The scientific details of our trip will probably be published in proper form and time, by the savans interested. In regard to these, my object has been simply to chronicle such matters as made an impression upon my own mind, being content with what cream might be gathered by an amateur's skimming, while the more bulky milk should be saved in capacious scientific buckets.

Professor Cope, the well known naturalist, of the Academy of Sciences, Philadelphia, received for examination and classification the most valuable fossils we obtained, and to him I am indebted for a large amount of most interesting and valuable scientific matter, which will be found embodied in chapters twenty-third and twenty-fourth.

The illustrations of men and brutes in this work are studies from life. Whenever it was possible, we had photographs taken.

The plains, it must be said, are a tract with which Romance has had much more to do than History. Red men, brave and chivalrous, and unnatural buffalo, with the habits of lions, exist only in imagination. In these pages, my earnest endeavor, when dealing with actualities, has been to "hold the mirror up to Nature," and to describe men, manners, and things as they are in real life upon the frontiers, and beyond, to-day.

W. E. W.

Topeka, Kansas, May, 1872.


CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
PAGES.
THE OBJECT OF OUR EXPEDITION—A GLIMPSE OF ALASKA THROUGH CAPTAIN
WALRUS' GLASS—WE ARE TEMPTED BY OUR RECENT PURCHASE—ALASKAN
GAME OF "OLD SLEDGE"—THE EARLY STRUGGLES OF KANSAS—THE
SMOKY HILL TRAIL—INDIAN HIGH ART—THE "BORDER-RUFFIAN,"
PAST AND PRESENT—TOPEKA—HOW IT RECEIVED ITS
NAME—WAUKARUSA AND ITS LEGEND,[25]-35
CHAPTER II.
A CHAPTER OF INTRODUCTIONS—PROFESSOR PALEOZOIC—TAMMANY SACHEM—DOCTOR
PYTHAGORAS—GENUINE MUGGS—COLON AND SEMI-COLON—SHAMUS
DOBEEN—TENACIOUS GRIPE—BUGS AND PHILOSOPHY—HOW
GRIPE BECAME A REPUBLICAN,[36]-54
CHAPTER III.
THE TOPEKA AUCTIONEER—MUGGS GETS A BARGAIN—CYNOCEPHALUS—INDIAN
SUMMER IN KANSAS—HUNTING PRAIRIE CHICKENS—OUR FIRST
DAY'S SPORT,[55]-63
CHAPTER IV.
CHICKEN-SHOOTING CONTINUED—A SCIENTIFIC PARTY TAKE THE BIRDS ON
THE WING—EVILS OF FAST FIRING—AN OLD-FASHIONED "SLOW SHOT"—THE
HABITS OF THE PRAIRIE CHICKEN—ITS PROSPECTIVE EXTINCTION—MODE
OF HUNTING IT—THE GOPHER SCALP LAW,[64]-74
CHAPTER V.
A TRIAL BY JUDGE LYNCH—HUNG FOR CONTEMPT OF COURT—QUAIL
SHOOTING—HABITS OF THE BIRDS, AND MODE OF KILLING THEM—A
RING OF QUAILS—THE EFFECTS OF A SEVERE WINTER—THE SNOW
GOOSE,[75]-83
CHAPTER VI.
OFF FOR BUFFALO LAND—THE NAVIGATION OF THE KAW—FORT RILEY—THE
CENTER-POST OF THE UNITED STATES—OUR PURCHASE OF HORSES—"LO"
AS A SAVAGE AND AS A CITIZEN—GRIPE UNFOLDS THE INDIAN
QUESTION—A BALLAD BY SACHEM, PRESENTING ANOTHER VIEW,[84]-98
CHAPTER VII.
GRIPE'S VIEWS OF INDIAN CHARACTER—THE DELAWARES, THE ISHMAELITES
OF THE PLAINS—THE TERRITORY OF THE "LONG HORNS"—TEXANS
AND THEIR CHARACTERISTICS—MUSHROOM ROCK—A VALUABLE DISCOVERY—FOOTPRINTS
IN THE ROCK—THE PRIMEVAL PAUL AND
VIRGINIA,[99]-111
CHAPTER VIII.
THE "GREAT AMERICAN DESERT"—ITS FOSSIL WEALTH—AN ILLUSION DISPELLED—FIRES
ACCORDING TO NOVELS AND ACCORDING TO FACT—SENSATIONAL
HEROES AND HEROINES—PRAIRIE DOGS AND THEIR HABITS—HAWK
AND DOG, AND HAWK AND CAT,[112]-123
CHAPTER IX.
WE SEE BUFFALO—ARRIVAL AT HAYS—GENERAL SHERIDAN AT THE FORT—INDIAN
MURDERS—BLOOD-CHRISTENING OF THE PACIFIC RAILROAD—SURPRISED
BY A BUFFALO HERD—A BUFFALO BULL IN A QUANDARY—GENTLE
ZEPHYRS—HOW A CIRCUS WENT OFF—BOLOGNA TO LEAN ON—A
CALL UPON SHERIDAN,[124]-141
CHAPTER X.
HAYS CITY BY LAMP-LIGHT—THE SANTA FE TRADE—BULL-WHACKERS—MEXICANS—SABBATH
ON THE PLAINS—THE DARK AGES—WILD BILL
AND BUFFALO BILL—OFF FOR THE SALINE—DOBEEN'S GHOST-STORY—AN
ADVENTURE WITH INDIANS—MEXICAN CANNONADE—A RUNAWAY,[142]-160
CHAPTER XI.
WHITE WOLF, THE CHEYENNE CHIEF—HUNGRY INDIANS—RETURN TO HAYS—A
CHEYENNE WAR PARTY—THE PIPE OF PEACE—THE COUNCIL
CHAMBER—WHITE WOLF'S SPEECH, AS RENDERED BY SACHEM—THE
WHITE MAN'S WIGWAM,[161]-176
CHAPTER XII.
ARMS OF A WAR PARTY—A DONKEY PRESENT—EATING POWERS OF THE
NOMADS—SATANTA, HIS CRIMES AND PUNISHMENT—RUNNING OFF
WITH A GOVERNMENT HERD—DAUB, OUR ARTIST—ANTELOPE CHASE
BY A GREYHOUND,[177]-191
CHAPTER XIII.
CHARACTER OF THE PLAINS—BUFFALO BILL AND HIS HORSE BRIGHAM—THE
GUIDE AND SCOUT OF ROMANCE—CAYOTE VERSUS JACKASS-RABBIT—A
LAWYER-LIKE RESCUE—OUR CAMP ON SILVER CREEK—UNCLE
SAM'S BUFFALO HERDS—TURKEY-SHOOTING—OUR FIRST MEAL ON THE
PLAINS—A GAME SUPPER,[192]-208
CHAPTER XIV.
A CAMP-FIRE SCENE—VAGABONDIZING—THE BLACK PACER OF THE PLAINS—SOME
ADVICE FROM BUFFALO BILL ABOUT INDIAN FIGHTING—LO'S
ABHORRENCE OF LONG RANGE—HIS DREAD OF CANNON—AN IRISH
GOBLIN,[209]-219
CHAPTER XV.
A FIRE SCENE—A GLIMPSE OF THE SOUTH—'COON HUNTING IN MISSISSIPPI—VOICES
IN THE SOLITUDE—FRIENDS OR FOES—A STARTLING
SERENADE—PANIC IN CAMP—CAYOTES AND THEIR HABITS—WORRYING
A BUFFALO BULL—THE SECOND DAY—DAUB, OUR ARTIST—HE
MAKES HIS MARK,[220]-235
CHAPTER XVI.
BISON MEAT—A STRANGE ARRIVAL—THE SYDNEY FAMILY—THE HOME
IN THE VALLEY—THE SOLOMON MASSACRE—THE MURDER OF THE
FATHER AND THE CHILD—THE SETTLERS' FLIGHT—INCIDENTS—OUR
QUEEN OF THE PLAINS—THE PROFESSOR INTERESTED—IRISH MARY—DOBEEN
HAPPY—THE HEROINE OF ROMANCE—SACHEM'S BATH BY
MOONLIGHT—THE BEAVER COLONY,[236]-249
CHAPTER XVII.
PREPARATIONS FOR THE CHASE—THE VALLEY OF THE SALINE—QUEER
'COONS—A BISON'S GAME OF BLUFF—IN PURSUIT—ALONGSIDE THE
GAME—FIRING FROM THE SADDLE—A CHARGE AND A PANIC—FALSE
HISTORY AGAIN—GOING FOR AMMUNITION—THE PROFESSOR'S LETTER—DISROBING
THE VICTIM,[250]-263
CHAPTER XVIII.
STILL HUNTING—DARK OBJECTS AGAINST THE HORIZON—THE RED MAN
AGAIN—RETREAT TO CAMP—PREPARATIONS FOR DEFENSE—SHAKING
HANDS WITH DEATH—MR. COLON'S BUGS—THE EMBASSADORS—A NEW
ALARM—MORE INDIANS—TERRIFIC BATTLE BETWEEN PAWNEES AND
CHEYENNES—THEIR MODE OF FIGHTING—GOOD HORSEMANSHIP—A
SCIENTIFIC PARTY AS SEXTONS—DITTO AS SURGEONS—CAMPS OF THE
COMBATANTS—STEALING AWAY—AN APPARITION,[264]-279
CHAPTER XIX.
STALKING THE BISON—BUFFALO AS OXEN—EXPENSIVE POWER—A BUFFALO
AT A LUNATIC ASYLUM—THE GATEWAY TO THE HERDS—INFERNAL
GRAPE-SHOT—NATURE'S BOMB-SHELLS—CRAWLING BEDOUINS—"THAR
THEY HUMP"—THE SLAUGHTER BEGUN—AN INEFFECTUAL
CHARGE—"KETCHING THE CRITTER"—RETURN TO CAMP—CALVES'
HEAD ON THE STOMACH—AN UNPLEASANT EPISODE—WOLF BAITING,
AND HOW IT IS DONE,[280]-291
CHAPTER XX.
THE CAYOTES' STRYCHNINE FEAST—CAPTURING A TIMBER WOLF—A FEW
CORDS OF VICTIMS—WHAT THE LAW CONSIDERS "INDIAN TAN"—"FINISHING"
THE NEW YORK MARKET—A NEW YORK FARMER'S
OPINION OF OUR GRAY WOLF—WESTWARD AGAIN—EPISODES IN OUR
JOURNEY—THE WILD HUNTRESS OF THE PLAINS—WAS OUR GUIDE A
MURDERER?—THE READER JOINS US IN A BUFFALO CHASE—THE
DYING AGONIES,[292]-305
CHAPTER XXI.
"CREASING" WILD HORSES—MUGGS DISAPPOINTED—A FEAT FOR FICTION—HORSE
AND MONKEY—HOOF WISDOM FOR TURFMEN—PROSPECTIVE
CLIMATIC CHANGES ON THE PLAINS—THE QUESTION OF
SPONTANEOUS GENERATION—WANTON SLAUGHTER OF BUFFALO—AMOUNT
OF ROBES AND MEAT ANNUALLY WASTED—A STRANGE
HABIT OF THE BISON—NUMEROUS BILLS—THE "SNEAK THIEF" OF
THE PLAINS,[306]-317
CHAPTER XXII.
A LIVE TOWN AND ITS GRAVE-YARD—HONEST ROMBEAUX IN TROUBLE—JUDGE
LYNCH HOLDS COURT—MARIE AND THE VINE-COVERED COTTAGE—THE
TERRIBLE FLOODS—DEATH IN CAMP AND IN THE DUGOUT—WAS
IT THE WATER WHICH DID IT?—DISCOVERY OF A HUGE
FOSSIL—THE MOSASAURUS OF THE CRETACEOUS SEA—A GLIMPSE
OF THE REPTILIAN AGE—REMINISCENCES OF ALLIGATOR-SHOOTING—THEY
SUGGEST A THEORY,[318]-329
CHAPTER XXIII.
FROM SHERIDAN TO THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS—THE COLORADO PORTION OF
THE PLAINS—THE GIANT PINES—ATTEMPT TO PHOTOGRAPH A BUFFALO—THINGS
GET MIXED—THE LEVIATHAN AT HOME—A CHAT
WITH PROFESSOR COPE—TWENTY-SIX-INCH OYSTERS—REPTILES AND
FISHES OF THE CRETACEOUS SEA,[330]-350
CHAPTER XXIV.
CONTINUED BY COPE—THE GIANTS OF THE SEAS—TAKING OUT FOSSILS
IN A GALE—INTERESTING DISCOVERIES—THE GEOLOGY OF THE
PLAINS,[351]-365
CHAPTER XXV.
A SAVAGE OUTBREAK—THE BATTLE OF THE FORTY SCOUTS—THE SURPRISE—PACK-MULES
STAMPEDED—DEATH ON THE ARICKEREE—THE
MEDICINE MAN—A DISMAL NIGHT—MESSENGERS SENT TO WALLACE—MORNING
ATTACK—WHOSE FUNERAL?—RELIEF AT LAST—THE OLD
SCOUT'S DEVOTION TO THE BLUE,[366]-376
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE STAGE DRIVERS OF THE PLAINS—"OLD BOB"—JAMAICA AND GINGER—AN
OLD ACQUAINTANCE—BEADS OF THE PAST—ROBBING THE
DEAD—A LEAP FROM THE LOST HISTORY OF THE MOUND BUILDERS—INDIAN
TRADITIONS—SPECULATIONS—ADOBE HOUSES IN A RAIN—CHEAP
LIVING—WATCH TOWERS,[377]-386
CHAPTER XXVII.
OUR PROGRAMME CONCLUDED—FROM SHERIDAN TO THE SOLOMON—FIERCE
WINDS—A TERRIFIC STORM—SHAMUS' BLOODY APPARITION AND
INDIAN WITCH—A RECONNOISSANCE—AN INDIAN BURIAL GROVE—A
CONTRACTOR'S DARING AND ITS PENALTY—MORE VAGABONDIZING—JOSE
AT THE LONG BOW—THE "WILD HUNTRESS'" COUNTERPART—SHAMUS
TREATS US TO "CHILE"—THE RESULT,[387]-395
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE BLOCK-HOUSE ON THE SOLOMON—HOW THE OLD MAN DIED—WACONDA
DA—LEGEND OF WA-BOG-AHA AND HEWGAW—SABBATH MORNING—SACHEM'S
POETICAL EPITAPH—AN ALARM—BATTLE BETWEEN AN
EMIGRANT AND THE INDIANS—WAS IT THE SYDNEYS?—TO THE
RESCUE—AN ELK HUNT—ROCKY MOUNTAIN SHEEP—NOVEL MODE
OF HUNTING TURKEYS—IN CAMP ON THE SOLOMON—A WARM WELCOME,[396]-415
CHAPTER XXIX.
OUR LAST NIGHT TOGETHER—THE REMARKABLE SHED-TAIL DOG—HE
RESCUES HIS MISTRESS, AND BREAKS UP A MEETING—A SKETCH OF
TERRITORIAL TIMES BY GRIPE—MONTGOMERY'S EXPEDITION FOR THE
RESCUE OF JOHN BROWN'S COMPANIONS—SCALPED, AND CARVING HIS
OWN EPITAPH—AN IRISH JACOB—"SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST"—SACHEM'S
POETICAL LETTER—POPPING THE QUESTION ON THE RUN—THE
PROFESSOR'S LETTER,[416]-428