For many of the photographs taken on the journey he is indebted to his companions in travel, Rev. J. Calder Macphail, D.D., Edinburgh, and Dr. Mackinnon of Damascus; for others, to Dr. Paterson of Hebron and to the Committee of the Palestine Exploration Fund. He also gratefully acknowledges assistance received from the Rev. J. E. H. Thomson, D.D., and Oliphant Smeaton, Esq., M.A., F.S.A., Edinburgh.
Edinburgh, December 1906.
DAMASCUS FROM MINARET OF GREAT MOSQUE
CONTENTS
| CHAPTER I | |
|---|---|
| PAGE | |
| Damascus—Haurân Railway—Great Moslem pilgrimage—The plainsof Damascus—Great Hermon—El-Kisweh—Bridges in Palestine—Ghabâghib—Es-Sanamein—Medicalmyth—A Land of Fear—Grain-fieldsof Haurân—An oppressed peasantry—Nowa | [ 1] |
| CHAPTER II | |
| Arab courtesy—Sheikh Saʿad—Egyptian monuments—Traditions ofJob—El-Merkez—Religious conservatism—Holy places—SheikhMeskîn—A ride in the dark—Zorʿa—El-Lejâʾ | [ 16] |
| CHAPTER III | |
| A landscape of lava—Deserted cities—Caverns—Cultivation—A landof ruins—The guide’s terror—Damet el-ʿAliâ—The sheikh’swelcome—A state of siege—An ugly incident—Druze hospitality—Araband Druze in el-Lejâʾ—St. Paul in Arabia—The well ofthe priest—Story of the priest | [ 30] |
| CHAPTER IV | |
| Hidden treasure—The Bedawy’s treasure-trove—The sheikh’sfarewell—A savage tract—Jebel ed-Druze—Umm ez-Zeytûn—TellShihân—Shuhba—An ancient house—A stingy entertainer—Theruins—Pharaoh’s “grain-heaps”—The house of Shehâb | [ 48] |
| CHAPTER V | |
| Ride to Kanawât (Kenath)—Impressive situation and remains—Place-namesin Palestine—Israelites and Arabs—Education—Acharming ride through mountain glades—Suweida | [ 63] |
| CHAPTER VI | |
| Healing the sick—A strange monument—Telegraph and post inHaurân—Cruel kindness—The Ruins of Suweida—Turkishmethods of rule—ʿIry—Sheyûkh ed-Druze—Jephthah’s burial—Enterpriseof Ismaʿîl el-ʿAtrash | [ 74] |
| CHAPTER VII | |
| The Druzes—Their religion—Their character—Druze and Jew—Recenthistory in Haurân—Druze and Bedawy—War | [ 86] |
| CHAPTER VIII | |
| Bozrah—First Syrian mosque—The physician the reconciler—The“House of the Jew”—The great mosque—Cufic inscription—Boheiraand Mohammed—The fortress—Bridal festivities—Featsof horsemanship—History—Origen’s visit—Capture by Moslems | [ 102] |
| CHAPTER IX | |
| Travellers’ troubles—A corner of the desert—The mirage—Dangerouswadies—Lunch in the desert—A “blind” guide—Theclerk to the sheyûkh—A milestone—Kalʿat Esdein—Thirst—Theuplands of Gilead—Search for water—A Bedawy camp—Terrificthunderstorm | [ 117] |
| CHAPTER X | |
| Morning on the mountains—Arab time—Tents and encampments—Thewomen and their work—Arab wealth—Scenes at the wells—Dogs—Arabianhospitality—Desert pests—Strange code ofhonour—The blood feud—Judgment of the elders—Arab andhorse—The Arabs and religion—The Oriental mind—Arab visitto Damascus | [ 129] |
| CHAPTER XI | |
| Ride to Jerash—Magnificent ruins—Circassian colonists—History—Preservationof buildings—East of Jordan—Sûf—A moonlightscene—Down to the Jabbok | [ 145] |
| CHAPTER XII | |
| “Time is money”—Rumamain—Priestly hospitality—Fair mountaingroves—Es-Salt—The springs—Relation to Arabs—Raisins—Descentto the Jordan—Distant view of Jerusalem—View of theriver, the plains of Jordan, the Dead Sea, and the mountainsbeyond—The bridge—The “publican’s” shed—The men fromKerâk | [ 158] |
| CHAPTER XIII | |
| The banks and thickets of the Jordan—Bathing-place—The Greekconvent—A night of adventures in the plains of Jericho—Themodern village—Ancient fertility—Possible restoration—Elisha’sfountain—Wady Kelt—The Mountain of Temptation—Thepath to Zion | [ 169] |
ILLUSTRATIONS
| PAGE | ||
| Arab Sheikh | [Frontispiece] | |
| Tiberias from the Sea | Facing | [ iii] |
| Damascus from Minaret | ” | [ vii] |
| Pilgrimage leaving Damascus | ” | [ 2] |
| The Cook’s Tent | ” | [ 8] |
| Treading out the Corn | ” | [ 14] |
| “Wild Ishmaelitish Men” | ” | [ 25] |
| Peasant Ploughman | ” | [ 33] |
| Well in the Desert | ” | [ 47] |
| Shuhba: Baths and Roman Pavement | ” | [ 54] |
| Kanawât: Ruins of Temple | ” | [ 66] |
| Kanawât: Sculptured Doorway in Temple | ” | [ 70] |
| Sheyûkh ed-Druze: a Council of War | ” | [ 83] |
| Bozrah: Bab el-Howa | ” | [ 102] |
| Bozrah: at the Cross Ways | ” | [ 114] |
| Palestinian Shepherd and Flock | ” | [ 122] |
| Arab Camp in Gilead | ” | [ 126] |
| Arab Women and Children | ” | [ 133] |
| Arabs at Home | ” | [ 136] |
| Arab Horseman | ” | [ 140] |
| Jerash: Gateway | ” | [ 145] |
| Jerash: Temple of the Sun | ” | [ 148] |
| Jerash: Street of Columns | ” | [ 152] |
| Jerash: General View | ” | [ 154] |
| Gorge of the Jabbok | ” | [ 156] |
| Rumamain | ” | [ 159] |
| Es-Salt: the Fountain | ” | [ 162] |
| Jordan, showing Terraces | ” | [ 164] |
| Fords of Jordan: Pilgrims Bathing | ” | [ 170] |
| Elisha’s Fountain | ” | [ 175] |
| Mouth of Wady Kelt | ” | [ 178] |
| Map | ” | [ xii] |
MAP OF THE COUNTRY EAST AND WEST OF THE JORDAN