[A] See Appendix.
CONTENTS.
| PAGE | |
| [CHAPTER I.] | |
| Introduction—Charing Cross—Dover—Submarine ChannelTunnel—Calais—Advantages of travelling second class—Superfluousexamination of luggage—Paris—Dining à lacarte versus table d'hôte—Noël—An Officer's Funeral—Lyons—Sceneryof the Rhone—Constant changes in the landscape—Wantof proper accommodation at the railway stations—Defectivelighting of railway carriages | 1 |
| [CHAPTER II.] | |
| Arrival at Marseilles—Change in climate—The mistral—Someaccount of Marseilles in the past—Marseillaise hymn—Docksand harbour—Hill-side scenery—Chateau d'If—La Dame dela Garde—Military practice—St. Nazaire—An ancient church—TheExchange—Courtiers of merchandise—Sunday at homeand abroad | 13 |
| [CHAPTER III.] | |
| Leaving Marseilles—Toulon—Hyères—Fréjus—Coast scenery—TheHotel Windsor—An unexpected meeting, and a pleasantwalk—Isles de Lerins—The Mediterranean—Defective drainage—Mosquitosand Nocturnal Pianos—Christmas Day—Cannes—ThePepper tree—The English Cemetery—Antibes—MiscalledHealth Resorts—Grasse—Orange blossoms—LeavingCannes | 23 |
| [CHAPTER IV.] | |
| Nice—Its persistently Italian character—Its gaming propensities—Hintsabout luggage—Old and New Towns—Flower-shops—Ariver laundry—The harbours of Nice and Villafranca—Sceneryand climate of Nice—A cowardly outrage—In theCathedral—Hotel charges—Leaving Nice | 37 |
| [CHAPTER V.] | |
| The beauty-spot and plague-spot of the Riviera—Arrival atMentone—Hotel des Isles Britanniques—English church—HerMajesty's Villa—Gardens of Dr. Bennett—Custom-house—Remarkson Mentone—A charming walk—A word aboutBrigands—An adventure—In the cemetery—A labour of love—Afrog concert—Excursion to Monte Carlo—Sublimecoast scenery—Castle of Monaco—The sombre Olive—Theexodus of the Caterpillars | 49 |
| [CHAPTER VI.] | |
| Monte Carlo—In the Concert-room—The Gambling saloons—TheTables—The moth and the candle—The true story ofMonte Carlo—An International grievance and disgrace | 62 |
| [CHAPTER VII.] | |
| Scenery en route—Bordighera—Pegli—Genoa—Its magnificentsituation—The grandeur of its past—The Harbour—Streets—Palaces—Cathedralof San Lorenzo—Sacred Catina—Chapelof St. John the Baptist—Italian Beggars—Sudden change inthe atmosphere—The Campo Santo—Shops of Genoa—Marblepromenade—City of precipices—Climate of Genoa | 72 |
| [CHAPTER VIII.] | |
| Pisa—Hotel Victoria—Pisan weather—The poet Shelley—HistoricPisa—Lung 'Arno—San Stefano di Canalia—Cathedral—Baptistery—LeaningTower—Campo Santo—The divineangels—The great chain of Pisa—Leghorn—Smollett's grave—Poste-restante—Asweet thing in Beggars—Ugolino's Tower—Departurefor Rome | 83 |
| [CHAPTER IX.] | |
| Arrival in Rome—Hotel de la Ville—The Corso—The Strangers'Quarter—Roman Guides—View from the Capitol—"Howare the mighty fallen!"—The sculpture-gallery of the Capitol—TheDying Gladiator—The Venus—Hawthorne's MarbleFaun—Bambino Santissimo—The Mamertine Prison—TheForum—Palaces—The Coliseum—Longfellow's "MichaelAngelo" | 92 |
| [CHAPTER X.] | |
| Trajan's Gate—The Appian Way—The English Cemetery—Catacombsof St. Calixtus—Reflections on the Italian seat ofgovernment—Churches—S. Paolo Fuori le Mura—SantaMaria Maggiore—S. Pietro in Vincoli—"Was St. Peterever in Rome?"—Fountains of Rome—Dell' Aqua Felice—Paulina—Trevi—Rome'sfamous Aqueducts—Beggars—Priests | 106 |
| [CHAPTER XI.] | |
| Papal Rome—Narrow streets—St. Angelo—Benvenuto Cellini—St.Peter's—Pietà Chapel—The Dead Christ—Tomb of theStuarts—Anniversary of St. Peter's—Grand ceremonial—CardinalHoward—The Vatican—Pictures—Pauline andSistine Chapels—"The Last Judgment"—Pinacoteca—Raphael's"Transfiguration"—"The Madonna"—ChristianMartyrs—Sculptures—Tapestries—Leo XIII.—Italian Priesthood—St.John Lateran—Marvellous legends and relics—Nativeirreverence to sacred edifices | 119 |
| [CHAPTER XII.] | |
| Excursion to Tivoli—Sulphur baths—Memories—Temple of theSybil—River Anio—Lovely scenery—Back to Rome—Post-office—Carelessofficials—The everlasting "Weed"—Climateof Rome—Discomforts and disappointments—Young Italy—LeoXIII.—Italian Politics—Cessation of Brigandage—Thenew City—American church—Italian Times—Departurefor Naples—Regrets—The Three Taverns—A picturesqueroute—Naples by night | 137 |
| [CHAPTER XIII.] | |
| Naples—Bristol Hotel—Via Roma—King Bomba's time—Deteriorationof the Neapolitans—Museum—Churches—TheOpera-house—English and Italian beauty—Aquarium—Vesuvius—Excursionto Pompeii—Portici—A novel mode ofgrooming—The entombed city—Its disinterment—Museum,streets, and buildings—Remarks—A cold drive | 151 |
| [CHAPTER XIV.] | |
| Unprecedented cold of 1883—Departure from Naples—Virgil'stomb—Journey to Messina—Italy's future—Scylla andCharybdis—Beautiful Messina—The "Electrico"—Malta—KnightCrusaders—Maltese Society—An uncommon fish—Anearthquake at sea—Journey to Palermo—Picturesquescenery—Etna—Among the mountains—The lights ofPalermo | 168 |
| [CHAPTER XV.] | |
| Palermo—Oriental aspects—Historical facts—Royal Palace—CountRoger—The Piazzi Planet—The Palatine Chapel—Walkto Monreale—Beauty of the Peasantry—Prickly pears—"TheGolden Shell"—Monreale Cathedral—Abbey andCloisters—English church—Palermo Cathedral—Churches—Catacombsof the Capuchins—Gardens—Palermo aristocracy—TheBersaglieri—Sicilian life and characteristics—Climateand general features | 191 |
| [CHAPTER XVI.] | |
| Annexation of Nice and Savoy—Garibaldi's protest—A desperateventure—Calatafimi—Catania—Melazzo—Entry into Naples—Gaeta—TheBritish Contingent—Departure from England—Desertion—Arrivalin Naples—Colonel "Long Shot"—MajorH——'s imaginary regiment—Dispersion of the BritishContingent | 204 |
| [CHAPTER XVII.] | |
| Floods in France—London—Back to the South—Marseilles—ItalianEmigrant passengers—A death on board—Frenchimpolitesse—Italian coast scenery at dawn—Unlimitedpalaver—Arrival in Leghorn—The "Lepanto"—Departure—"FairFlorence"—The Arno—Streets—Palaces—San Miniato—Thegrand Duomo—The Baptistery—Ghiberti's BronzeGates | 217 |
| [CHAPTER XVIII.] | |
| Santa Croce—San Lorenzo—Day and Night—Picture-galleries—TheTribune—Venus di Medicis—Excursion to Fiesole—AncientAmphitheatre—Aurora Café—Climate of Florence—Heavyhotel charges—Departure—Bologna sausages—Venice | 228 |
| [CHAPTER XIX.] | |
| Arrival in Venice—The Water City—Gondola traffic—Past glories—Danieli'sRoyal Hotel—St. Mark's Piazza—The SacredPigeons—St. Mark's—Mosaics—The Holy Columns—Treasures—TheChian Steeds—The modern Goth | 241 |
| [CHAPTER XX.] | |
| A water-excursion—The Bridge of Sighs—Doge's Palace—ArchæologicalMuseum—The Rialto—The streets of Venice—Aidsto disease—Venetian Immorality—The Arsenal—NauticalMuseum—Trip to Lido—Glass works—Venetianevenings—The great Piazza—Scene on the Piazzetta—Farewellto Venice | 253 |
| [CHAPTER XXI.] | |
| Leaving Venice—Hervey's Lament—Scenery en route—Padua—Associationsof the past—A brief history of Padua, andthe House of Carrara—General appearance of the town—Giotto'sChapel—His beautiful frescoes—Character of Giotto'swork—The Cathedral—Palazzo della Ragione—The WoodenHorse—St. Antonio—The Hermitage—The Fallen Angels—TheUniversity and its students—Ladies of Padua—Situationof the city—An old bridge—Climate | 264 |
| [CHAPTER XXII.] | |
| Journey from Padua—The great Quadrilateral—Historic Verona—Hoteldue Torri—Recent inundations—Poetic Verona—Houseof the Capulets—Juliet's tomb—Streets and monuments—Cathedral—RomanAmphitheatre—Shops—Veroneseladies—Departure—Romantic journey—Lake Garda—Desenzano—Brescia | 274 |
| [CHAPTER XXIII.] | |
| Arrival in Milan—Railway station—Tram carriages—Historyand present condition—The Cathedral—Irreverence of ItalianPriests—The Ambrosian Liturgy—Sunday school—S. CarloBorromeo—Relics—A frozen flower-garden—View from thetower | 287 |
| [CHAPTER XXIV.] | |
| Milan—Social and charitable—How to relieve our Poor—Leonardo's"Last Supper"—Condition of churches in Italy—SantaMaria delle Grazie—La Scala—Picture-galleries—St.Ambrogio—Ambrosian library—Public gardens—Excursionto the Lakes—Monza—Como—Lake scenery—Bellagio—Americanrowdyism | 300 |
| [CHAPTER XXV.] | |
| Climate of Milan—Magenta—Arrival in Turin—PalazzoMadama—Chapel of the Holy Napkin—The lottery fever—Viewfrom the Alpine Club—Superga—Academia dellaScience—Departure—Mont Cenis railway—The greatTunnel—Modane—Farewell to Italy | 315 |
| [CHAPTER XXVI.] | |
| From Modane to Paris—Lovely scenery—St. Michel—St. Jeande Maurienne—Epierre—Paris—Notre Dame—French immorality—LaManche—"Dear old foggy London"—Reflectionsand conclusion | 330 |