Oriental Rugs, Antique and Modern

by W. A. Hawley

There are several distinct types, of which only one is well-known. Its pattern is clearly Turkoman, though the lesser designs show that there has been frequent intercourse with the weavers of Caucasia. Covering the field of these pieces are regularly placed diamond-shaped figures that suggest those of the Royal Bokharas, from which they may have been developed to the almost entire exclusion of the octagon; though the latter appears much less prominently in the centre of the diamonds. In the border occurs the running latch-hook, the barber-pole stripe, and a geometrically drawn vine. The webs of the ends, which are usually red and striped, are broad and have a fringe of goat’s hair, sometimes braided into ropelike tassels, but more often hanging loose.

The saddle bags are of irregular shape resembling a flat walled tent, and contain in both field and border much brighter colour than the rugs. Their field is checkered with diamond-shaped figures rich in ivory colour and separated from each other by diagonal barber-pole stripes; their border contains the running latch-hook.

Type Characteristics. Colours, principally dark red and mahogany brown, with minor quantities of blue, green, and white. Knot, generally Sehna, occasionally Ghiordes. Knots to inch horizontally five to eight; perpendicularly, seven to ten. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is largely concealed at back. Warp, coarse wool or goat’s hair; each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at the back, or one is slightly depressed below the other. Weft, wool, of medium diameter, or occasionally wool mixed with goat’s hair. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. Pile, wool, of medium length. Border, three stripes. Sides, either a two-cord selvage of red alternating with blue or brown, or a goat’s hair double selvage of three or four cords. Both ends, a broad, reddish brown web through which, as a rule, run coloured lines or several narrow stripes, and a long warp fringe. Texture, stout. Weave at back is moderately coarse. Usual length, five to twelve feet. Usual width, two thirds to three quarters length.

Beshires.—On the Amu Daria and not far from Afghanistan is a small district from which the rugs known as Beshires now and then find their way to this country. As it is not far from several routes of caravans, these rugs show a relationship to the products of other Turkoman tribes. Their colour scheme is principally the dark red and brownish tones found in Bokharas, Yomuds, and Khivas. The ends, too, have the web crossed by several lines, such as blue, green, and yellowish brown, that are usual in Afghans. The patterns sometimes contain a suggestion of the geometric figures of the Yomuds and some Caucasian pieces; and yet they have a striking character of their own. Not infrequently the field is covered with broad, irregular scrolls or foliate forms, unlike anything seen in any other class of rugs. Again the field may be occupied with a trellis pattern, which divides it into diamond-shaped figures. Within these are smaller diamonds surrounded by eight-pointed stars and quasi-floral forms. The borders, as a rule, are narrow and have simple designs that incline to the geometric; but a few are of fair width and are ornamented with rosettes and conventionalised leaves. In namazliks, which are rarely seen, the prayer arch lies within the field. Almost all of this class found in this country are old rugs; and on account of their rich, harmonious colours and unobtrusive yet distinctive patterns, are always pleasing and interesting.

Type Characteristics. Colours, principally dark red and brown, with minor quantities of blue, yellow, and white. Knot, Sehna. Knots to inch horizontally seven to twelve; perpendicularly, seven to twelve. A half knot, as it appears at back, is as long as, or longer than, wide. The rows of knots are pressed down, so that the warp is almost hidden at back. Warp, generally goat’s hair. Each of the two threads encircled by a knot is equally prominent at back, or occasionally one is slightly depressed. Weft, wool or goat’s hair of medium or coarse diameter. A thread of weft crosses twice between every two rows of knots. Pile, wool, of medium length. Border, generally three stripes, occasionally only one. Sides, a goat’s hair selvage of two to four cords. Both ends, a wide web, crossed with several coloured stripes. Texture, stout. Weave, coarse. Length, four to twelve feet. Usual width, two fifths to two thirds length.

Afghans.—One of the most distinctive classes of Turkoman rugs is known in this country both as Afghans and Khivas. Both of these names are unfortunately applied; for their only title to be called the latter is that many were formerly exported from the bazaars of Khiva, and that they slightly resemble the rugs of that city. Nor are they strictly Afghans, since they come from the territory of mountain ridges and fertile valleys that stretches from the Hindu Koosh Mountains northward across the eastern part of the Khanate Bokhara, and are made by the tribesmen of both countries. In fact, they differ considerably from the rugs of Central and Southern Afghanistan, and bear no resemblance to those of floral pattern woven about Herat.

Within the territory where these rugs are made the Aryan and Teutonic races have met and blended; and across it have passed the armies of the greatest conquerors of Asia. Here still exist some of the most untamed races of the East, feeding their flocks on lofty table-lands, or cultivating patches of valleys, through which flow icy streams to form the Amu Daria. Here the rights of hospitality are held sacred, but wrongs are revenged without recourse to any tribunal.

When the antecedents, customs, and surroundings of the people are taken into consideration, it is not strange that their rugs should be strong and firm in texture, bold in design, positive and striking in colour. Most of them are large and almost square in shape, though mats are not uncommon. The traditional pattern consists of perpendicular rows, usually three in number, of large octagons, that are almost in contact. Between these rows are much smaller diamond-shaped designs, which consist in some pieces of a cluster of eight-pointed stars, and in others of a geometric figure that is occasionally fringed with hooks and contains within its centre an eight-pointed star.

With a few exceptions the octagons, which closely resemble those of Royal Bokharas, are symmetrical, and all their details are drawn as regularly as if the rugs were factory woven. They are invariably divided into quarters which usually are marked with a small figure like a three-leaf clover. The field contains but few adventitious designs and they are rarely animal, as the Afghans are Sunni Mohammedans. One of the most common of these designs, which appears also in the Tekkes and Yomuds, is probably intended to represent part of the headstall of camel trappings. The pattern of the border conforms to that of the field, but frequently has crudely drawn floral forms and a conventionalised vine. The sides have an added selvage of brown goat’s hair; and the ends are finished with reddish brown webs, from which hang loose fringes of dark wool or goat’s hair.