taken at Grandson, now in museum at Berne. The badge is that of the Golden Fleece.
[49]252 English Tapestry belonging to Lord Salisbury, at Hatfield House, temp. Henry VIII.
[50]294 Italian Knight of fifteenth century armed for conquest. Gentile da Fabriano. Academia, Florence.
[51]309 St. Mark. Anglo-Saxon Book of the Gospels. York Minster Library.
[52]312 Classical Pattern adapted into Christian art.
[53]318 Charlemagne’s Dalmatic. Vatican Treasury.
[54]318 Charlemagne’s Dalmatic. Vatican Treasury.
[55]318 Portion of Charlemagne’s Dalmatic. Half-size.
[56]319 St. Silvester’s Pluvial. Treasury of St. John Lateran, Rome. Opus Anglicanum, thirteenth century.
[57]319 Portion of St. Silvester’s Pluvial, showing its condition.
[58]319 Bologna Cope. Museo del Municipio. Opus Anglicanum.
[59]319 Daroca Cope. Archæological Museum at Madrid. Opus Anglicanum.
[60]319 Boniface VIII.’s Cope from Anagni, his native place; now in Vatican Treasury; twelfth century.
[61]319 Altar Frontal at Anagni, Italy. Italian work, fourteenth century.
[62]320 Worcester Relics of the tenth century. 1. From tomb of Walter de Cantilupe. 2. From Aix, in Switzerland. Same type.
[63]320 1. Mitre of Thomas à Becket. 2. The cross with twelve leaves, “for the healing of the nations.” Coronation vestments at Rheims.
[64]321 Anglo-Saxon Work, purple and gold, from tomb of William de Blois, Worcester. He died Bishop in 1236.
[65]321 A Portion of St. Stephen of Hungary’s Mantle, worked by his Queen Gisela. From Bock’s “Kleinodien.”
[66]322 Portion of Mantle of Henry II., worked by his Empress Kunigunda. From Bock’s “Kleinodien.”
[67]325 The Syon Cope. South Kensington Museum.
[68]329 Italian Embroideries designed by Pollaiolo; worked by Paolo da Verona. Sixteenth century.
[69]330 Spanish Altar Frontal. The Arms of Castile embroidered in gold with pearls. Ashridge. Plâteresque style, seventeenth century.
[70]337[113]Consular Ivories. Two diptychs. 1. Zurich, Wasser-Kirche. Inscribed to Consul Areobindus, A.D. 434. 2. At Halberstadt. No date. From Bock’s “Lit. Gew.”
[71]363 Aelfled’s Orphrey, signed by her. Durham Cathedral Library.
[72]363 St. Gregory and St. John (Prophet), from Aelfled’s orphrey. Durham. English work, tenth century.
[73]365 St. Dunstan in adoration, drawn by himself. Bodleian Library, Oxford. Tenth century.
[74]369 Small Parsemé Patterns from Strutt’s “Royal and Ecclesiastical Antiquities of the English from 1100 to 1530.”
[75]369 English Patterns of embroidery. 1. Panel of a screen in Hornby Church, Yorkshire. 2. Dress on a painted window in St. Michael’s Church, York. 3. Woven material of the Towneley Copes.
[76]375 Opus Anglicanum, twelfth century. British Museum.
[77]376 Typical English Ornaments for ecclesiastical embroideries, twelfth century.
[78]377 Dunstable Pall. Temp. Henry VII.
[79]378 Vintners’ Company Pall. Henry VII.
[80]378 Henry VII.’s Cope, from Stoneyhurst; designed by Torrigiano, the sculptor of his tomb.
[81]382 Spanish Work. Temp. Henry VIII.
[82]383 English “Spanish Work.” Temp. Henry VIII.
[83]389 Cushion Cover, Hatfield House. Temp. Elizabeth.
[84]390 Oriental “Tree and Beast” Pattern. Cockayne-Hatley. Temp. James I.
[85]391 English Crewel Work. Indian design. Temp. James I.