Sunday, 20th, four A. M. Land at length seen on starboard quarter, which proved to be Long Island: the sun arose and brought with it a day and breezes the most favorable, under which we ranged along the coast of the Island, at about seven miles' distance, having a view of it which imagination made delightful. Various schooners, brigs, and other shipping are in view, working [17] different ways, and our recent alarms are forgotten in the beauty and grandeur of the scene.
Before night we passed Sandy Hook, were boarded by a pilot, who took us up the Bay about six miles and then cast anchor for the night: once more then surrounded by land, the outline of which was indistinctly seen by the aid of an azure sky thickly studded with stars, we at length retired to rest, and undisturbed by noise slept profoundly.
21st. The ship dropped anchor again opposite the Quarantine ground, where it was necessary to undergo an examination of the births previous to obtaining permission to gain the much desired Port. A party of us took this opportunity to go on shore, and after seven weeks' confinement to enjoy again a walk on land. We procured clams, oysters, milk, new bread, &c. loaded with which we returned well pleased on board. The houses here are chiefly frames covered with boards, having lean-to sheds roofed like the houses with shingles, the best being made of cedar; under these sheds the inhabitants sit and enjoy the cool breezes, unannoyed by the scorching rays of the sun: cherry and peach are the principal trees around these dwellings, except the weeping-willow and formal Lombardy poplar; these last one would suppose the least likely [18] to be cultivated in a country where shade is more a necessary comfort than to be called a luxury.
This morning in working up to the Quarantine ground, we passed a schooner, or rather the remains of one (for it was a mere wreck,) which had suffered in one of those black squalls that had passed over us; she had only a stump of a mast left, to which her remaining sail was tied.
22d. After some difficulty in obtaining the permit for our departure from the Quarantine hospital, (which the filthy state of several of the steerage births amply justified,) we at length weighed anchor for the last time, with a favourable and light breeze, affording leisure to admire the beautiful surrounding scenery of the Bay, and soon brought-to off the city of New York;—an officer of the customs came on board; he appeared a very respectable man, and behaved very politely to the passengers; at the same time was strict in his duty and superior to a bribe.[4] Our fees at the custom-house on clearing were altogether half a dollar and twenty [19] cents: on leaving England we had paid the Captain for doing the same for us three pounds. This was probably good pay for the trouble, and indeed I should recommend every passenger not to be above managing this affair for himself, if he values money.
23d. The heat of the weather in the city is so oppressive to English constitutions, that we have established ourselves across the river, on the Jersey shore, at a very pleasant place called Hoboken;—here we pay 7$ per week each, for board and lodging, and have a quick and pleasant communication with New York by steam ferry-boats every hour during the day to and from it.
On entering our present boarding-house to inquire their terms, &c. we encountered the first striking specimen of the effects of freedom without refinement; upon asking for the Landlord, a young woman who was sweeping the floor slip-shod, desired us to walk into a room she pointed to; where, she said, we might wait for further orders!! We did as we were ordered, reflecting on this contrast to a good English inn where, upon the traveller's arrival, from the Landlord down to "Boots,"[5] all are immediately [20] upon the alert ready and willing to attend to your wishes.
One reason for this want of attention in the American servants is, that they are paid wholly by their employers, and expect no compensation from their guests; though, I have since seen enough to convince me that this praiseworthy custom is gradually wearing away, and that in general the servants will not refuse a fee when offered.
Called at a working cutler's near the post-office, to purchase a pocket knife; he asked two dollars for one which in London would be sold for about four shillings; said he paid rent for his shop alone 400$, and that fuel cost him during the winter seven shillings sterling per week.
The Americans at New York have not made a favourable impression upon me: almost every face expresses the game of desperate speculation. I am told that this is owing to the general distress of mercantile affairs consequent to the late war with England; and also the effects of the French revolution, felt upon both continents, but in a much higher degree in America, as that country was less able to bear up against it;—the people here like those of England were beyond measure extravagant under the deceitful prosperity, and they now doubly feel the dreadful re-action. Besides, like ancient Rome, here is the asylum of [21] the desperate and discontented of all nations:—Will the period arrive when, like the former, this modern Rome shall rule mistress of the globe? It is, if I may venture to judge, at all events very distant; they must first gain the necessary qualities for the attainment of such an elevation; at present, of these they are nearly destitute. But to return to my journal.