Let us now take a view of this interesting colony. The site is obviously well chosen on a good soil, rather elevated, and at a sufficient distance from the low grounds near the river for [129] the advantage of a healthy air: the streets are of spacious width crossing each other at right angles, and lined with Lombardy poplars: the houses, which at leisure are to be replaced by others of more durable materials, are at present log cottages of a pleasing picturesque plan, and very neatly thatched; to each is attached a garden, a yard, a shed, and out-house for the cow and other purposes, the whole having an air of great comfort. Near the inn in a square open space stands the church, which, though formed of wood and boarded, is a handsome large building. On one side this square is the house of the pastor, the materials of good brick. It is large, and finished in the best style of workmanship. Of the same material they have also built a spacious store which contains articles of grocery, hardware, and indeed every thing that the inhabitants of the surrounding country require, and with these it seemed to carry on great business: this store is guarded with close iron-barred windows, and its general appearance corresponding, I inquired what occasion they had for a prison? This caution is no compliment to the honesty of the settlers around. A large steam mill is at work constantly, where they grind corn, card wool, saw boards, &c.: they have also thrashing machines of great power and indeed [130] a vast variety of other machinery; they dye cloth pretty well: there are buildings ample for school instruction, and in short, (for, to enumerate every thing would require a long residence among them,) they seem to possess every comfort. The vines were loaded with beautiful ripe grapes both black and white; and they were fast covering the hills of sandy soil in the neighbourhood with new vineyards. It was the Indian-corn harvest, and the young women and children, standing in a large circle, were employed in stripping off the leaves and throwing the cobs into baskets, which the men carried into the barns on willing shoulders. We contemplated this scene with much pleasure and then proceeded to take a view of the country around the settlement; which we found cleared to great extent, and sown with wheat looking luxuriantly and promising abundance.
The whole here described, and probably much more might escape observation, has been effected in the short period of five years and a half!—They may fairly take for their motto vis unita fortior, for they have accomplished wonders by it; far more than money could have effected with mercenary workmen, and far better too, for here is no interest to deceive the employer; they work for themselves. But, though inclined, [131] I must not dilate upon this fascinating principle which seems to strike at the root of most if not all of the moral evils of society; heartily hoping that its practicability may stand the test, and prove its sterling character, I shall therefore take leave of the subject with a few more observations, which will end what I have to say respecting this quiet industrious people. They keep no accompts of the several branches of their industry;—an annual taking of stock is all they think necessary; which is done in order to know the extent of their resources, and that they may be able to calculate their sufficiency to the wants for the year.
There was, I must confess after all, a dull sameness pervading the place, which I am willing to attribute rather to the phlegmatic German character than to their institutions. There is too, a depression of spirit which hangs about every man, far removed from the country which gave him birth, from those early scenes of childhood upon which his eye first rested with delight, and from those friends "he ne'er shall see again." Expatriated communities, like plants removed from the seed bed, for awhile sicken; but if planted in a genial soil they in time take firm root, again spread abroad their leaves, and flourish.
[132] Music they have, for we heard a grand pianoforte well played; they may have other instruments and also other amusements though I saw none; and their language, which I did not understand, precluded conversation, for no one, except my host of the tavern, not even M. Rapp, spoke English or French. The women, to use the phrase of a polite man, are the least handsome I ever beheld: the Colony therefore may possibly not be much disturbed by female intrigues, and thus be free from one other great cause of embroilment among mankind. To conclude my observations, they seem according to their own ideas a happy people; and did they possess a little more liveliness, more polish, and talk English one might have lived among them, which is more than I felt inclined to do in any other society we met with.
October 3d. We were now considerably above four thousand miles from home. It was the original intention that we should winter at Vincennes, on which account various necessaries had been sent from Philadelphia as well as brought with us; but I had already nearly seen enough, and having been informed, also judging from what I had seen,
(Of hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent river banks
———Morasses vast and desarts idle,
Rough quarries, rocks, and hills whose heads touch heaven;)
[133] that the roads of Indiana were seldom passable for wheels in the spring of the year, and not until the beginning of summer, I began to think that a winter and following spring passed in the western country, might leave the choice of a winter passage home or the further delay of another year; which would be too long a detainer from old England: and we therefore entertained thoughts of getting back before winter to one of the eastern ports, whence, if necessary, we might embark at any time during the winter, or otherwise to stay till spring. Not to lose time and fair weather therefore, in getting back to Vincennes to make arrangements for the return, we quitted the interesting Colony of Harmony early in the morning; having to drive thirty miles to Princetown[44] the nearest station. Throughout the whole of my journey, though sometimes at a loss, I was fortunate enough not once to lose the way; a circumstance partly owing to being very particular in noting directions whenever they could be obtained—a plan that cannot be too strongly recommended to travellers through difficult countries. Let them not be content with directions from one individual, but ask every one they may meet; I have often had cause to repent confidently passing a person, and within half a mile after have found myself in uncertainty: this [134] was the case on leaving Harmony after obtaining what we thought full directions; but people who know a country are hardly ever sufficiently circumstantial to a stranger.
In a few miles we passed in the midst of the forest a solitary meeting-house, and soon after met several respectable looking people on horseback in their Sunday clothes coming to it. We were this day probably beholden to our fire-arms for safety; and though many travellers do not carry them, I strongly recommend all those who have any property not to omit it. A ruffian-looking fellow had introduced himself to me at Harmony, under pretence of shewing a note which he had received, he said, above thirty miles westward, and which proving to be a forgery he must go back to exchange. He wanted much to be informed of my route, but this of course I avoided telling, and thought no more of him; but to-day, instead of going back as he had said, we suddenly saw him riding after us upon a wretched horse, and he soon passed with such a dogged look that I had no doubt on my mind of his intentions, which were the more confirmed by his stopping afterwards frequently and looking about and at us. So we got under arms; I placing the rifle between my legs as I drove, and the pistols at my side: he evidently wavered [135] in his resolution, apprehensive that more people might be near on their way to the meeting, and perhaps not liking our number. We soon came up with him, however, at a log-hut, where he was fortifying with whiskey; and as we marched past we took care he should see we were prepared: he looked hard, but before we were out of sight struck off in another direction and we saw him no more.
Slept at Princetown; where there was found nothing more important to note than a tolerable good inn, and some blackberry wine of my host's own manufacture, for a bottle of which he had the conscience to charge a dollar, and "by the light of the moon" next evening we got safe back to Vincennes, and found those of our party left there during this expedition all well. From this pleasant town we made short excursions in the neighbourhood, and a week passed in irresolution whether to winter or to attempt the return at this season; for various were the representations and advice upon the subject: among the inducements to stay there is plenty of shooting of all kinds, the place is healthy, and we had the offer of a furnished house.—If the reader has been called upon to act under circumstances where the pros and cons have been so equally balanced, that it seemed not possible to refer the affair to the [136] decision of the judgment,—perhaps he has tossed up. I did not, but I resolved to go: and having once determined, the necessary arrangements were soon made; the baggage waggon and its contents to a considerable value were intrusted to the honour and honesty of a Vincennes merchant,[45] and with my dearborn, and luckily all the four horses, on the 11th October, I commenced my retreat. I intended to take the same route homeward as far as Zanesville, (Ohio,) and from thence by a northerly course to Lake Erie, proceed to the Falls of Niagara, then to Albany and down the north river to New York; but the lateness of the season afterwards induced me reluctantly to alter the plan, and to return through Maryland.
In retracing our steps we shall not have occasion for much observation, until we take new ground on entering the State of Maryland.