The shepherd’s dog of any of the breeds we have mentioned, has a natural inclination for working among sheep, but he may be spoiled by improper management, and then he becomes an enemy to the flock instead of a protector. A cross between the mastiff, bull dog or cur, and the shepherd’s dog, produces a mongrel which has an insatiate thirst for the blood of the sheep, and can scarcely be restrained from destroying them. The shepherd’s dog should be full blood, anything less is worse than useless. Dogs even of the best breeds may be spoiled by neglect or mismanagement in the training. The shepherd must himself treat the sheep with gentleness if he desires the dog to do so; the dog will act as his master does.
CHAPTER IX.
SPORTING DOGS AND THEIR MANAGEMENT AND TRAINING.
The pointer and the setter are the two universally recognized dogs for hunting game birds. As to which of the two is the better variety authorities differ, and much depends upon circumstances. For hot climates the pointer has more endurance than the setter, but he is also more tender and would suffer in a cold climate. Pointers do not require so careful training, and with sportsmen who are, as is the case with many, loose in their manner of training, a pointer will be a passably well behaved dog where, with the same laxity, a setter would be utterly worthless. As the value of a dog in hunting depends in such a great degree upon his proper understanding of the work in hand, and his prompt and faithful execution of the duties incumbent upon him, too much pains cannot be taken with his training.
PRELIMINARY TRAINING.
The education of sporting dogs should begin in earliest puppyhood. Unless they are early taught obedience, it will be difficult to overcome this neglect by after training. His first lesson may be given with the aid of a piece of beef placed before him on a plate. Naturally he will evince an eagerness to obtain it. Prevent his doing so, by gently tapping him upon the head, at the same time cry, “toho!” By repeating this word each time you check his eagerness, he is taught to associate the slap with the word and to stop when the word is used. This makes the “point.” In a few moments after you must cry, “hie on,” and allow him to seize the meat. “Steady” is the next lesson, and consists in allowing him slowly to approach the plate as you keep repeating the word at short intervals. When near the plate cry, “toho,” and never allow him to reach the meat until you give the command, “hie on!” When you wish him to break his point but not to “pitch in” to the meat, the command, “close on” should be used. Before he reaches the plate, cry, “toho,” and then, “hie on;” when he has pointed, by “close on” he must understand that he is to move cautiously, and this he is taught by the oft repeated command of “steady.” All these commands may be taught with patience, and patience is absolutely necessary. No harshness should be used, and no new lesson should be attempted until the old one is fully mastered. You should always feed the dog yourself.
When the preceding lessons are thoroughly acquired, “charge” may be taught. Gently force him down as you give the command, extend his fore paws and gently place his head between them. Each time he moves, tap him lightly and repeat the command. No more force should be used than is absolutely requisite. Practice him frequently by crying, “charge—charge,” with your hand upraised, and forcing him into the desired position. To make him rise, you should cry, “hie up,” and gently raise him. Repeat these instructions until they are fully understood and readily obeyed, doing a little each day, but doing that thoroughly.
To retrieve is the next lesson to be taught. An old glove or other soft substance should be used, and after allowing the pup to play with it, toss it from you and he will rush to get it. Call him to you after he has got it, and take it from him, rewarding him with caresses and kind words. Repeat this plan using the command, “hie fetch,” when you wish him to go, and “come in,” when you wish him to return. By using the command, “come in,” on all occasions when he is a little distance from you—when you call him to feed him—etc., he will learn to obey it. Hooper in his excellent work[[1]] gives the following directions for teaching a dog to retrieve: “Begin by placing your glove within his mouth, making him retain it; if he rejects it, replace it, gently correcting him, crying, ‘fetch! fetch!’ After he understands the meaning of the word fetch you may let him accompany you in a walk, in some quiet place. Whenever he drops the glove you must gently and encouragingly replace it, crying, ‘fetch! fetch!’ If he rejects it the lash must be used, but sparingly. If you study the disposition of your dog and manage properly, he will soon perfectly understand you, and gaily and happily gambol alongside of you, seldom dropping his charge, and if he should, he will only need the words, ‘hie fetch! fetch!’ to make him bound back with eagerness to regain the lost glove. You may now take the glove, cast it from you, and tell him to ‘hie, fetch!’ He will immediately return with the glove. You may now let him see you drop the glove, walk off thirty or forty yards, wave your hand in the direction of the glove, and cry, ‘hie, fetch!’ He will of course regain the glove. After practising him at this often, you may drop the glove unobserved by him. He will soon follow your track for a considerable distance for a lost article, by receiving the command, ‘hie, fetch!’ You may now give the glove to another person to hide, first permitting the dog to see it in his possession, and he will be almost certain to find it, if it is at all accessible. In your first lessons be careful to place the glove where your dog will be certain to find it—not too far off.”
[1]. Dog and Gun.—Price thirty cents, post paid. An interesting and useful work for every amateur sportsman.
THE SETTER.