ANNEX TO CHAPTER V.
The Routes to the Temples.
Supposing that the traveller has been landed at Batavia, and wishes to visit the ruins in the east of the island, he will have the choice of three routes. First, he may sail by a Netherlands India boat to Samarang (or Soerabaia, if, as often happens from December to February, it is impossible to land at the former place owing to the surf); this occupies about thirty-six hours. There is an excellent hotel at Samarang—the Pavilion—where the night can be spent, and the following day the train will carry him to Amberawa, a distance of 50 miles by rail (or 30 by road). Here the railway stops, and a carriage must be taken to Magalang, the next town (with splendid views of the two volcanoes, Merbaboe and Merapi), which is some 20 miles further on, and where a halt must be made for the night. Ten miles' driving will take him to the Boro-Boedoer; the drive is one of extraordinary beauty. After visiting the Boro-Boedoer and the neighbouring temple of Mendoet, it is usual to return by way of Djokja (25 miles), which is the centre of numerous ruins. If, however, it is intended to travel overland, there are two routes available. The first is the regular posting route along the northern coast; the second lies to the south, and is perhaps more interesting. If the regular route is chosen, the traveller will proceed by rail as far as Bandong, a distance of some 90 miles; and then drive to Cheribon (80 miles), a place on the northern coast; and then, following the coast-line, from Cheribon to Tegal (40 miles); from Tegal to Pekalongan (35 miles); and from Pekalongan to Samarang (68 miles). In all these places there are good hotels, but two horses, and in some places four (as in the last stage, where the road passes over mountains), would be necessary. Such a journey in a carriage would cost (apart from hotel expenses) £20, or, if it were done in a cart (sadoe) and two horses, half that sum.
If he pursues the second route, he will not leave the railway before Garoet. From Garoet he will proceed to Kalipoetjan (100 miles) by carriage; this occupies two days, and Manongyaya (with a hotel) is passed, and Bandar, where there is sleeping-accommodation to be had. From Kalipoetjan he will make his way to Tjilatjap by native canoe, crossing the Kinderzee, a large lagoon, in eight or nine hours, and passing some villages built on piles. There is also a curious cave and some edible swallow-nests to be seen. In travelling by this route it is necessary to take a servant to interpret with the natives. From Tjilatjap the railway runs to Djokja. This town is about 25 miles from the Boro-Boedoer temple; the road is bad, and at times covered with dust to the depth of a foot or more, so that three horses are necessary. Even then the journey occupies four or five hours, although it is quite possible to return on the same day. There is an inn at the small village near the temple, but it is not sufficiently inviting to merit more than a transitory visit; at the same time, there is nothing to prevent the gentlemen of the party from staying the night at Boro-Boedoer if they felt so inclined. From Djokja, of course, the railway extends to Samarang and to Soerabaia. Especially the town of Solo (or Soerakarta), which is the junction where the line branches north or east, is worthy of a visit, as being the best centre for seeing native ceremonies. In conclusion I append a table of distances, means of conveyance, and cost (this latter being approximate only as depending upon individuals).
Note.—The regular hotel charge all through Java is five or six florins a day (= 10s.). Twelve florins = £1.
| First Route. | |||||||||
| Places. | Means of Conveyance. | Cost. | Number of Miles. | Time. | |||||
| Batavia to Samarang | Steamboat | 60 | florins | 240 | 36 hours. | ||||
| Samarang to Amberawa | Train | 8 | " | 50 | |||||
| Amberawa to Magalang | – | Cart | 10 | " | – | 20 | |||
| Carriage | 20 | " | |||||||
| Magalang to Boro-Boedoer | – | Cart | 5 | " | – | 10 | |||
| Carriage | 10 | " | |||||||
| Second Route. | |||||||||
| Batavia to Bandong | Train | — | " | 90 | |||||
| Bandong to Cheribon | – | Cart | 30 | " | – | 80 | 10 " | ||
| Carriage | 60 | " | |||||||
| Cheribon to Tegal | – | Cart | 15 | " | – | 40 | 4 " | ||
| Carriage | 50 | " | |||||||
| Tegal to Pekalongan | – | Cart | 15 | " | – | 35 | 4 " | ||
| Carriage | 60 | " | |||||||
| Pekalongan to Samarang | – | Cart | 30 | " | – | 50 | 11 " | ||
| Carriage | 70 | " | |||||||
| Third Route. | |||||||||
| Batavia to Garoet | Train | — | " | 100 | |||||
| Garoet to Kalipoetjan | Carriage | 29 | " | 100 | 2 days. | ||||
| Kalipoetjan to Tjilatjap | Native canoe | 15 | " | — | 8 or 9 hrs. | ||||
| Tjilatjap to Djokja | Train | — | " | 90 | |||||
CHAPTER VI.
BUITENZORG.
Batavian heat—To Buitenzorg by rail—Buitenzorg— Kotta Batoe—Buffalo—Sawah land—Sketching a Javan cottage.